Dan Winter - Mar 18, 2005 3:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2004
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier. Date Climbed: 7/16/04-7/17/-4
A fun trip in good weather with the Seattle Mountaineers. After being hosed by the weather on previous attempts up the Boulder Glacier and Coleman glacier routes I finally summited this mountain.
Route Climbed: Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: June 1, 2004
Nice climb, but not really technical.
There was A LOT of snow (waist-deep in places), so we had to posthole all the way up, which was sort of painful -- but I perversely enjoyed it ;)
We had a very short window of clear-visibility weather (about 5 hours) during which we made most of the ascent (plus a couple of 1-2 hour windows next day). The rest of the time it was complete or near-complete whiteout (incl. the summit). We had to rope up and mark our way (to avoid getting lost on the way down).
We originally planned to go to the North-West ridge, but did not go there due to the weather conditions.
Route Climbed: Coleman-Upper Demming Glacier Date Climbed: August 2000
Fantastic solo climb, but I didn't even have time to finish my sandwich on the summit because it was instant blizzard time. Too bad the storm was invisible over the ocean, and I must have mistook the first wisps of clouds for an innocent orographic effect. Western sky was clear only 5 minutes before the snow hit. Needless to say, my descent was a bit trickier than the ascent. ~1000 ft below, it was a beautifully calm snowfall.
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: September 5-6, 2004
See Brian Jenkins's entry below. The route was very broken up, but covered with a few inches to a couple feet of new snow. We had to posthole across wind-deposited snow on the summit snow dome. There were some questionable snow bridges and newly covered crevasses. Incredible views -- equal to the best I've seen.
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: September 5, 2004
This climb was the best I have done till date! Thanks to Troy (tnorm) and his friend Sergei for letting us (me and my friend Lu) rope up with them. The route was an amazing zig-zag through a whole maze of crevasses, many of them HUGE. I punched through one of them till my waist, but it wasn't too deep. Sergei and Troy decided to go ahead unroped for the last section (and left us behind) as they thought we were not moving fast enough. It was very windy from 6:00 am till around 8:30 am. We got past the Roman wall when they were returning form the summit. I decided to turn back with them, even though the summit was just 400 ft away. Luckily, the weather stayed stable and we did not have any problems while returning. We had to avoid many of the snow bridges that we had used on our way up as the snow had become mellow by the time we returned. Overall, it was an amazing route with awesome views. Despite not reaching the summit, I consider this climb as a success for me.
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: September 6, 2004
Climbed with David Kantola and Vincenzo Micelli. Bivy sacked it at High Camp on Railroad Grade and started up about 3:20 am summitting a little over 6 hours later. Lots of cool crevasses to weave in and out of. Pretty cold and windy up top, autumn is coming..................
Thanks to David for a great lead and for inviting me along.
Route Climbed: Coleman Headwall, Boulder, Squak-Easton & Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: October 25/26 1980 CH & Multiple Times before and since
With E Sandbo & L Rasmussen -->Coleman Headwall trip report. Camping (when doing the Squak) is below rock out-crop visible on the S slope. Route passes by huge crevasses.
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: August 8, 2004
I climbed Mt. Baker as part of the Alpine Ascents 3-day climb. Our guides (Eric and Eric) were great and made this an easy climb.
After getting drenched coming in on Friday and spending Saturday under the clouds, we were pleasantly surprised to awaken to clear skies early Sunday morning. Spectacular weather and views throughout the day.
Route Climbed: Coleman/Deming Date Climbed: 8/8/2004
Nice day out on the glaciers. Camped at 7,200' on rocky ridge with great views of the route. CD was busy but not out of control. A couple of snow bridges that may not last long, but attentive parties can find alternatives. Roman wall snow was firm and good for cramponing. 1st time on the mountain and it is a beauty.
Route Climbed: Coleman-Deming Glacier Date Climbed: July 31, 2004
This was my first climb as a Mazama member, after having climbed more than 20-yrs. with small groups of friends. It was an excellent experience, with a bunch of good folks, & I look forward to climbing with the Mazamas again! Of course, it was made all the better, by perfect weather!
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: July 27
Spent 6 days on the mountain and had great weather the whole trip. Learned some skills and made the summit with tons of energy to spare I'll try a harder route next time, The Easton Glacier just is not to steep for a hard effort climb, but does offer good training in the glacier envioroment.
