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dkangasNW Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2013
My third year in a row to summit Clark--it's a favorite. I'm now convinced that the purported 3rd/4th class route onto the NW Arete simply does not exist. My partner and I (Waide L) agreed our route was a 5.6 or so. Whoever goes for this route should either be prepared to solo 5.6 or bring a rope.

We did it in two pitches on a 30m rope as follows:
P1: From the left side of the top of the gully, start up an awkward hand crack (5.6) into a 4th class trench up to a small shrub pine tree for a belay stance.
P2: From the pine tree ascend to the right along a smooth, low-angle face to just under a roof (the roof is obvious from below). Getting under and around the roof is the 5.6 crux. From there it is a face climb with good holds but poor pro onto the arete. The arete itself is super-exposed class 3 on beautiful granite, everything one could ask for.
Posted Aug 23, 2013 2:13 am

Digglerfun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2013

Diggler

Did the NW Arete; 2nd try, after an unsuccessful attempt maybe a week prior. This time, after camping at Little Yosemite Valley after (another) unsuccessful Half Dome NW face attempt, figured it would be good to do this, while having 5 less miles to hike than from the standard TH. Left LYV campground at 9.20. Summited 15.00ish. Incredible views, super fun climbing! Left summit at 15.30. In attempt to find shortcut on downclimb, found myself in sketch 5th class terrain. Obviously no misfortune, but super glad to just make it back to the arete proper & just downclimb the same way I came up. Back at the campground ~22.00. Long, interesting, & fun day!
Posted Jun 14, 2013 1:43 pm

kevin trieuweird year...  Sucess!

kevin trieu

climbed during the year when there were no snow in the high country late into winter and all the high lakes were perfect for ice skating.
Posted Apr 30, 2013 2:40 pm

WayneFryThe Obelisk! SE Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2012

WayneFry

Climbed this route with dkangas and three other climbers from SMG. Long approach (9.5 mi) from Mono Meadows TH then another (1.5 mi) on summit day. Good solid route with lots of interesting and exposed climbing. The highlight of the day was of course the step-across below the summit. Damn little for hand holds and a step that must be made with authority. James Gardiner best described this part of the route after he and Clarence King summited the peak in 1866. "It was, I think, duty's call that nerved us. That leap, like most dangers, seemed more perilous after it was made than before; it was not the length of the spring -- that was easy -- but to light in exact balance on a projecting rock that scarcely held half of one foot, while the remainder of the body hung over a precipice 1500 ft. deep, was a thing requiring most exact judgment."
Posted Sep 28, 2012 5:51 pm

seanoUp NW, down SE  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2012

seano

Climbed some harder-than-necessary variation of the NW ridge after a long, long slog over from Starr King. Down the SE ridge, which is definitely less cool than the NW. Trip report.
Posted Sep 27, 2012 8:39 pm

bechttAscent via NW, descent via SE  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2012

bechtt

Good ascent with Bill and Laura climbing directly from the gendarme saddle at the top right side of the gully. Multiple rap stations and some interesting moves gave me pause a couple of times of my choice in footware. Missed (or forgot about) the airy step on the SE arete as Bill and I downclimbed an exposed cl.4 weakness on the east side. And then downed trees forever!
Posted Jun 25, 2012 4:46 pm

Vitaliy M.Finally..NW arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011

Vitaliy M.

Came back with same group to get our revenge. No thunderstorm this time! Took about an hour on the summit to take in the views!
Posted Aug 22, 2011 4:23 pm

mrchad9Mono Meadows  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011

mrchad9

Long dayhike from Mono Meadows with Vitaliy M. and dkangas after being chased off by electrical storms the year before. We got very lucky with the wind as the smoke from the nearby fires on Glacier Point road did not affect our views at all. Climbed onto the arete from the saddle where the ridge in the middle meets the southwest face. Excellent day.
Posted Aug 22, 2011 1:44 pm

dkangasReturn to Clark  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011
Returned to NW arete after getting stopped by a lightning storm last fall. Day-hiked from Mono Meadow with Chad and Vitaliy. To gain the arete we climbed to the saddle between the large gendarme and the west face itself, scrambled up some class 3, then set up an anchor for the class 5 portion. Superb day.
Posted Aug 22, 2011 12:52 pm

yosemitechickonDun it  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2011

yosemitechickon

Up NW Arete, down NE face:
https://picasaweb.google.com/yosemite.chick.on/MtClark
Posted Aug 16, 2011 8:09 pm

mountainmattFavorites  Sucess!

