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Mount Baker Climber's Log

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Kristian MartensCaught in the saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2017

Kristian Martens

Coleman-Deming/Heliotrope Ridge route.
July 2-3 2017.
Perfect approach day - bluebird skies & great conditions. Just able to park at the Trailhead (first weekend to do so after heavy snowpack winter). Basecamp setup on Coleman glacier near Black Buttes. Most smaller crevasses covered - no sketchy crossings until higher elevations.
Overnight major storm hit - winds high enough to destroy a 4-season tent (rental from MEC). Up at 1:30 for coffee and to gear-up. Had to take-down tents due to conditions (would blow off the mtn if we weren't sleeping in them). 2 other groups plus ourselves, decided to rope up & make a summit attempt - we followed their path. Departed around 3:30am amidst blowing wind & heavy overcast conditions. Both other groups turned back around 6am. We continued briefly to the saddle between the Roman Wall & Colfax. Complete white-out. Evidence of significant and recent avalanche debris all around us. Large crevasses to navigate around - could barely see them in time. Post-holed a bit, prayed, waited 15 minutes for a miracle - then decided to return to basecamp.
Packed up gear and glissaded much of the way off the glacier & down the hogsback. Watch for hidden crevasses in the snow-pack adjacent to hogback, especially where creeks cross. Deep enough to swallow you. Had to jump across one, about 4ft wide & 20ft deep.
Approach trail was mixed - snow & open trail. Glacier creek crossing was very sketchy - although everyone appeared to make it. Many groups heading up on Saturday afternoon as we headed out.
All in all - a beautiful 2 days on the mountain with my 3 sons. Psalm 121 came alive.
Posted Jun 8, 2017 4:24 pm

PeakerColeman/Deming  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 27, 2017


More or less walked up with a fellow peakbagger who had much more experience with glaciers and snow. Beautiful weather, lots of people out enjoying the mountain.
Posted May 30, 2017 2:43 pm

Young RoyceColeman-Demming  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2016

Young Royce

Camped at Hogsback, spent a day on the glacier practicing crevasse rescue. Summited around 5:45am on day 3 with a windy whiteout at the microclimate starting at the Roman Wall and continuing all around the summit crater. Crazy day!
Posted Apr 29, 2017 11:27 pm

KesslerBaker  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2017


Posted Apr 20, 2017 10:00 pm

JLuthanenSquak Glacier (south side)
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2016


Made it halfway up the mountain hiking / skinning. Lenticular formed over the mountain as we were going to bed that night with not the best forecast. Saw clouds approaching over the sisters to the West. Lots of rain / wind all night - woke up in a whiteout. Ended up scrapping the climb and playing around doing crevasse rescue practice before heading out
Posted Apr 20, 2017 4:13 pm

Ian CulhaneEaston Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2016

Ian Culhane

Excellent weather the whole weekend; even at 3AM I was comfortable hiking in a pair of pants and a long sleeve shirt. Crevasses have started opening up a moderate amount, but navigating around them is still quite easy. Reached the summit at around 6:30 in the morning, and spent about 45 minutes enjoying the views (and the pack of gummy bears I carried to the top).
Posted Aug 8, 2016 12:30 am

SchwartzOnAscent and then explored Coleman glacier next day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 19, 2013


Some of the most interesting snow and crevasse I've seen. Very late in season and crevasses were all exposed. I liked hiking through forest and popping out in the middle of a mountain. Gaining the ridge it was a little windy, and summit ridge is spectacular. Great views of BC to North. Skied the next day and explored Coleman Glacier.
Posted Jul 15, 2016 1:40 am

Ajeeth IbrahimVia Coleman Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2016

Ajeeth Ibrahim

Climbed via the Coleman Glacier.

Left camp at 2:15am, great conditions all day, though pretty sunny and hot by noon.

