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Monte Leone from Simplonpass

Monte Leone from Simplonpass

Monte Leone from Simplonpass

Page Type: Route

Location: Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.24460°N / 8.08220°E

Object Title: Monte Leone from Simplonpass

Route Type: Mountaineering, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: S3 ski de rando

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: mamo

Created/Edited: Jun 10, 2004 / Feb 24, 2011

Object ID: 161204

Hits: 3509 

Page Score: 72.83%  - 3 Votes 

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difference in elevation ~ 1500m
time required : 4 - 6 hours

tiring and not so fine hike in summer (the big channel before the beginning of the glacier is made of stones)
Monte Leone
Monte Leone

classic and very fine ski-mountaneering trip in spring (end of february-end of may)
Can be compared to Gran Paradiso from Vittorio Emanuele refuge.
One dangerous stretch in the first part, after passing beyond the Hubschhorn ridge.
Skiing down from...

Approach and accomodation

  • from Italy :
    highway A26 (autostrada dei Trafori) up to Gravellona Toce (toll)
    than the SS33 of Simplon Pass

  • from W Switzerland and France :
    highway A9 [Vallese - Wallis] - Martigny - Sierre - Visp - Brig - Simplon road

  • from Deutschland and Eastern Switzerland : you better pass through Italy
    so, along the Gotthard or the San Bernardino highway down to Bellinzona - Lugano
    A9 Como-Lainate (fork) - A8 for Varese - (E62) Gallarate-Gattico then A26

    SIMPLON HOSPICE is cheap and the best solution for the route that needs a early in the morning start

    Route Description


    From Simplon Hospiz reach the great stones under NW Hübschhorn's ridge (point 2354m - CNS 1289/1309 - 1:10.000), crossing regular steps direction W.

    Go further crossing down few meters and turn E to cross a couloir (35°), then less step direction SE.
    About at 2800m (under Homattupass 2867m) turn left full East toward Breithornpass 3355m (3,30h).

    From Breithornpass you can see the Monte Leone's summit and the last part of the route: the SW ridge.
    Cross down few meters to Alpjergletcher, toward a notch (3320m), on the Monte Leone's SW ridge (ski-depot).
    Alomng the easy ridge that passing some exposed passages gives access to the summit (about 6h)

    Downhill on the same way.

    Essential Gear

    Normal gletcher's materials ( axes ,rope ...)

    Miscellaneous Info



    Monte Leone from...getting the summit of Breithornthe Breithorn passMonte LeoneMonte LeoneMonte LeoneSimplon Pass