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: July 4, 2004
We stripped our equipment down to the barest, lightest possible load for this two-day climb. One tent for the five of us. It had been a relatively warm night, so the Easton Glacier was a little soft the morning of July 4. My colleagues, Scott Patterson, Mark Fowlkes, Clay Parks, Tomas Kellner, and I left our campsite low on the Glacier at around 4 a.m. and reached the summit at roughly 9 a.m. The summit was chilly, windy and only partially sunny. We huddled for a half hour there eating our lunch. Scott and I had climbed this route in August 2001, but we enjoyed revisiting it with our friends. We were all a little tired from our climbs of Shuksan and Rainier earlier in the week. I hope the five of us climb together again in 2005. I can't imagine five people I'd rather spend time with in the mountains. Thanks, gents. Stephane Fitch
Route Climbed: Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: July 19, 2004
My third trip up Baker via Coleman-Deming. Climbed with Courtney (cp0915), his first time on a volcanoe. Thunderstorms and rain at night, woke up to a so-so weather and summit was obscured by clouds. Wind picked up along Pumice Ridge and gusting to 50 mph on summit. Near whiteout and very cold from 9500 feet up. No summit view.
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: June 19, 2004
We did this climb with our friends from the Mazamas. Crappy weather on the approach foreced us to bivy low (~5400') next to the Railroad Grade. 1am start the next morning under clear and calm conditions. Got to summit at 7am. Crowded. Quick photo and a quick upchuck (felt bad for some reason) and we hiked down/out. Headed down to L-worth for some approach-free cragging.
Dan Winter - Mar 18, 2005 3:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2004
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier. Date Climbed: 7/16/04-7/17/-4A fun trip in good weather with the Seattle Mountaineers. After being hosed by the weather on previous attempts up the Boulder Glacier and Coleman glacier routes I finally summited this mountain.
sufferjoy - Mar 18, 2005 9:50 am
Route Climbed: Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: June 1, 2004Nice climb, but not really technical.
There was A LOT of snow (waist-deep in places), so we had to posthole all the way up, which was sort of painful -- but I perversely enjoyed it ;)
We had a very short window of clear-visibility weather (about 5 hours) during which we made most of the ascent (plus a couple of 1-2 hour windows next day). The rest of the time it was complete or near-complete whiteout (incl. the summit). We had to rope up and mark our way (to avoid getting lost on the way down).
We originally planned to go to the North-West ridge, but did not go there due to the weather conditions.
See a photo-report at
http://public.fotki.com/ASK1/mt_baker_2004/
puddlecruiser - Feb 22, 2005 10:32 am
Route Climbed: Coleman-Upper Demming Glacier Date Climbed: August 2000Fantastic solo climb, but I didn't even have time to finish my sandwich on the summit because it was instant blizzard time. Too bad the storm was invisible over the ocean, and I must have mistook the first wisps of clouds for an innocent orographic effect. Western sky was clear only 5 minutes before the snow hit. Needless to say, my descent was a bit trickier than the ascent. ~1000 ft below, it was a beautifully calm snowfall.
plume - Feb 13, 2005 2:45 am
Route Climbed: Coleman Date Climbed: Aug. 1981fine climb, first experience with ice ax
onandupwards - Jan 11, 2005 9:26 pm
Route Climbed: Coleman Upper Deming Glacier Date Climbed: July17,2004Great route. Camped at 6300' My buddy convinced me to do this route instead of Easton Glacier, I'm glad !
Steve Larson - Nov 7, 2004 7:11 pm
Route Climbed: Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: August, 2000Beautiful weather, but too warm. The snow was very soft, and some of the crevasse crossings were iffy.
ripper333 - Oct 20, 2004 11:03 pm
Date Climbed: august 1998used this as a warm up before rainer. all went
well. great weather and lots of laughs.
dkantola - Sep 7, 2004 8:23 pm
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: September 5-6, 2004See Brian Jenkins's entry below. The route was very broken up, but covered with a few inches to a couple feet of new snow. We had to posthole across wind-deposited snow on the summit snow dome. There were some questionable snow bridges and newly covered crevasses. Incredible views -- equal to the best I've seen.
mt_daydream - Sep 7, 2004 4:40 am
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: September 5, 2004This climb was the best I have done till date! Thanks to Troy (tnorm) and his friend Sergei for letting us (me and my friend Lu) rope up with them. The route was an amazing zig-zag through a whole maze of crevasses, many of them HUGE. I punched through one of them till my waist, but it wasn't too deep. Sergei and Troy decided to go ahead unroped for the last section (and left us behind) as they thought we were not moving fast enough. It was very windy from 6:00 am till around 8:30 am. We got past the Roman wall when they were returning form the summit. I decided to turn back with them, even though the summit was just 400 ft away. Luckily, the weather stayed stable and we did not have any problems while returning. We had to avoid many of the snow bridges that we had used on our way up as the snow had become mellow by the time we returned. Overall, it was an amazing route with awesome views. Despite not reaching the summit, I consider this climb as a success for me.
