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Mont Blanc du Tacul Climber's Log

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bruno baschungclassical training peak  Sucess!

bruno baschung

Climbed several times, a classical training peak, but mind crevasses.

bruno baschung
Posted Jun 15, 2008 3:20 pm

drorfidnormal route
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2003


got altitude sickness on the shoulder (4100), always acclimatize !
Posted Apr 3, 2008 7:18 am

ModiNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006


Normal route from Aiguille du Midi.Two hours and 45 mins.to get to the top in a perfect July monrning.
Posted Mar 2, 2008 6:47 am

GriffithsNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007


Summit reached in excellent conditions late evening, bivi on ridge conditions deteriorated next morning
Posted Jul 17, 2007 12:46 pm

DigitisNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006
Easy route from Aig du Midi
Posted Jul 12, 2007 5:36 pm

Fabrice.RimlingerNormql Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2007


Deep snow and avalanche risks. Great but short weather window.
Posted Jul 12, 2007 10:13 am

DoJonormal route  Sucess!


due to bad weather (thunderstorm) only normal route (Jul.1995)
Posted May 19, 2007 2:35 pm

NikmanNormal Route (ski-mountaineering)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2006


We were on a schedule to go to Grand Combin, but a car accident drove us back and we couldn´t reach Panossiere-hut the day it was planned. We changed our plan short in time and drove over to Chamonix and took the first cable car to Ag. du Midi the next morning. Then we forced our bodies up to Mont Blanc du Tacul without acclimatisation. What a torture. It was very cold that day and we didn´t make it back in time to the cable car, so we had to sleep one night in Ref. Cosmique before returning next morning after.
Great panorama for mountaineering. Easy access because of cable car.
Posted May 6, 2007 5:59 pm

tonellophotographyNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2003


Normal route, from Aiguille du Midi.
Posted Apr 21, 2007 6:15 am

climbxclimbNormal Route, solo from Aiguille du Midi cable car
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006


Easy route good for acclimatization and training.
Posted Apr 11, 2007 2:32 pm

thegoldengriffNormal Route from the Cosmiques Hut  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 17, 2007


Set out late from the Cosmiques hut (9 o'clock in the morning) to tool around on the ice and decided on a whim to take advantage of the good weather and climb the normal route. Cold and clear all morning. Gorgeous views of Mt Blanc and Chamonix below.
Posted Mar 25, 2007 3:28 pm

tphubbardOn way up MB  Sucess!


Climbed to summit on the way way up MB. Would like to climb the Supercouloir one day.
Posted Jan 28, 2007 3:42 pm

KRZYSnormal route from col du midi  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006


Easy and no to long route. Beauty 4000-peak. (nice vives on the Mont Blanc Group and nort face Mont Maudit)
Posted Sep 1, 2006 4:50 pm

MichaelJSome nice mixed route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2006


Not exactly sure what we climbed. Perhaps Contamine Mazeud. We soloed up neve/ice past the shrund and climbed under some seracs before crossing right to a rock band, then more ice, more rock and finally a great mixed pitch up to the high snowfield on the shoulder and thence the slog to the summit. Climbed with Silvio. Lots of fun.
Posted Aug 22, 2006 6:41 pm

Jeroen VelsRoute Climbed: Gervasutti Pillar  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2006

Jeroen Vels

Climbed the pillar, by a lot of harder variations. It took us 24 (!) hours without a break.
See also my website here.
Posted Jul 30, 2006 8:40 pm

Joerg MarretschNormal Route from Col du Midi  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2006

Joerg Marretsch

No wind, dry and very hot. I need 3 hours from Rifuge de Cosmiques.
Posted Jul 9, 2006 10:53 am

ValthoSkiing down the Tacul in June  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2006


After a very noisy night due to people leaving the hut at almost every hour at night, or due to people who were having altitude sickness, we finally left the Cosmique hut at 8.00 o'clock in the morning in good weather and snow conditions. It was quite cold (-10c) but blue sky and 40 cm of fresh snow (it snowed the night before) and that in the beginning of June!! We skinned up to the Tacul in less than 2 hours and than we skied down all the way from 4.200m via the Valle Blanche to the ladders below the Mer de Glace Train station. The conditions on lower parts of the Mer de Glace were not so good anymore (only ice) but it was a great way of coming down the Tacul in June!
People who were trying to climb the Mont Blanc de Tacul on crampons were having a very hard time because they were often until their middle in the snow and there were no tracks yet....
Posted Jun 12, 2006 3:34 pm

bbirtle"Normal" Ski Route
Date Climbed: May 1, 2006


Skis highly recommended... some people with crampons only were having a tough go at the many powdery bits especially. We were having a blast at the powdery bits especially.)

See trip report.

Hazy skies, fine good enough. Good snow making for good skiing. Good friends. Good mountain views. What more can you ask for?
Posted May 1, 2006 10:28 pm

bbirtle"Normal" Ski Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 21, 2006


Quite enjoyable climb and great snow to ski on the way down, but this seems to me a quite objectively dangerous route. There is serac fall danger nearly from the start to finish. The terrain is perfect for avalanche danger at 25-35 degrees. Although it didn't seem very dangerous considering the angle, even a small slide would could be deadly as you are constantly traversing above angry ice falls (terrain traps).

All in all not a route I'd recommend, although aside from the two dangers mentioned, no technical difficulties and just sails right up. Good skiing potential!
Posted Apr 21, 2006 2:08 pm

Jeroen VelsContamine-Negri (aka North Couloir)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2003

Jeroen Vels

At the far left end of the Triangle du Tacul is a couloir, the North Couloir. We climbed this route and abseiled down the Triangle (there is no abseil-piste!).
See also my website here.
Posted Mar 28, 2006 2:49 pm

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