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Mont Blanc du Tacul Climber's Log

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NikmanNormal Route (ski-mountaineering)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2006

Nikman

We were on a schedule to go to Grand Combin, but a car accident drove us back and we couldn´t reach Panossiere-hut the day it was planned. We changed our plan short in time and drove over to Chamonix and took the first cable car to Ag. du Midi the next morning. Then we forced our bodies up to Mont Blanc du Tacul without acclimatisation. What a torture. It was very cold that day and we didn´t make it back in time to the cable car, so we had to sleep one night in Ref. Cosmique before returning next morning after.
Great panorama for mountaineering. Easy access because of cable car.
Posted May 6, 2007 5:59 pm

tonellophotographyNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2003

tonellophotography

Normal route, from Aiguille du Midi.
Posted Apr 21, 2007 6:15 am

climbxclimbNormal Route, solo from Aiguille du Midi cable car
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2006

climbxclimb

Easy route good for acclimatization and training.
Posted Apr 11, 2007 2:32 pm

thegoldengriffNormal Route from the Cosmiques Hut  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 17, 2007

thegoldengriff

Set out late from the Cosmiques hut (9 o'clock in the morning) to tool around on the ice and decided on a whim to take advantage of the good weather and climb the normal route. Cold and clear all morning. Gorgeous views of Mt Blanc and Chamonix below.
Posted Mar 25, 2007 3:28 pm

tphubbardOn way up MB  Sucess!

tphubbard

Climbed to summit on the way way up MB. Would like to climb the Supercouloir one day.
Posted Jan 28, 2007 3:42 pm

KRZYSnormal route from col du midi  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2006

KRZYS

Easy and no to long route. Beauty 4000-peak. (nice vives on the Mont Blanc Group and nort face Mont Maudit)
Posted Sep 1, 2006 4:50 pm

MichaelJSome nice mixed route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2006

MichaelJ

Not exactly sure what we climbed. Perhaps Contamine Mazeud. We soloed up neve/ice past the shrund and climbed under some seracs before crossing right to a rock band, then more ice, more rock and finally a great mixed pitch up to the high snowfield on the shoulder and thence the slog to the summit. Climbed with Silvio. Lots of fun.
Posted Aug 22, 2006 6:41 pm

Jeroen VelsRoute Climbed: Gervasutti Pillar  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2006

Jeroen Vels

Climbed the pillar, by a lot of harder variations. It took us 24 (!) hours without a break.
See also my website here.
Posted Jul 30, 2006 8:40 pm

Joerg MarretschNormal Route from Col du Midi  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2006

Joerg Marretsch

No wind, dry and very hot. I need 3 hours from Rifuge de Cosmiques.
Posted Jul 9, 2006 10:53 am

ValthoSkiing down the Tacul in June  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2006

Valtho

After a very noisy night due to people leaving the hut at almost every hour at night, or due to people who were having altitude sickness, we finally left the Cosmique hut at 8.00 o'clock in the morning in good weather and snow conditions. It was quite cold (-10c) but blue sky and 40 cm of fresh snow (it snowed the night before) and that in the beginning of June!! We skinned up to the Tacul in less than 2 hours and than we skied down all the way from 4.200m via the Valle Blanche to the ladders below the Mer de Glace Train station. The conditions on lower parts of the Mer de Glace were not so good anymore (only ice) but it was a great way of coming down the Tacul in June!
People who were trying to climb the Mont Blanc de Tacul on crampons were having a very hard time because they were often until their middle in the snow and there were no tracks yet....
Posted Jun 12, 2006 3:34 pm

bbirtle"Normal" Ski Route
Date Climbed: May 1, 2006

bbirtle

Skis highly recommended... some people with crampons only were having a tough go at the many powdery bits especially. We were having a blast at the powdery bits especially.)

See trip report.

Hazy skies, fine good enough. Good snow making for good skiing. Good friends. Good mountain views. What more can you ask for?
Posted May 1, 2006 10:28 pm

bbirtle"Normal" Ski Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 21, 2006

bbirtle

Quite enjoyable climb and great snow to ski on the way down, but this seems to me a quite objectively dangerous route. There is serac fall danger nearly from the start to finish. The terrain is perfect for avalanche danger at 25-35 degrees. Although it didn't seem very dangerous considering the angle, even a small slide would could be deadly as you are constantly traversing above angry ice falls (terrain traps).

All in all not a route I'd recommend, although aside from the two dangers mentioned, no technical difficulties and just sails right up. Good skiing potential!
Posted Apr 21, 2006 2:08 pm

Jeroen VelsContamine-Negri (aka North Couloir)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2003

Jeroen Vels

At the far left end of the Triangle du Tacul is a couloir, the North Couloir. We climbed this route and abseiled down the Triangle (there is no abseil-piste!).
See also my website here.
Posted Mar 28, 2006 2:49 pm

Jeroen VelsNormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2001

Jeroen Vels

I climbed the mountain severall times by different routes, but this is the one time I reached the actual summit. This time we climbed during the high-season wich was noticable by the very deep tracks you had to follow.
See also my website here.
Posted Mar 28, 2006 2:30 pm

Paddyrocksunrise
Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2005

Paddyrock

camped on the mer du glas for a few days and did three 2 routes. cheree, and a rock route
on one of the satellites
check out the morning sun wow.
Posted Mar 6, 2006 8:51 pm

cedricmtplGabarrou-Albidoni  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 14, 2006

cedricmtpl

a very beautiful goulotte, with my friend gregory vannier a our guide sylvain empereur
Posted Feb 20, 2006 7:39 pm

EQUUSNormal route from Col du Midi Jul of 1989  Sucess!

EQUUS

My first 4000 m mountain after first short experience of Acute Mountain Sickness.
Posted Feb 14, 2006 1:26 am

fdoctorDate Climbed: July 2004  Sucess!

fdoctor

A success within a failure. Set off from the Cosmiques Hut at 4am with Rich Cross, but didn't feel good. This should have been the start of the Trois Blancs but only did Tacul and returned to the Cosmique exhausted. Next day discovered I've got two broken ribs from a fall on Aiguille Du Moine, no wonder I was struggling!
Posted Jan 15, 2006 9:01 am

am89Route Climbed: Normal- up the the Tacul face Date Climbed: July 6th, 2005  Sucess!

am89

We left early in the morning reached the summit from the Aiguille du Midi in under 2 hours, very windy on the shoulder. With no time to eat on the summit and a fierce storm coming from Italy we hurried back down. Reached Aiguille du Midi before 12 PM, lightning started shortly thereafter. First time climbing the Tacul, relatively easy, part of a preparation for the Mont Blanc.
Posted Sep 27, 2005 9:44 pm

TodoVerticalRoute Climbed: Normal (Guiding) Date Climbed: Some day of July 2005  Sucess!

TodoVertical

Nice day !! It was 13 of us in the summit that day.
Posted Sep 22, 2005 3:03 pm

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