Mont Blanc Climber's Log
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|athpal||Route Climbed: Dome du Gouter Date Climbed: 19 August 1999|
|We reached the summit via the nowadays normal route. It took us 2 days with bad weather and strong winds (42 km/h) in the beginning but good in the last hours of the summit day. For our descent we followed the same route and we arrived in Chamonix the evening.|
|Posted Jul 25, 2003 8:58 am|
|edouet||Route Climbed: Dome du Gouter Date Climbed: 17 June 2003|
|My first 4000 in the Alpes . Training in the Pyrenees helped me to acclimatize ( a lot of climbers feel AMS, some don't leave the Hut at 3800 m ) .|
Easy walk from the Eagle's Nest to Tete Rousse .
Then, a long scramble on rocks until the Refuge du Gouter ( be careful in the Couloir, and just below the refuge, when stones are covered by a thin layer of ice ) .
The second day : almost 4 hours in the wind, the clouds, a bit of snow, and eventually the mist when reaching the summit ridge .
Be patient ( and lucky ), and after a few minutes, the mist will vanish . Just smile the way we did, me and my friends from Ales ( we're French ), breathe, take pictures, look all around you, breathe again...
Back at the Refuge Vallot, we could not believe we had climbed that steep ridge . Sometimes, it's good to climb at night and not to see well what you have to face !
It's a wonderful summit to climb, even if you're not French nor Italian .
|Posted Jul 23, 2003 12:02 pm|
|Josh||Route Climbed: Classic through Aig. De Gouter Date Climbed: Aug 2002|
|I was climbed with my girl-friend.|
It is very long but not so dificult route:
Les-Houches->Bellevue->Tete Rousse -> Aig.De Gouter->Mont-Blanc summit.
Climbing Gear: crampons and rope 20 meters between climbers. Reccomend plastic boots because
it is very cold on the route at 2 a.m.
I wish to all climbers a nice weather and successful climbing.
|Posted Jul 17, 2003 3:10 pm|
|vbeckman74||Route Climbed: Aiguille du Midi Date Climbed: July 2003|
|We left Cosmique at 0220 behind the fire trail. Perfect weather. We reached the summit in 12 hours. This is due to a hold up at the technical portion on Maudit. It bottle necks pretty bad. We were there 3 hours. Guides who come up behind you will push their way through. You have to be aggressive. My partner also had bad AMS. I recommend leaving Cosmique at 0300 or 0400. You'll miss the line at Maudit and go right up. Of 30 starters, about 15 made the summit. Many turned back because the distance and altitude gain was more than they had anticipated. It was beautiful. A must in the Alps.|
|Posted Jul 7, 2003 9:45 am|
|eugeneowen||Route Climbed: Aiguille du Midi, Tacul, Maudit Date Climbed: 27 June 2003|
|5 hours 50 minutes to the top (hut to summit) in tough conditions. Strong winds all the way but almost no wind on top! The steep ice at the top of Maudit was the most challenging bit.|
|Posted Jun 30, 2003 2:05 am|
|Lud||Route Climbed: Gouter normal Date Climbed: August 1998|
|After the the unsuccesful attempt of 1997 (bad weather), this year we ignored the us of cablecar, and started for Les Houches. We spent the first night in the filthy hut at appr. 2750m, and the next in the Gouter Hut.|
On the summit day we got up early and reached the peak in the morning hours.
|Posted Jun 13, 2003 6:33 am|
|johan||Route Climbed: Aiguille du Midi, via Tacul, Maudit Date Climbed: 2002-08-17|
|Went to the top of Mont Blanc for the second time but this time I started frmo from Aiguille du Midi, via Tacul, and Mont Maudit. |
Went together with Thomas Nederman who unfortunately never made it to the top due to altitude sickness.
The walk / climb took 26h which is far to long but hey... The top was reached!
We started 1am on Saturday morning and I was at the summit 17.15pm. When we were back to the tent the time was 3.10am on Sunday morning. People were wondering what we were doing walking downwards in that hour instead of upwards.
PS. More pictures can be seen here:
|Posted Mar 19, 2003 5:09 am|
|everesttim||Route Climbed: Gouter Route Date Climbed: 26th July 2002|
|Having been stuck on the Gouter ridge for a couple of days in a horrendous strom two years earlier i was back to climb Mt Blanc. With a really good weather window we climbed over three days. The first day took us up to a camp point high above the Eagles Nest. The second up to the Gouter ridge with an awesome sunset high above the clouds. The third was summit day, which was a little disappointing as we thought the route would take longer. Myself and a friend were so well acclimatised, having been out in Chamonix for a month, we summited when it was still dark and that included a half and hour stop on the way up. So if you are fit and well acclimatised don't leave the Gouter ridge until 2am, we left at 12:30!|
Bit dodgy as on the way down as there were many clients being hauled up by their guides not looking where they were going!
