Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: May 26-27, 2003
Started early in a perfect weather. By 1pm reached the ice-climb on the ridge. After the leaders reached the top of the ridge, some of the climbers had difficulties ascending the ropes. Weather deteriorated. As a result - unplanned bivy in a snow cave dug on the top of the ridge. Next morning everyone reached the summit.
Route Climbed: Coleman-upper Deming Date Climbed: August 1998
We camped surrounded by flowers below the snow. Next day on the summit I surprised my wife with a gold and onyx ring to commemorate the summit. Our third member, Jim, fell and slid down a slope on the descent dragging my wife Melody into a crevasse. I found her lodged upside down, feet wiggling furiously in the air only an arms reach deep into the chasm. She got quite an adrenaline rush but was unhurt. Moving slowly, we didn't reach our tent until after dark.
Also climbed the North Ridge back in (I think) 1995. Spent one night at base of route and the next day climbed it and returned to car. Mostly it's pretty much a snow climb but there were 2 or 3 pitches that were cool. We had fun regardless.
Climbed the North Ridge car to car in 12 hours in very good conditions including 2 pitches of steep, excellent ice. Snowed up road forced a longer approach and a white out on the summit partly explain our slow time. Dehydration was also a factor.
Route Climbed: Coleman Glacier headwall Date Climbed: September 1984
The late Bob Harvey and I climbed the beautiful Coleman Glacier via it's Headwall in the fall of 1984. This was another of the unforgetable NW volcano climbs. Great trip!
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier, South Face direct Date Climbed: 9/05/02
Spent six days on the mountain, some horrible weather during the first leg of the tri p. clearing skies and light winds on our summit day. beautiful conditions leaving camp at 4 am. very nice crevasses leading up to the Roman Wall. two rope teams, one lost water bottle into a crevasse. we managed to pass every other team on the mountain that morning, summiting in light clouds and fifteen mph winds. nice view to the east of Shuksan that lasted about a minute. Good climb, not very difficult and very asthetically pleasing, a beautiful mountain. Can't wait to try it in the winter with a snowboard.
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: AUGUST 30, 2002
I climbed with Alpine Ascents International, as part of their 6 Day Mountaineering Course.
Our Guides were Todd and Winslow Passey, and this husband and wife guiding team REALLY know what they are doing! They are nice folks, excellent teachers, and I highly recommend them to any, and all!
Route Climbed: Colemane-Deming Glacier Date Climbed: Sept. 28, 2002
Climbed with Steve Rankin. Started at trailhead at 4:30am, summited at 11:45am. Glacier in good shape, some route finding. Beautiful day to climb. Made it back to trailhead at 4pm, a nice 11.5 hour day. More satisfying to do the whole mountain in one day rather than camp at bottom of or on glacier.
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: August 3, 2002
Matt and I went car to car in just over 12 hours. Weather was cool, cloudy and snow conditions were ideal. Easton Glacier is opening up with crevasses but all snow bridges were in good shape. Routefinding would be tricky on this route in the event of a whiteout. Chris
Route Climbed: Coleman - Upper Deming Date Climbed: June 1, 2002
We did it in a single push. If you are the type that learns from others' mistakes, then either do it in 2 days so you can summit before 9 AM, or carry skis so you can ski down in the soft afternoon snow.
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: Summer '95
Perfect climbing conditions, clear skies, cold temps and zero wind. The Headwall was exciting, but crowded with about four other rope teams. We brought a frizbee to the top, running for the strays was not easy.
Returned in December '97 for an attempt of Thunder Glacier to Coleman and up the Headwall, but large avalanches off of Colfax Peak turned us back.
Climbed Easton with Noonan & Cenk. Coleman-Deming was excellent climb with Noonan & Adamcyk. Spent night at col, saw northern lights, then summited at dawn. Headwall above cleaver was cool.
Route Climbed: Coleman/Deming Date Climbed: June 23, 2002
Left TH on Saturday morning and reached camp pretty quickly as it is only about 3 miles. Lower part of coleman is strating to break up, with small breaks that are revealing larger crevasses.
Left camp (7200') @ 3am and reached the saddle (9000') around 445am. Up until that point the weather was fine, but the Lenticular we saw the night before was a good warning to what was coming. Low visibility plagued us all the way to the summit, with 2 small 1 minute windows that let us see the Roman Wall to our left as we ascended the route to the summit. With 3 rope teams of 4 we were able to safely wand the route. Many teams turned around on the Coleman side, but we saw many from the Easton side reach the summit the same time we did. No views at all from the summit, with only a few 30 second sunbreaks. Reached the summit at 720am. Left 15 minutes later and reached the saddle quite quickly only to find better visibility. Once we got lower on the Coleman Glacier, the summit opened up quite a bit - so many others must have had a better summit view thatn we did.
