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haytraciRoute Climbed: Coleman Glacier Date Climbed: June 2002  Sucess!


My first real climb through glaciated territory and loved every minute of it. It was an intense experience in true focus and taught me many skills I use frequently to this day.
Posted Jul 28, 2005 6:49 pm

mattdalmanRoute Climbed: Squak-Easton Date Climbed: August 4, 2003  Sucess!


Set up high camp below Sherman Peak on the Squak glacier. Woke up at midnight and started up the Squak, but had route finding problems with all the crevasses so we traversed over to the Easton and made the summit with spectacular views. On the descent, clouds rolled in making it hard to see where to go. Thank goodness for wands! Fun climb.
Posted Jul 20, 2005 11:23 pm

forjanRoute Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: July 3, 2005  Sucess!


Climbed with agorokhov and ClimbingSnow. Started at 3:00pm from Shreiber's Meadow trailhead (3364') and go to our camp (6400') by 7:00pm on partial white-out conditions. Not sure if it was going to clear, we prepared anyway and hoped for the best. Then, by 10:30pm, it cleared (a sea of stars on the night's sky above). Woke up and walked out of camp at 3:30am. By 4:45am, we didn't need our headlamps. Reached the summit at 9:30am (6 hrs from camp); we're slow. Mostly sunny & clear , but windy at the summit. Excellent views all around. Could see Glacier Peak, Rainier, Shuksan and several other North Cascade peaks. Three hours later we're back to camp. Rested for an hour and then we hiked out. We stopped to eat dinner at Tacos Guaymas in Burlington (I highly recommend the Beef Steak 'Wet' Burrito).
Posted Jul 7, 2005 4:09 pm

lidijagrazulisRoute Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: June 19, 2005  Sucess!


Fun, easy, glacier climb on a (mostly) gorgeous day! A little white-out came up while we were on the summit and made the descent a little more exciting, but that cleared up before long.
Posted Jun 23, 2005 8:05 pm

ericbRoute Climbed: Coleman - Deming Date Climbed: May 27 - May 28, 2005  Sucess!
We left at 9:30pm from the Heliotrope Ridge Trailhead and summitted at 5:15am. It was a warm evening, so the snow below the Black Buttes was soft. But, once we got up to the saddle, the snow had set up pretty good. The Roman Wall was still steep (of course), but we were able to kick steps in the firm snow.

Watch out below the Black Buttes. We stumbled onto a couple of small open crevasses. Glad we decided to rope up there.

Overall it took about 13 hours car to car.
Posted Jun 1, 2005 12:35 pm

Alpine EricRoute Climbed: Coleman Glacier Date Climbed: July 10, 1999  Sucess!
Kind of disappointing to see snow mobilers on the summit after the long slog to the top but as always it was worth it. You could literally play football on Baker's summit, it's huge up there.
Posted Apr 29, 2005 4:07 pm

Dan WinterRoute Climbed: Easton Glacier. Date Climbed: 7/16/04-7/17/-4  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2004

Dan Winter

A fun trip in good weather with the Seattle Mountaineers. After being hosed by the weather on previous attempts up the Boulder Glacier and Coleman glacier routes I finally summited this mountain.
Posted Mar 18, 2005 3:35 pm

sufferjoyRoute Climbed: Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: June 1, 2004  Sucess!


Nice climb, but not really technical.

There was A LOT of snow (waist-deep in places), so we had to posthole all the way up, which was sort of painful -- but I perversely enjoyed it ;)

We had a very short window of clear-visibility weather (about 5 hours) during which we made most of the ascent (plus a couple of 1-2 hour windows next day). The rest of the time it was complete or near-complete whiteout (incl. the summit). We had to rope up and mark our way (to avoid getting lost on the way down).

We originally planned to go to the North-West ridge, but did not go there due to the weather conditions.

See a photo-report at


Posted Mar 18, 2005 9:50 am

puddlecruiserRoute Climbed: Coleman-Upper Demming Glacier Date Climbed: August 2000  Sucess!