A great route to tell your friends you've done but spend any length of time in the Alps and other routes will stick more firmly in your memory.
|Posted Feb 27, 2003 9:43 am|
|theis||Route Climbed: Normal route Tete rousse-aguille de gouter Date Climbed: 14/7/02|
|Perfect climb in two days|
|Posted Feb 26, 2003 5:34 am|
|Charles Garrett||Route Climbed: Tete Rousse, Gouter Date Climbed: September 2000|
|Climbed with Mole, Bayntun and Christoph. Last good day of the season - motorway conditions. But given crowds on the way up, remarkably few people on the summit. Arrived at 0720; sun rose at 0726. Spectacular sight.|
|Posted Dec 6, 2002 9:43 am|
|TodoVertical||Route Climbed: Three Mont Blanc Date Climbed: Aug. 10th 1997|
|Starting as early as 2:00 in the morning. Summit around 9:00 o´clock. We were a party of three, Mario. Jesús and myself.|
|Posted Dec 4, 2002 12:23 pm|
|kullaberg||Route Climbed: gouter Date Climbed: summer 91|
|after taking a group of (non-paying) clients to the summit we saw a handful of climbers being pummeled by a huge rockfall in that nasty big gully below the gouter hut. we had just run across it with our hearts pounding and was safe under an overhang when it did its thing. worst part of that route for sure. don't linger there!!|
|Posted Nov 28, 2002 5:38 pm|
|kullaberg||Route Climbed: traverse from midi to summit and down grand mulets Date Climbed: aug 90|
|almost killed when a moraine collapsed and obliterated the trail low down before the midi middle station. had to hurl myself under a shallow rock with the ground trembling from the slide. swallowed a pound of dust but was unharmed. third time i've had a close call from rock fall in the hot and dry summers of todays mountains.|
|Posted Nov 28, 2002 5:32 pm|
|kullaberg||Route Climbed: gouter route, traverse to midi Date Climbed: june 88|
|met two american guys at snells who really wanted to bag m.b.|
after shopping for some crampons etc for them, we did a super enjoyable ascent and traverse to the cable car on midi.
|Posted Nov 28, 2002 5:18 pm|
|kullaberg||Route Climbed: grand mulets Date Climbed: apr 88|
|ski tour. great conditions. first time on m.b|
|Posted Nov 28, 2002 5:14 pm|
|richardpattison||Route Climbed: Gouter Route Date Climbed: Thursday 10th August 2000|
|Climbed with my Dad and French guide Yannich. Fantastic week climbing around Chamonix and culminating in Mont Blanc. We summitted at 6am on my Dad'd birthday, what a great present.|
|Posted Nov 21, 2002 7:30 am|
|Brice Neugebauer||Route Climbed: Traverse - UP Gouter DOWN Three Mont Blanc Date Climbed: 5 July 2001|
|Climbed this in the summer of 2001 - Excellent weather, and overall a good climb, although it was awfully crowded. Check out www.geocities.com/spaceman_neil for the details|
|Posted Nov 15, 2002 9:27 am|
|Samuli Mansikka||Route Climbed: Three Mont Blanc Date Climbed: June 2002|
|Climbed the "Three Mont Blanc" in early june 2002. Mont Blanc du Tacul through Triangle/North face. Camped below the summit and made it the next morning. After that the Mont Maudit. Camped between the summits of Maudit and Blanc and summitted Mont Blanc the next day. Descended through the normal route and walked down to Chamonix because of the missed cable car!|
|Posted Nov 3, 2002 12:14 pm|
|7summits||Route Climbed: Traverse: gouter route up, 3 montblanc route down Date Climbed: 29-august2002|
|5 years after my first ascent I went back for the Mt Blanc traverse.|
Leaving Chamonix the 28 in the morning, Marian and I reached the overcrowded Gouter hut in the afternoon.
(noticed that the 'bowling alley' was gone! No more snow in the gully, but still plenty of rocks sizzling down due to careless climbers on the ridge...)
We left at 0300 and summited around 0800. The night was beautiful, clear and cold, a half-moon, no headlights needed.
The summit was crowded and cold, but the view still amazing.
Down the NE face, great stepping down soft snow. The Mur de Cote was a bit icy, but the main obstacle was again the Mont Maudit. 5 years ago it was a 40m 40 degrees downclimn, now it was 70m 70 degrees... We downclimbed and abseiled together with a couple of nice Canadians and some other people were very happy they could use our ropes as well...
The bergschrund also was bigger and had to be downclimbed as well, then up to Tacul and in a out half an hour down the 600m face...
through the Col du Midi oven, then the hardest partr: up towards Aiguille du midi, if you are tired, this is a long way up....
|Posted Sep 9, 2002 2:00 am|
|Artoirius||Route Climbed: Dôme du Gouter - Bosses Ridge Date Climbed: 17th of August 2002|
|I did Mont Blanc by tent together with 3 other friends. We started the 15th of August in Les Houches (+/- 800m above sea level). The first day we went by foot to Nid d'Aigle situated at 2 372m, this is where the train ends. There we placed for the first time our tents. The trip is very nice but I had to get used to my backpack (+/- 21kgs).|
The second day we went to the campsite at the Goûter Hut (3 800m). During the day we passed the Tête Rousse hut and the Couloir to ascend to Goûter hut (sometimes rather dangerous).
On the 17th of August we left at about 3.30 AM to go to the summit. Because it is still dark, you can see a sort of "Christmas tree" going up the mountains. When you look down, you see all the tiny lights in the valley and if you look up you see more stars than anyone can imagine, its really marvellous. We reached at about 9.00 AM the summit. This is something I will never forget. I've posted some pictures so anyone can see how nice it is. At around 9.30 AM we started our descent to the Goûter camp site the take our tents and head further to Nid d'Aigle which we reached at about 8.30 PM.
Although I haven't had big conditional problems on the way up, the way down was very hard for me, especially for my upper legs (the backpack, the bumps on your knees,…).
The last day (18th of August) we started very early with our descend to reach Les Houches at 11.00 AM.
I must say that this was may best vacation so far and I hope to do more of this mountains in the (near) future. I recommend everybody to do this mountain by tent, it is a lot harder, but more fun and adventure.
|Posted Sep 6, 2002 10:04 am|