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Mount Conness Climber's Log

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Brian JenkinsRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 11, 2003

Brian Jenkins

Oh, so close! Climbed with my buddy, Brian, and was going to meet our friends Mark and Natasha up top as they climbed the North Ridge. From Alpine Lake, we searched for the "notch" in the east ridge and headed up. We should have known things were not right when we ran into 4th class exposed stuff. Scrambled up over the ridge to find the south ridge converging with the one we just climbed. Scrambled up 3 dead ends on the back side of the spires before we gave up and descended scree to the meadowed valley below. Enjoyed beautiful flowery meadows on the way back. Caught the wrong trail back and ended up a bit south on the road in to the trailhead.



Finally got through to Mark and Natasha on the radio who were just reaching the summit (10 hours after they started). Figured out later we had climbed the wrong ridge. There are two that jut out east, you want the northern one. We climbed the toothy one with spires and although we only got to about 11,800 feet, we had a nice hike and scramble. The soft meadows on the way down really revived us and made the climb for me. Got some food at the cafe at Saddlebag Lake then headed back to Tuolomne. Mark and Natasha showed up about 9 pm that night with their tales of the summit. I'm going to have to go back and finish this one up sometime.
Posted Aug 18, 2003 10:22 pm

DigglerRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: 16 - 17 August, '3  Sucess!

Diggler

Word up, 'wombat. One of my more interesting epics. Four.25 mile approaches, including bushwacking, X-country, & several thousand feet vertical gain, should not be underestimated. Neither should a 1500' high technical route (I don't consider this a II or III- definitely a IV in my book!). On the bright side, the rock was clean for the most part (sorta flaky & mungy at the bottom, and parts later on, mostly really good farther up), the views spectacular, & the position awesome (above the SW face, in the true sense of the word!!!)! Climbing at night, hearing the coyotes howl, seeing Lyell & its glacier from one aspect, & the lights of Oakdale from another, was surreal. Seeing the sunrise at the summit was pretty cool (& pretty cold!) too. A great peak & awesome route. Give yourself plenty of time (if you're going with a rope, anyway)!
Posted Aug 18, 2003 11:32 am

PellucidWombatRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 17, 2003  Sucess!

PellucidWombat

REALLY long 'day' for a climb. After leaving a little late and getting a slow start on the ridge, we got caught in the dark after the first 3 or 4 pitches and had to climb the rest of the ridge in the dark. As a result, we belayed all of the pitches until the final 300 feet of 3rd class scrambling, with us summitting at 5am the following day. By the time we got back to the car, we'd been on the move for 24 hours.
Posted Aug 18, 2003 5:00 am

csundraRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: August 09, 2003  Sucess!

csundra

My very first free solo! It was awesome! We climbed North Peak first, from Saddlebag Lake, then hiked down its south ridge and up Conness' north ridge. Killer!
Posted Aug 14, 2003 10:36 pm

MishaRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 3, 2003  Sucess!

Misha

Summitted with my girlfriend Etsuko via East Ridge. We took the variation between East Ridge from Alpine Lake and East Ridge routes. It turned out to be an easy Class 3 going and more direct and pleasant than from Alpine Lake. We made it to the top in ~3 hours from the parking lot at Saddleback Lake. Weather was surprisingly stable and rain-free after many days of violent thunderstorms above the Sierra crest. Views from the summit are incredible! On the top we've met a chef of Tioga Pass Resort who free-solo'ed West Ridge.

On the way down, we took some harder Class 3 - borderline Class 4 slabs to Alpine Lake where we spent an hour enjoying the sun!





Posted Aug 4, 2003 2:30 am

dharmadogRoute Climbed: East Route from Saddleback Lake Date Climbed: August 2002  Sucess!

dharmadog

By way of Alpine Lake on one of those cloudless days with views beyond dreams.
Posted Apr 18, 2003 8:22 pm

Eric TiptonRoute Climbed: Southwest Face "Harding Route" 5.10 Date Climbed: Sept. 1999  Sucess!
One of the great ones, Bob Cable and I climbed this route as a finale to the greatest sierra season ever. I'm suprised I've still got a wife. Pitch 2 may be the crux but whoever leads pitch 5 knows where the crux really is.
Posted Dec 10, 2002 8:50 pm

kullabergRoute Climbed: north ridge Date Climbed: sept 2000  Sucess!

kullaberg

fine sierra ridge scramble. day trip from saddlebag lake. the crux is a steep downclimb which can be rapped if you have a rope. long descent.
Posted Nov 28, 2002 9:53 am

mdostbyRoute Climbed: East Ridge from Alpine Lake Date Climbed: October 20, 2002  Sucess!

mdostby

An awesome day! forjan, jimconsid, Will and myself climbed Mount Conness on what could be considered a perfect day. Left our campsite at Saddlebag Lake shortly after 6:00 AM and hiked cross-country to Alpine Lake. From there we picked up the East Ridge Route, scrambling up fun class 3 rock to the summit plateau. From there another short and somewhat exposed class 3 section brought us to the spectacular summit. The views in all directions where outstanding.
Posted Oct 21, 2002 7:24 pm

Dave KRoute Climbed: East Ridge from Alpine Lake Date Climbed: August 2002  Sucess!

Dave K

I climbed this for the second time with my good friend, Sam. She wasn’t feeling 100% because she spent part of the day before swimming down a class 5 rapid. Nevertheless, we both made it and afterwards had a nice swim and a few shots of scotch at Alpine Lake and walked down happily buzzed.