Route Climbed: Coleman - Upper Deming Date Climbed: June1, 2002
Very different conditions from my first attempt in Aug 2001. This time, snow covered the entire Heliotrope Ridge trail to the base of the glacier, whereas in August we were hiking up to camp on dirt. Despite the fact that we had to park a couple of miles from the trailhead, the hike in was substantially easier! (being fitter didn't hurt) Unlike last time, we really lucked out on the weather. I led, and found route finding easy and the terrain spectacular. Wish I had taken more photos of the crevasses on the way up. The snow was really hard on that last steep bit by the Roman Wall. Not technically demanding, but a bit of a grunt (was feeling the lack of sleep, & perhaps the altitude too). Once on top, we un-roped, ditched our packs, and quickly continued to the little bump that is the true summit. Due to the gloriously sunny weather & my less than kick-ass pace that day, we encountered soft snow on the last bit down to camp. Really envied the skiers. Once packed up and heading out, believe it or not, navigational skills became key on the hike from camp to the trailhead. Put the GPS & compass to good use & it paid off. Thanks to Kyle & Ryan for a great adventure.
mtselman - Jun 6, 2003 12:08 pm
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: May 26-27, 2003Started early in a perfect weather. By 1pm reached the ice-climb on the ridge. After the leaders reached the top of the ridge, some of the climbers had difficulties ascending the ropes. Weather deteriorated. As a result - unplanned bivy in a snow cave dug on the top of the ridge. Next morning everyone reached the summit.
mtselman - Jun 6, 2003 12:04 pm
Route Climbed: Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: May 25, 2003Started late, around 11am from the low camp. 5:35pm - summit. 8:30pm - back in the camp.
wallspeck - Mar 19, 2003 10:15 pm
Route Climbed: Coleman-upper Deming Date Climbed: August 1998We camped surrounded by flowers below the snow. Next day on the summit I surprised my wife with a gold and onyx ring to commemorate the summit. Our third member, Jim, fell and slid down a slope on the descent dragging my wife Melody into a crevasse. I found her lodged upside down, feet wiggling furiously in the air only an arms reach deep into the chasm. She got quite an adrenaline rush but was unhurt. Moving slowly, we didn't reach our tent until after dark.
Also climbed the North Ridge back in (I think) 1995. Spent one night at base of route and the next day climbed it and returned to car. Mostly it's pretty much a snow climb but there were 2 or 3 pitches that were cool. We had fun regardless.
bighurtbob - Jan 30, 2003 7:21 am
Route Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: May 1998Climbed the North Ridge car to car in 12 hours in very good conditions including 2 pitches of steep, excellent ice. Snowed up road forced a longer approach and a white out on the summit partly explain our slow time. Dehydration was also a factor.
bighurtbob - Jan 30, 2003 7:19 am
Route Climbed: Coleman Headwall Date Climbed: June 2000Climbed Coleman Headwall in 10 hours car to car under very good conditions. A fit person could reasonably climb this route much faster.
asmrz - Nov 16, 2002 6:58 pm
Route Climbed: Coleman Glacier headwall Date Climbed: September 1984The late Bob Harvey and I climbed the beautiful Coleman Glacier via it's Headwall in the fall of 1984. This was another of the unforgetable NW volcano climbs. Great trip!
ClimbLer - Nov 8, 2002 1:53 pm
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier, South Face direct Date Climbed: 9/05/02Spent six days on the mountain, some horrible weather during the first leg of the tri p. clearing skies and light winds on our summit day. beautiful conditions leaving camp at 4 am. very nice crevasses leading up to the Roman Wall. two rope teams, one lost water bottle into a crevasse. we managed to pass every other team on the mountain that morning, summiting in light clouds and fifteen mph winds. nice view to the east of Shuksan that lasted about a minute. Good climb, not very difficult and very asthetically pleasing, a beautiful mountain. Can't wait to try it in the winter with a snowboard.
Ascending Path - Oct 31, 2002 2:18 pm
Route Climbed: Easton, North Ridge, Date Climbed: 97,00,01,02We have climbed and guided this peak many times.
Drop us a line for info.
www.theascendingpath.com
cjrobinson - Oct 29, 2002 6:01 pm
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: AUGUST 30, 2002I climbed with Alpine Ascents International, as part of their 6 Day Mountaineering Course.
Our Guides were Todd and Winslow Passey, and this husband and wife guiding team REALLY know what they are doing! They are nice folks, excellent teachers, and I highly recommend them to any, and all!
Distel32 - Oct 27, 2002 6:22 pm
Route Climbed: Colemane-Deming Glacier Date Climbed: Sept. 28, 2002Climbed with Steve Rankin. Started at trailhead at 4:30am, summited at 11:45am. Glacier in good shape, some route finding. Beautiful day to climb. Made it back to trailhead at 4pm, a nice 11.5 hour day. More satisfying to do the whole mountain in one day rather than camp at bottom of or on glacier.
cjwhat - Oct 18, 2002 9:00 am
Route Climbed: Coleman Glacier Date Climbed: August 20, 1988Opted for Coleman-Deming route due to low viz. Climbed with Randall Cooner and Marco Johnson.
jasonconnell - Sep 10, 2002 10:29 am
Route Climbed: Easton and Coleman Date Climbed: March 98 and Summer 99My friend Nick and I snowshoed all the way to the Summit in March 98. 3 days round trip.