Posted Jul 12, 2016 6:38 pm

BooRadleyPerfect day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2016


Sunny day for a climb of Baker. Some of the crevasses on the Coleman-Deming route were beginning to open up, but you could still cross them all via snow bridges or small jumps.
Posted Jun 27, 2016 12:53 pm

CascadiaEaston Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 26, 2016
Cold and windy. Clear skies up top but cloudy below, only other mountain peaking out was Rainier.
Posted Jun 18, 2016 3:18 am

pschlaisColeman-Deming  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2016


First glaciated peak climb. Warm, sunny, windless at the summit was a treat.
Posted Jun 12, 2016 4:18 pm

NatDeroxL7Easton Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 18, 2016


No views, pretty close to whiteout most of the day :(
Posted Jun 10, 2016 5:24 pm

Larry LavertyColeman-Deming  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2016

Larry Laverty

Small expedition out of my home in Oakland, California. Flight into Sea-Tac. Rental car. Drive to Mt. Vernon. Motel overnight. Drive into the Heliotrope TH. Warm day so by mid-mountain every step a dune-climb at the beach. The climb from the saddle little by little thinned out the field, challenging slush. I had the summit to myself and standing on the knob was worth the extra hoof. Last man off the mountain became interesting with the days changes in the crevasse scene. An outstanding adventure in the beautiful state of Washington.
Posted Jun 8, 2016 10:02 pm

ScottMount Baker  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2016


June 4

Kessler's 14th birthday was on May 17th and my 42nd (ugh) will be on June 13, so we decided to combine our birthday presents and have an adventure between the two. We decided on Mount Baker. Since there are crevasses and since it is unlikely that Kessler could pull me out of a crevasse if the need arose, we enlisted the expertise of Crew Treks for their light-guided Mt Baker trip (I would highly recommend them).

We met Kyohei from Crew Treks and Tomek in Seattle and drove to the trailhead. We started up to the Coleman Glacier camp in hot weather. Since the snow was really melting, we had to cross several streams. There was snow starting at below 5,000 feet, but the weather was good.

We made it to the Coleman Glacier camp without a hitch, where we set up camp. The weather was perfectly clear and quite hot (considering our elevation).

June 5

We awoke at 2 am in order to pack up for the summit climb. The night was warm and it never did freeze, so the snow was softer than usual. The climb to the summit went well and since it was early season there were no large crevasses to cross.

We made our way up the steep headwall to the summit plateau and then onto the summit. The views were fantastic, but unfortunately, it was a little hazy.

We then descended the mountain back to camp and packed up. We had some really good and long glissades on our way back to the trailhead. It was a great climb.
Posted Jun 8, 2016 12:11 pm

cmarks7cloudsEaston in June  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 1994


Camped above 6,000 ft. and made summit by way of Roman Wall next morning. Enjoyed every minute. Next up Mt. rainier!
Posted May 20, 2016 9:53 pm

mikwatColman-Demoing  Sucess!
Great time for my first glaciated climb. Summited, but that Roman wall kicked my butt.
Posted Apr 13, 2016 7:21 pm

bnmchone Coleman/Deming Climb
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2014


Camped on North Face, started early and summitted by 9 AM with 3 X 3 person rope teams.
Posted Feb 29, 2016 3:18 am

mcrossOh the Lessons.  Sucess!


Peanuts do nothing for snow blindness. Check your buddy's gear. He might regret bringing that 5lb bucket of peanuts and no sunglasses.

Awesome climb though. Left the Tacoma area around 2AM on a Saturday, tagged the summit via Coleman Deming, and drove home the same day. Watch out for all of those hidden crevasses!
Posted Dec 14, 2015 5:48 pm

Matt Stockinger5-star route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2015

Matt Stockinger

Coleman-Deming route. Camped on rock (spectacular sites) at about 6900'. Woke up at 3am, leisurely pace, back at camp by 1pm-ish. Didn't see another soul. Route in great condition. Really stellar climb.
Posted Aug 18, 2015 5:54 pm

Nick TurturaPerfect Window  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2015

Nick Turtura

Camped just below the glacier. Left camp at 5:00am and summited around noon, back to camp at 5:00pm. The crevasses are open wide thus the long summit day of zig zagging our way around. The weather was perfect all day then started raining that night after our summit. We hiked out in the rain happy that we came in on a Thursday. We had the summit ALL to ourselves.

Shout out to Graham's Restaurant in Glacier. Great place to eat and relax after the climb.
Posted Jul 12, 2015 12:43 am

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