Fantastic solo climb, but I didn't even have time to finish my sandwich on the summit because it was instant blizzard time. Too bad the storm was invisible over the ocean, and I must have mistook the first wisps of clouds for an innocent orographic effect. Western sky was clear only 5 minutes before the snow hit. Needless to say, my descent was a bit trickier than the ascent. ~1000 ft below, it was a beautifully calm snowfall.
Posted Feb 22, 2005 10:32 am

plumeRoute Climbed: Coleman Date Climbed: Aug. 1981  Sucess!


fine climb, first experience with ice ax
Posted Feb 13, 2005 2:45 am

onandupwardsRoute Climbed: Coleman Upper Deming Glacier Date Climbed: July17,2004  Sucess!


Great route. Camped at 6300' My buddy convinced me to do this route instead of Easton Glacier, I'm glad !
Posted Jan 11, 2005 9:26 pm

Steve LarsonRoute Climbed: Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: August, 2000  Sucess!

Steve Larson

Beautiful weather, but too warm. The snow was very soft, and some of the crevasse crossings were iffy.
Posted Nov 7, 2004 7:11 pm

ripper333Date Climbed: august 1998  Sucess!
used this as a warm up before rainer. all went

well. great weather and lots of laughs.
Posted Oct 20, 2004 11:03 pm

dkantolaRoute Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: September 5-6, 2004  Sucess!


See Brian Jenkins's entry below. The route was very broken up, but covered with a few inches to a couple feet of new snow. We had to posthole across wind-deposited snow on the summit snow dome. There were some questionable snow bridges and newly covered crevasses. Incredible views -- equal to the best I've seen.
Posted Sep 7, 2004 8:23 pm

mt_daydreamRoute Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: September 5, 2004


This climb was the best I have done till date! Thanks to Troy (tnorm) and his friend Sergei for letting us (me and my friend Lu) rope up with them. The route was an amazing zig-zag through a whole maze of crevasses, many of them HUGE. I punched through one of them till my waist, but it wasn't too deep. Sergei and Troy decided to go ahead unroped for the last section (and left us behind) as they thought we were not moving fast enough. It was very windy from 6:00 am till around 8:30 am. We got past the Roman wall when they were returning form the summit. I decided to turn back with them, even though the summit was just 400 ft away. Luckily, the weather stayed stable and we did not have any problems while returning. We had to avoid many of the snow bridges that we had used on our way up as the snow had become mellow by the time we returned. Overall, it was an amazing route with awesome views. Despite not reaching the summit, I consider this climb as a success for me.

Posted Sep 7, 2004 4:40 am

Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: September 6, 2004  Sucess!

Brian Jenkins

Climbed with David Kantola and Vincenzo Micelli. Bivy sacked it at High Camp on Railroad Grade and started up about 3:20 am summitting a little over 6 hours later. Lots of cool crevasses to weave in and out of. Pretty cold and windy up top, autumn is coming..................

Thanks to David for a great lead and for inviting me along.

Posted Sep 7, 2004 2:21 am

Derek FranzenRoute Climbed: Coleman Headwall, Boulder, Squak-Easton & Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: October 25/26 1980 CH & Multiple Times before and since  Sucess!

Derek Franzen

With E Sandbo & L Rasmussen -->Coleman Headwall trip report. Camping (when doing the Squak) is below rock out-crop visible on the S slope. Route passes by huge crevasses.
Posted Aug 15, 2004 12:04 am

jtostenrRoute Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: August 8, 2004  Sucess!


I climbed Mt. Baker as part of the Alpine Ascents 3-day climb. Our guides (Eric and Eric) were great and made this an easy climb.

After getting drenched coming in on Friday and spending Saturday under the clouds, we were pleasantly surprised to awaken to clear skies early Sunday morning. Spectacular weather and views throughout the day.
Posted Aug 9, 2004 8:49 pm

cluckRoute Climbed: Coleman/Deming Date Climbed: 8/8/2004  Sucess!


Nice day out on the glaciers. Camped at 7,200' on rocky ridge with great views of the route. CD was busy but not out of control. A couple of snow bridges that may not last long, but attentive parties can find alternatives. Roman wall snow was firm and good for cramponing. 1st time on the mountain and it is a beauty.
Posted Aug 9, 2004 12:58 pm

ElwoodRoute Climbed: Coleman-Deming Glacier Date Climbed: July 31, 2004  Sucess!


This was my first climb as a Mazama member, after having climbed more than 20-yrs. with small groups of friends. It was an excellent experience, with a bunch of good folks, & I look forward to climbing with the Mazamas again! Of course, it was made all the better, by perfect weather!
Posted Aug 2, 2004 11:10 pm

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