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Mount Dana Climber's Log

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adampaulRoute Climbed: Standard NW route Date Climbed: 02 July, 2003  Sucess!


Superb views and great weather! Hike report and pics are here.
Posted Jul 14, 2003 3:17 pm

HamiltonRoute Climbed: Solstice Coulior Date Climbed: June 22, 2003  Sucess!


Climbed Mt Dana via the Solstice coulior (solo). The coulior was in excellent condition. I was able to kick steps all the way to the top and the snow was very secure. There are still cornices at the top of the coulior, however, there is a break in the center that is 5-6 feet of vertical snow. This is the only section where I used a second axe to get over the top - otherwise, a standard mountaineering axe was all that was needed. Overall, it was a great day and an exhilerating route! I would recommend this route over the Dana coulior if the snow conditions are right and the cornices are manageable.
Posted Jun 25, 2003 11:01 am

dharmadogRoute Climbed: Normal up, traverse( 3-4) to Dana Plateau down Date Climbed: August 2002  Sucess!


The Dana Plateau gives great view of north wall and Dana Couloir
Posted Apr 18, 2003 8:14 pm

ktnbsRoute Climbed: normal Date Climbed: August, 1965  Sucess!


Posted Mar 7, 2003 9:40 pm

Matthew HollimanA couple of times  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2002

Matthew Holliman

Been up this a couple of times.

It was one of the first Sierra peaks I ever climbed; I hiked it via the standard trail on the way back from a backpacking trip to Darwin Canyon. I had the summit to myself for an hour and a half to locate almost every named feature I could find on my Yosemite park map. Nice views!

Came back over Memorial Day weekend '04 (May 31st to be exact), this time to incorporate the traverse over to Mt. Gibbs. I'd intended to climb Dana Couloir, but I was pretty beat from the previous three days, so instead I just hiked up the NW "Ridge" from Glacier Canyon. Traversed on to Mt. Gibbs and back around via Dana Meadows. Unspectacular but pleasant enough.
Posted Dec 13, 2002 5:46 pm

Eric TiptonRoute Climbed: Third Pillar,Regular Route, III 5.10 Date Climbed: Sept. 1997  Sucess!
Bob Cable and I hiked in from Tioga Lake to the pillar, fired the route (first in line) and then continued along the eastern ridge to the summit. We decended down the western trail and back to Tioga lake. An exhausting day, We suffered an acute case of "Danacosis" on the decent. "Third Pillar" is a great route, but summits do matter.
Posted Dec 10, 2002 10:02 pm

asmrzRoute Climbed: One That Almost Got Away, IV, 5.10 D, A2+ Date Climbed: Labor Day 1991


Miguel Carmona and I climbed a new route on the Center Headwall of Third Pillar in 1991. The route starts in a right curving dihedral at the base of the Pillar and higher up, follows the knifeblade cracks of the Headwall. The route is very aesthetic and recommended for someone, who already climbed the "Regular Route" and would like to try some free climbing mixed with a bit of aid, on a mini big wall. The 2 knifeblade crack sections could go free at 5.HARD. The setting is "Alpine Rock Par Excellence".
Posted Nov 15, 2002 3:00 pm

asmrzRoute Climbed: Third Pillar, Regular Route IV, 5.10A Date Climbed: Labor Day weekend 1984  Sucess!


Miguel Carmona and I climbed the "Regular Route" on Third Pillar in 1984. We thought it was one of the best alpine climbs we have done till then, anywhere. It helps that the route gets harder and harder as one climbs higher. Miguel just came back from doing the "NOSE" on El Capitan and felt the 5.9 pitch at the top, was just out of this world, aesthetically on the level with the Great Roof pitch on El Cap. Of course this was in the years, when 5.9/5.10 was respectable climbing. I read here that people just cruise it nowadays solo, wow...it's on this trip, that Miguel told me about climbing the central Headwall one day (see One that almost got away). I was so afraid of it, that it took us 7 years to do it. The Regular Route is another Eastern Sierra gem that should not be missed by anyone.
Posted Nov 15, 2002 2:31 pm