mountainmatt

One of my favorites from my years working in the High Sierras.
Posted Feb 7, 2011 9:29 pm

dkangasStorm on Clark
Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010
Day-hiked from Happy Isles with Vitaliy and Chad for attempt on NW Arete. Forecast was for the famous 20% chance of thunderstorms. At the top of the gully (the route start) dark clouds alternated with sun as we put on gear, so we decided to climb up to the arete and "see." After one pitch with a 30m rope we encountered a crux section for getting onto the top of the arete. Unexpectedly difficult climbing (seemed more like class 5 than the advertised class 4 to me), and with now very sketchy weather, I bailed. Vitaliy and Chad continued to the top of the arete. Within minutes they were engulfed in electro-static goo, rocks humming, as a huge t-storm rolled over us. I was able to rappel down from my position using a long piece of webbing while the others hunkered down under a roof on top of the arete. Fortunately, everyone was okay. A very scary 45 minutes. Lesson for me: pay attention to the weather. But Clark is a beautiful mountain--I'll be going back. Car to car was 18 hours. To avoid bushwhacking hell, head up as soon as you see exposed granite from the trail after Bunnell Point. In general, staying as far west as possible is a good rule for navigating the first off trail section.
Posted Oct 6, 2010 1:55 am

PellucidWombatLoooong Dayhike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2010

PellucidWombat

Dayhiked via NW Arete from Happy Isles TH with Joel Wilson and Heyning Cheng. I carried a rope and rack to lead the exposed sections for the others, and it came in handy! I started on the 4th class crack, but found two sections that I'd say were 5.4-5.5 (so 'classic' Sierra cl. 4?). We avoided the bushwack hell on the way up but couldn't avoid it on the way down.
Posted Sep 19, 2010 8:24 pm

murraymcleod1970 Climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1970

murraymcleod

Climbed with Kris Kilmer from Merced Lake HSC where we worked that summer. We had to be back by 4PM to help fix dinner for guests, so was a quick trip. Climbed east slope (not too hard) and descended via north slope I think....
Posted Jan 8, 2010 2:19 am

cottersnowOblique Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2006
Pretty. Should've done a different route though.
Posted Dec 5, 2009 3:42 pm

haishanNW Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2008

haishan

Loop dayhike from the Valley, up via Little Yosemite and down via SE Arete and Illilouette drainage. 1500' of great ridge scrambling and a little stiffer near the summit. Spectacular and exhausting.
Posted Jul 13, 2008 2:22 pm

tb00957southeast ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2007
Very long, hot, dusty approach, for about 50 feet of 4th class fun. We brought rope but nobody used it. It's nice to check it off, but I'm not going to do this peak again anytime soon.
Posted Aug 3, 2007 12:36 pm

Dave KSoutheast Arete

Dave K

Fun! I climbed this with mrwsierra. I think Fall is an excellent time to climb this, since the boggy meadows of Illiouette Creek are almost entirely dried up so crossing that area is pretty easy.

I found an arrowhead just below the summit. I wondered what they were hunting up there--bighorn sheep, perhaps?
Posted Mar 5, 2007 5:22 am

Matthew HollimanNW Face/Arete (ascent) / NE Face (descent)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2006

Matthew Holliman

Dayhike out of Yosemite Valley, a somewhat ill-conceived warm-up for Mt. Florence the next day. This peak has been on my to-do list for a while now, since it stands out from so many vantage points in Yosemite, but its reputation for being a difficult climb put me off for quite a while. It was worth the wait.

Scenic approach out of the valley, then some really bad brush and a boring hike through the forest. I looked around a bunch but couldn't figure out how to get onto the arete (later, Bob told me I needed to climb pretty high in the gully before moving onto it), so I climbed the face instead--this was much easier, with some fun, exposed 4th class (maybe a move or two of easy 5th in places), before I found a good exit onto the arete near where its angle suddenly decreases on the final part of the summit ridge. Some more scrambling with exhilarating exposure led up to the summit.

The SE Ridge looked kind of tough, and since I'd burned a lot of time both on the bushwhacking and trying to figure out how to gain the arete, in the interest of expediency I descended the easy NE Face. (I didn't want to downclimb the way I came up unless I absolutely had to). A couple of class 4ish moves near the top, then class 3 ledges from there, followed by lots of sand down to Obelisk Lake. I didn't have a map for the descent down to Merced Lake, and some cliffs had me worried for a bit, but fortunately everything stayed class 2. The hike back to the valley was very, very long.

I was pretty darned beat for Florence the next day...
Posted Dec 1, 2006 4:46 am

SamanthaNW arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006

Samantha

Bob Burd provides excellent directions for the approach. Too bad I didn't follow them on the way in! Great climb (but I am not sure I could have done it with a pack on). Kudos to those who daytrip this and do the ridge traverse!
Posted Jul 31, 2006 5:06 pm

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