overviewdifference in elevation ~ 1500m
time required : 4 - 6 hours
tiring and not so fine hike in summer (the big channel before the beginning of the glacier is made of stones)
classic and very fine ski-mountaneering trip in spring (end of february-end of may)
Can be compared to Gran Paradiso from Vittorio Emanuele refuge.
One dangerous stretch in the first part, after passing beyond the Hubschhorn ridge.
Approach and accomodation
highway A26 (autostrada dei Trafori) up to Gravellona Toce (toll)
than the SS33 of Simplon Pass
highway A9 [Vallese - Wallis] - Martigny - Sierre - Visp - Brig - Simplon road
so, along the Gotthard or the San Bernardino highway down to Bellinzona - Lugano
A9 Como-Lainate (fork) - A8 for Varese - (E62) Gallarate-Gattico then A26
SIMPLON HOSPICE is cheap and the best solution for the route that needs a early in the morning start
From Simplon Hospiz reach the great stones under NW Hübschhorn's ridge (point 2354m - CNS 1289/1309 - 1:10.000), crossing regular steps direction W.
Go further crossing down few meters and turn E to cross a couloir (35°), then less step direction SE.
About at 2800m (under Homattupass 2867m) turn left full East toward Breithornpass 3355m (3,30h).
From Breithornpass you can see the Monte Leone's summit and the last part of the route: the SW ridge.
Cross down few meters to Alpjergletcher, toward a notch (3320m), on the Monte Leone's SW ridge (ski-depot).
Alomng the easy ridge that passing some exposed passages gives access to the summit (about 6h)
Downhill on the same way.