Brian Jenkins - Sep 7, 2004 2:21 am
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: September 6, 2004Climbed with David Kantola and Vincenzo Micelli. Bivy sacked it at High Camp on Railroad Grade and started up about 3:20 am summitting a little over 6 hours later. Lots of cool crevasses to weave in and out of. Pretty cold and windy up top, autumn is coming..................
Thanks to David for a great lead and for inviting me along.
Derek Franzen - Aug 15, 2004 12:04 am
Route Climbed: Coleman Headwall, Boulder, Squak-Easton & Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: October 25/26 1980 CH & Multiple Times before and sinceWith E Sandbo & L Rasmussen -->Coleman Headwall trip report. Camping (when doing the Squak) is below rock out-crop visible on the S slope. Route passes by huge crevasses.
jtostenr - Aug 9, 2004 8:49 pm
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: August 8, 2004I climbed Mt. Baker as part of the Alpine Ascents 3-day climb. Our guides (Eric and Eric) were great and made this an easy climb.
After getting drenched coming in on Friday and spending Saturday under the clouds, we were pleasantly surprised to awaken to clear skies early Sunday morning. Spectacular weather and views throughout the day.
cluck - Aug 9, 2004 12:58 pm
Route Climbed: Coleman/Deming Date Climbed: 8/8/2004Nice day out on the glaciers. Camped at 7,200' on rocky ridge with great views of the route. CD was busy but not out of control. A couple of snow bridges that may not last long, but attentive parties can find alternatives. Roman wall snow was firm and good for cramponing. 1st time on the mountain and it is a beauty.
Elwood - Aug 2, 2004 11:10 pm
Route Climbed: Coleman-Deming Glacier Date Climbed: July 31, 2004This was my first climb as a Mazama member, after having climbed more than 20-yrs. with small groups of friends. It was an excellent experience, with a bunch of good folks, & I look forward to climbing with the Mazamas again! Of course, it was made all the better, by perfect weather!
pintlerpro - Aug 1, 2004 11:26 am
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: July 27Spent 6 days on the mountain and had great weather the whole trip. Learned some skills and made the summit with tons of energy to spare I'll try a harder route next time, The Easton Glacier just is not to steep for a hard effort climb, but does offer good training in the glacier envioroment.
StephaneFitch - Jul 28, 2004 2:29 pm
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: July 4, 2004We stripped our equipment down to the barest, lightest possible load for this two-day climb. One tent for the five of us. It had been a relatively warm night, so the Easton Glacier was a little soft the morning of July 4. My colleagues, Scott Patterson, Mark Fowlkes, Clay Parks, Tomas Kellner, and I left our campsite low on the Glacier at around 4 a.m. and reached the summit at roughly 9 a.m. The summit was chilly, windy and only partially sunny. We huddled for a half hour there eating our lunch. Scott and I had climbed this route in August 2001, but we enjoyed revisiting it with our friends. We were all a little tired from our climbs of Shuksan and Rainier earlier in the week. I hope the five of us climb together again in 2005. I can't imagine five people I'd rather spend time with in the mountains. Thanks, gents. Stephane Fitch
cp0915 - Jul 20, 2004 10:11 pm
Route Climbed: C-D Date Climbed: July 19, 2004Great climb despite the near white-out no-view. Many thanks to my partner, esugi.
esugi - Jul 20, 2004 12:24 am
Route Climbed: Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: July 19, 2004My third trip up Baker via Coleman-Deming. Climbed with Courtney (cp0915), his first time on a volcanoe. Thunderstorms and rain at night, woke up to a so-so weather and summit was obscured by clouds. Wind picked up along Pumice Ridge and gusting to 50 mph on summit. Near whiteout and very cold from 9500 feet up. No summit view.
rpc - Jun 21, 2004 1:21 pm
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: June 19, 2004We did this climb with our friends from the Mazamas. Crappy weather on the approach foreced us to bivy low (~5400') next to the Railroad Grade. 1am start the next morning under clear and calm conditions. Got to summit at 7am. Crowded. Quick photo and a quick upchuck (felt bad for some reason) and we hiked down/out. Headed down to L-worth for some approach-free cragging.
seth - Apr 29, 2004 6:33 pm
Route Climbed: Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: August 15-16, 1999Quick weekend up and down, great weather, great views, good times.