Route Climbed: Hourglass Couloir Date Climbed: Labor day (Sept) 2000
Attempted this peak on a trip with Shubo (Steve) Dai. We avoided the ice in the Hourglass by taking the narrow chute to the right. It was about 45 degrees and had lots of loose rock, not much good holds on the side. We made it to the top of the Hourglass and turned back after ascending about 1/3 of the south slope, mainly because of the fierce cold winds. Descending the solid 40 degree ice of the Hourglass with only an ice axe was the riskiest thing I've ever done. In hindsight it would have been much safer to descend the route we came up.
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe