travelin_light - Aug 29, 2006 8:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2006
Climbed North Face
Very fun climbing on ice face. Make sure to pick the correct exit or you get traverse across alot of loose rock/soil with no protection worth talking about.
Shano - Aug 28, 2006 8:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2006
I have tried this peak 3 times, and as per my low Canadian success level I have yet to find good {acceptable} conditions. I look forward to trying again soon
Climbed north ridge and silverhorn. Both good routes, north ridge a little loose and suffers from rock fall. A good alternative to this route is the north face/north ridge combination.
My main hill when I'm in Canada; this mountain is usually my destination when heading to the Columbia Icefield area. I have trip reports on my personal site. See photos of the trips on my Trip Reports on climbwild.net/:
First 10k ft + hike, I hired a private mountain guide since I was alone and did not want to take any risk.. It was a good decision.. Everything went well.. This mountain was the closest to mountaineering that I did.
Route Climbed: Silver Horn Date Climbed: August, 2003
Little A glacier was in good shape. Crevasses presented themselves in the open and the snow bridges seemed to be solid. There are much less objectionable hazards dealing with the more strenuous 1000'+ of ice on Silverhorn then the North Glacier hump below the seracs. You clear the col right below Silverhorn and then proceed straight up the main rib to the right. Once on the Silverhorn summit, it is just a ridge walk to the main summit. We did descend the North Glacier route, but moved quickly. There was one fresh ice fall on the route. It does not take long to cross though. The main glacier route itself is straight forward as long as you have decent visibility. It took us less than 5 hours to summit, and 2.5 hours to descend.
Solo ascent of the Silverhorn, Negotiated sheer ice slope as earlier mild temps thawed entire snowcover, Two ice tools were a must, bargained with God the entire way up, descended Normal Route
Route Climbed: North Face Bypass Date Climbed: September 5, 2004
Originally hoped for the North Face. Guided by Barry Blanchard, contact him through Yamnuska Guide Service, he is the best guide I have ever climbed with. We got up into the bowl at the base of the NF, about 20 meters in elevation below the first ice, but Barry felt the entire bowl was unstable after doing avy tests on way up the bowl (it had been heavily slabbed the day before). Weather looked like it was going to crap and we saw party abandoning the Silverthorn. We decided to give it a little bit more of a shot so we dropped down and traversed left. Went up a snow gully that is between the N Ridge and the NF (hence, the NF bypass). This then took us to the upper N Ridge (crappy rock) and then up and over to the summit. Of course as we hit summit ridge (beautiful) the weather cleared and it was clear at the top. We were the only ones on the mountain at this point, awesome! Descended the AA col. The scree on descent sucks, no two ways about it.
Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: September 29, 2003
Super day. 9 hour round trip from the parking lot.
Only two other climbers on the mountain.
Misty clouds in the AM breaking clear by the saddle. Great views of Columbia and Bryce rising above the mists. Boy-howdy coming down on the moraine is hard on the toes and knees.
Route Climbed: AA Col Date Climbed: 1989, 1990, 1995, 1996, 1997, 2002
AA Col
May 26, 2002
Partners: Ken Sands, Jennifer Fry, Kent Bendell, Christine Slider, Chris (female).
6th time I've summitted via AA Col. Perfect weather provided the very best views I've ever had on top: Mts. Columbia, Alberta, Snow Dome, Saskatchewan (forgive mispelling) glacier....
Smooth climb despite 6 on rope...Spokane Mountaineers Mtn School grad climb...I was an instructor again. Snow covered most of the scree on the approach....nice! Fixed ropes for descent as verglas/running water on rock wall beside AA icefall....safer for beginners.
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AA Col
May 25, 1997
Partners: Diane Britton, Dennis Scott, Dave.
5th time I've summitted...was an instructor for the Spokane Mountaineers...Mountain School grad climb.
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AA Col
May 26, 1996
Partners: Ben Shook, Bob Britton, Diane Britton, Brad Blevins.
Bad weather: cold, wind, snow, fog most of the way but we persevered & made it. This was the 4th time I summitted Athabasca via the AA Col (Spokane Mountaineers grad climb; I was an instructor)
After turning back from my 2 previous attempts (May 1991; avalanche risk & May 1993; volunteered to run sweep & brought down ill students), it was a joy to summit for my 3rd time.
Perfect conditions-- a bit too perfect, as it got so warm in the col on the descent. This was Annette's first big peak.
Route Climbed: The North Face Date Climbed: September 16, 1985
Miguel Carmona and I got introduced to the Canadian Rockies while climbing the North Face in 1985. Cought in horrible blizzard high on the face and the fact, that Miguel's brand new X-15 pick bent 90 degrees half way up the exit gully (incorrect heat treatment in the factory), we almost had an epic. But it showed us that mountains are not benign everywhere, just in California. This was a really beautiful mountain climb, one that I will never forget.
travelin_light - Aug 29, 2006 8:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2006
Climbed North FaceVery fun climbing on ice face. Make sure to pick the correct exit or you get traverse across alot of loose rock/soil with no protection worth talking about.
Shano - Aug 28, 2006 8:47 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2006
North Face (right up the middle)climbed w/ Brian Spiewak. Great moderate route
T Sharp - Aug 6, 2006 12:22 am
Standard RouteI have tried this peak 3 times, and as per my low Canadian success level I have yet to find good {acceptable} conditions. I look forward to trying again soon
sobrien - May 20, 2006 4:16 pm
routesClimbed north ridge and silverhorn. Both good routes, north ridge a little loose and suffers from rock fall. A good alternative to this route is the north face/north ridge combination.
climbwild - Apr 15, 2006 6:18 pm
North Glacier, North FaceMy main hill when I'm in Canada; this mountain is usually my destination when heading to the
Columbia Icefield area. I have trip reports on my personal site. See photos of the trips on my climbwild.net/ :
Trip Reports on
For a comprehensive study of this mountain, click on
Michel C - Nov 27, 2005 11:44 pm
Route Climbed: Date Climbed: Spring 1989First 10k ft + hike, I hired a private mountain guide since I was alone and did not want to take any risk.. It was a good decision.. Everything went well.. This mountain was the closest to mountaineering that I did.
tdoughty - Sep 4, 2005 9:59 pm
Route Climbed: North Glacier Date Climbed: August 19854 hr RT, with descent down glacier to west, where I promptly dropped shoulder deep into two crevasses in a fifteen minute time span.
UncleBob - Aug 22, 2005 10:51 pm
Route Climbed: North glacier Date Climbed: August 11, 2004Dry summer conditions, very easy ascent up exposed glacier ice and typical summer snow. Ideal for beginners to alpine.
Dow Williams - May 10, 2005 12:20 am
Route Climbed: Silver Horn Date Climbed: August, 2003Little A glacier was in good shape. Crevasses presented themselves in the open and the snow bridges seemed to be solid. There are much less objectionable hazards dealing with the more strenuous 1000'+ of ice on Silverhorn then the North Glacier hump below the seracs. You clear the col right below Silverhorn and then proceed straight up the main rib to the right. Once on the Silverhorn summit, it is just a ridge walk to the main summit. We did descend the North Glacier route, but moved quickly. There was one fresh ice fall on the route. It does not take long to cross though. The main glacier route itself is straight forward as long as you have decent visibility. It took us less than 5 hours to summit, and 2.5 hours to descend.
captainwho - Mar 20, 2005 1:33 am
Route Climbed: Silverhorn Date Climbed: July 2004Solo ascent of the Silverhorn, Negotiated sheer ice slope as earlier mild temps thawed entire snowcover, Two ice tools were a must, bargained with God the entire way up, descended Normal Route
Pawel Krol - Mar 3, 2005 12:49 pm
Route Climbed: Silverhorn Date Climbed: july 2004Nice, first glacier route
Fuggedaboudit - Dec 29, 2004 5:38 pm
Route Climbed: North Face Bypass Date Climbed: September 5, 2004Originally hoped for the North Face. Guided by Barry Blanchard, contact him through Yamnuska Guide Service, he is the best guide I have ever climbed with. We got up into the bowl at the base of the NF, about 20 meters in elevation below the first ice, but Barry felt the entire bowl was unstable after doing avy tests on way up the bowl (it had been heavily slabbed the day before). Weather looked like it was going to crap and we saw party abandoning the Silverthorn. We decided to give it a little bit more of a shot so we dropped down and traversed left. Went up a snow gully that is between the N Ridge and the NF (hence, the NF bypass). This then took us to the upper N Ridge (crappy rock) and then up and over to the summit. Of course as we hit summit ridge (beautiful) the weather cleared and it was clear at the top. We were the only ones on the mountain at this point, awesome! Descended the AA col. The scree on descent sucks, no two ways about it.
EvilGoodGuy - Jun 26, 2004 2:01 pm
Route Climbed: AA Col Date Climbed: May 24 2004Excellent Climb, 9 hours return.
ant morgan - May 4, 2004 9:01 pm
Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: Sept 2001Climbed under full conditions - snow, wind and whiteout.
Beware of avalanche danger on normal route descent
ant morgan - May 4, 2004 8:57 pm
Route Climbed: Silverhorn Date Climbed: Feb 2000A long, cold winter ascent.
Dan Bailey - Feb 10, 2004 12:02 pm
Route Climbed: n.glacier route (?) Date Climbed: summer 2002what a superb wee mountain
ktnbs - Oct 3, 2003 12:55 am
Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: September 29, 2003Super day. 9 hour round trip from the parking lot.
Only two other climbers on the mountain.
Misty clouds in the AM breaking clear by the saddle. Great views of Columbia and Bryce rising above the mists. Boy-howdy coming down on the moraine is hard on the toes and knees.
Wyoming Bob - Aug 14, 2003 10:05 pm
Route Climbed: Silverhorn Date Climbed: August 3, 200314 hour day on the Silverhorn, multiple bands of blue ice, many ice screws, another party on route, return via Normal Route
Sharon - Jul 22, 2003 10:44 pm
Route Climbed: AA Col Date Climbed: 1989, 1990, 1995, 1996, 1997, 2002AA Col
May 26, 2002
Partners: Ken Sands, Jennifer Fry, Kent Bendell, Christine Slider, Chris (female).
6th time I've summitted via AA Col. Perfect weather provided the very best views I've ever had on top: Mts. Columbia, Alberta, Snow Dome, Saskatchewan (forgive mispelling) glacier....
Smooth climb despite 6 on rope...Spokane Mountaineers Mtn School grad climb...I was an instructor again. Snow covered most of the scree on the approach....nice! Fixed ropes for descent as verglas/running water on rock wall beside AA icefall....safer for beginners.
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AA Col
May 25, 1997
Partners: Diane Britton, Dennis Scott, Dave.
5th time I've summitted...was an instructor for the Spokane Mountaineers...Mountain School grad climb.
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AA Col
May 26, 1996
Partners: Ben Shook, Bob Britton, Diane Britton, Brad Blevins.
Bad weather: cold, wind, snow, fog most of the way but we persevered & made it. This was the 4th time I summitted Athabasca via the AA Col (Spokane Mountaineers grad climb; I was an instructor)
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AA Col
May 28, 1995
Partner: Annette Polastri Briner (my figure skating coach).
After turning back from my 2 previous attempts (May 1991; avalanche risk & May 1993; volunteered to run sweep & brought down ill students), it was a joy to summit for my 3rd time.
Perfect conditions-- a bit too perfect, as it got so warm in the col on the descent. This was Annette's first big peak.
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AA Col
May 27, 1990
Partners: Steve Reynolds, Ken Hill, Steve Trefts.
Steve R. & I announced our engagement & Steve gave me the ring on top!
This was my 2nd ascent of Athabasca via this route...a Spokane Mountaineers grad climb...I did it as an instructor.
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AA Col
May 28, 1989
Partners: Steve Reynolds, Brian Grove, Craig Grossman.
Done with the Spokane Mountaineers (Washington State, USA) as the Grad climb for Mountain School 1989.
asmrz - Nov 16, 2002 7:06 pm
Route Climbed: The North Face Date Climbed: September 16, 1985Miguel Carmona and I got introduced to the Canadian Rockies while climbing the North Face in 1985. Cought in horrible blizzard high on the face and the fact, that Miguel's brand new X-15 pick bent 90 degrees half way up the exit gully (incorrect heat treatment in the factory), we almost had an epic. But it showed us that mountains are not benign everywhere, just in California. This was a really beautiful mountain climb, one that I will never forget.