This is a nice, clean route (not much slogging). A few years ago I climbed the South Slope from the east route. Great route description.

Posted Oct 19, 2002 5:00 pm

bearbnzRoute Climbed: East Ridge, West Ridge, and North Ridge. Date Climbed: September 28, 2001

bearbnz

I have climbed the East Ridge twice, and the first trip, with my friend Craig Watkins, was uneventful but fun. The 2nd time, with ScottyS while on a geography field trip with UNR, was a full moon night time ascent. We left Saddlebag just after dark, and summited to crystal clear views in all directions at about 10 pm. Back to Saddlebag by 1 am for some sleep. The moon was so bright on the white granite that a headlamp was unnecessary except in the trees on the approach.

August 9, 2006: West Ridge with Dave Michalski, ctc in around 11 hours, we belayed the first two pitches, and simul-climbed the rest. Two simul-solers climbed ahead of us, and they they proceeded to simul-solo down the North Ridge. We descended the East Ridge.

August 28, 2006. Climbed the North Ridge from North Peak with D-Rod and ScottyS. An enjoyable day of scrambling, starting with the NW Ridge of North Peak.

August 8, 2009
Climbed the NW Ridge of North Peak, then the North Ridge of Conness, then the West Ridge of Conness, then back to the car just at dark
Posted Sep 27, 2002 4:35 pm

RomainRoute Climbed: East Ridge via Alpine Lake Date Climbed: September 21, 2002  Sucess!

Romain

Nice hike - except for the boring scree above Alpine Lake. The lake itself and then the summit ridge were the highlights. I was not expecting a "real" mountain, but it was...

With Sven Feldmann, 6 hours CTC at a leisurly pace, including lunch at Alpine lake (with a swim therein for Sven) and over an hour spent on the summit.
Posted Sep 23, 2002 12:48 am

ScottySRoute Climbed: East Ridge from Saddlebag Lake campground Date Climbed: Sept 28, 2001  Sucess!

ScottyS

Climbed at night with bearbnz under a full moon. Had headlamps, but didn't need them. Since we were on a class field trip, we mentioned to the instructor that we would "be taking a little walk". Needless to say, we were treated to awsome views of the Park at night, with the Sac valley city lights as a backdrop. Sticking our heads up over the buttress and seeing the imposing summit mass at night (with the glacier just to the right and down!) was a thrill that will stay with me for a while. We did the round trip in something like 7hrs.
Posted Aug 14, 2002 10:10 am

mpbroRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: August 5, 2002  Sucess!

mpbro

This was our second multipitch climb, after the south slopes of Mount Starr King. Considerably more committing! Although we made pretty good time to the start of the ridge (~ 2 hours from the car), I believe we spent about 8-9 hours on the windy ridge. This was due mainly to unnecessary use of the rope! Other than the downclimb/rappel on the second tower, the climbing never seemed harder than 5.2-5.4. To top things off, we got off-route on the descent and ended up doing much of it with headlamps. BTW, the register is full, for people who sign it.

Read my trip report
Posted Aug 6, 2002 4:57 pm

Joe HanssenRoute Climbed: South Slope Date Climbed: July 7 '02  Sucess!

Joe Hanssen

Conness is a great day climb in the Tioga Pass area. The summit block was fun, similar to Matterhorns. A bunch of marmots were up there. The basin from Sawmill campground to Alpine Lake and up to the saddle between Conness and White was filled with killer mosquitoes, I didn't stop till I got to the saddle where the wind kept them at bay. Solo
Posted Jul 29, 2002 6:29 pm

steelemanRoute Climbed: Glacier Route Date Climbed: June 30, 2002  Sucess!

steeleman

Summitted Conness via the far right chute on the glacier route. Main purpose was to ski that chute and the bowls off the east ridge. There was still a fair amount of snow heading into July, although getting very suncupped. Click here for trip report



Posted Jul 16, 2002 9:01 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: North Ridge Date Climbed: July 8, 2002  Sucess!

Josh

After bagging North Peak, I traversed over to the summit of Conness. 5.6 is a very generous rating for the North Ridge. IMO, it's more like 5.2. I saw that Joe Hanssen had been there the day before. It's always fun to run into SP people's log entries. Car to car in 4:55.
Posted Jul 8, 2002 4:23 pm

daniellwuRoute Climbed: From Saddlebag Lake Date Climbed: June 24th, 2000  Sucess!

daniellwu

email me for details... too lazy to write right now.
Posted Jul 7, 2002 9:36 pm

darinchadwickRoute Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 2000  Sucess!

darinchadwick

We took the slow long way. Hiked into Youngs Lake from Lembert Dome. First night out we heard a bear running by as other campers banged pots and shouted.

Next morning we took off, overlarge rack clanking away, and climbed one of the finest ridges in the Sierra's. It was a great mix of easy simul-climbing with shorter, harder belayed sections. We were S-L-O-W. Fervent promises were made to go faster and lighter in the future. Surprised at how many other parties were on the route. Finally summited and ran down the sandy slopes back to camp.

That night the camp was cleared out, and the bear harrassed us until 4:00am. In case you're wondering, no, we had nothing close to camp to attract the bear, except our own BO. It's an overused area, so she's conditioned to keep looking for food 'till she finds it.
Posted Mar 31, 2002 4:48 am

crackclimbRoute Climbed: east ridge Date Climbed: summer 98  Sucess!
a great day
Posted Nov 1, 2001 10:42 am

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