We went back in 99 with girlfriends and did a variation of the Coleman.
Back again with a group of Starbucks Mountaineers.
Did the Coleman Car to Summit in 7.5 hours, great climb/conditions/weather
http://www.jasonconnell.com/2003/Baker/FrameSet.htm
Rich Park - Aug 8, 2002 2:48 am
Route Climbed: Coleman/Denning Date Climbed: June 4 2002Took the AAI six day cascade course. we had perfect
weather the for our entire stay. the descent from the
summit was kind of a PITA because the snow was
soft we were postholing up to our knees.
jentzchj - Aug 5, 2002 9:17 am
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: August 3, 2002Matt and I went car to car in just over 12 hours. Weather was cool, cloudy and snow conditions were ideal. Easton Glacier is opening up with crevasses but all snow bridges were in good shape. Routefinding would be tricky on this route in the event of a whiteout. Chris
krishna - Aug 2, 2002 2:37 pm
Route Climbed: Coleman - Upper Deming Date Climbed: June 1, 2002We did it in a single push. If you are the type that learns from others' mistakes, then either do it in 2 days so you can summit before 9 AM, or carry skis so you can ski down in the soft afternoon snow.
Joe Hanssen - Jul 29, 2002 9:09 am
Route Climbed: Easton Glacier Date Climbed: Summer '95Perfect climbing conditions, clear skies, cold temps and zero wind. The Headwall was exciting, but crowded with about four other rope teams. We brought a frizbee to the top, running for the strays was not easy.
Returned in December '97 for an attempt of Thunder Glacier to Coleman and up the Headwall, but large avalanches off of Colfax Peak turned us back.
BicRungee - Jul 10, 2002 4:14 pm
Route Climbed: Easton & Coleman-Deming Date Climbed: Aug, 1995 & Sept, 1999Climbed Easton with Noonan & Cenk. Coleman-Deming was excellent climb with Noonan & Adamcyk. Spent night at col, saw northern lights, then summited at dawn. Headwall above cleaver was cool.
Vinny - Jun 26, 2002 5:46 am
Route Climbed: Coleman Deming Date Climbed: mid June 1999A great introductory climb for some of my good friends.
Classic volcano climbing.
Incredible winds and great views!
scot'teryx - Jun 24, 2002 7:54 pm
Route Climbed: Coleman/Deming Date Climbed: June 23, 2002Left TH on Saturday morning and reached camp pretty quickly as it is only about 3 miles. Lower part of coleman is strating to break up, with small breaks that are revealing larger crevasses.
Left camp (7200') @ 3am and reached the saddle (9000') around 445am. Up until that point the weather was fine, but the Lenticular we saw the night before was a good warning to what was coming. Low visibility plagued us all the way to the summit, with 2 small 1 minute windows that let us see the Roman Wall to our left as we ascended the route to the summit. With 3 rope teams of 4 we were able to safely wand the route. Many teams turned around on the Coleman side, but we saw many from the Easton side reach the summit the same time we did. No views at all from the summit, with only a few 30 second sunbreaks. Reached the summit at 720am. Left 15 minutes later and reached the saddle quite quickly only to find better visibility. Once we got lower on the Coleman Glacier, the summit opened up quite a bit - so many others must have had a better summit view thatn we did.
Peak Freak - Jun 18, 2002 9:38 pm
Route Climbed: Coleman - Upper Deming Date Climbed: June1, 2002Very different conditions from my first attempt in Aug 2001. This time, snow covered the entire Heliotrope Ridge trail to the base of the glacier, whereas in August we were hiking up to camp on dirt. Despite the fact that we had to park a couple of miles from the trailhead, the hike in was substantially easier! (being fitter didn't hurt) Unlike last time, we really lucked out on the weather. I led, and found route finding easy and the terrain spectacular. Wish I had taken more photos of the crevasses on the way up. The snow was really hard on that last steep bit by the Roman Wall. Not technically demanding, but a bit of a grunt (was feeling the lack of sleep, & perhaps the altitude too). Once on top, we un-roped, ditched our packs, and quickly continued to the little bump that is the true summit. Due to the gloriously sunny weather & my less than kick-ass pace that day, we encountered soft snow on the last bit down to camp. Really envied the skiers. Once packed up and heading out, believe it or not, navigational skills became key on the hike from camp to the trailhead. Put the GPS & compass to good use & it paid off. Thanks to Kyle & Ryan for a great adventure.