asmrzRoute Climbed: Dana Couloir Date Climbed: September 3rd, 1993


Elena Neubauer and I simo soloed the Dana Couloir in 1993 and scrambled to the top of Mt.Dana. From there we returned to the top of the couloir and followed the crest in westerly direction, back to Dana Plateau and Third Pillar. Elena wanted to see the Pillar from up close. We descended to our camp bellow Dana Couloir, packed the camp and returned to our campsite in Tuolumne Meadows.
Posted Nov 15, 2002 2:17 pm

dynoking21Route Climbed: Dana Couloir Date Climbed: November 2, 2002
Fun climb of Dana Couloir. Great weather, but cold. There was a lot of water ice in the couloir, but the bergrschrund was very easily passed. We used an ice tool and a mountaineering axe each, along with six screws and some nuts for belay anchors near the rock. As many people have said, it is very important to go over the summit. It looks like you can follow the broad ridge northwest to the Dana Plateau, but a crumbly cliff behind some pillars blocks your way. Go over the summit!
Posted Nov 4, 2002 10:25 pm

pilz8Route Climbed: standard Date Climbed: August 10 2002  Sucess!


Nice hike! The view would of been awesome but there was alot of smoke in the air. The whole owens valley was smokey this weekend.
Posted Sep 11, 2002 5:16 pm

scottybRoute Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: October 3 1999  Sucess!


Climbed with Matt and Dave
Posted Aug 26, 2002 11:06 pm

mpyleRoute Climbed: Standard Route Date Climbed: July 1993 (& previous)  Sucess!


On third trip up this mountain, dropped down the other side to the Gibbs-Dana saddle, and did Gibbs before returning to Tioga Pass. A long solo day (by my standards).
Posted Aug 10, 2002 2:44 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: Third Pillar of Dana Plateau (5.10a/b, III) Date Climbed: July 2, 2002


The summit of Mount Dana was not the objective on this climb. The fantastic Third Pillar was. This was a great climb and a fun free-solo. Trip report is here.
Posted Aug 2, 2002 6:37 pm

Joe HanssenRoute Climbed: West slope Date Climbed: Spring '98; Spring '01; April 26 '02  Sucess!

Joe Hanssen

Spring '98: West slope, ski descent of Dana Couloir. Climbed to the Dana Plateau and made a ski descent of the Third Pillar. The Third Pillar was between 50?-55? at the top, 4000' down to the Power house.

Spring '01: West slope, snowboard descent of Dana Couloir and Ellery Bowl. Solo

Spring '02: West slope, ski descent of Dana Couloir.
Posted Jul 29, 2002 10:30 am

JohnRoute Climbed: Dana Couloir Date Climbed: July 21, 2002


Fun climb with Dirk. Climbed in 5 pitches with the last being a low angle (25°?) snow walk to the top of the couloir. On the ice, I used a mixture of French technique, German technique, and the 3 o'clock position. For French and 3 o'clock, I used the cross-body axe technique which I found to be very effective. I haven't convinced myself to point my toes downward for French yet though ;-) We ended up using just one long axe each though we both brought an extra tool just in case. For pro, we brought 8 screws consisting of: BD Express, Grivel 360°, and Omega Pacific CR-MO (with coffee grinder handle). Like brandon, we opted not to summit ... which I now believe is harder (no trail all the way to Tioga Road and some 4-5th class downclimbing) and definately longer than going over the summit to descend via the standard use trail or Glacier Canyon (NW Ridge). If you do this route and don't descend the couloir, I agree with brandon: "go over the summit!!!!"
Posted Jul 22, 2002 8:39 pm

EthanVRoute Climbed: Dana Couloir Date Climbed: July 15, 2002  Sucess!
Solo Trip up Dana Couloir. This was a fun climb, with the season's first hint of true water ice. Actually, it was more than a hint, but rather a wide smear up the middle of the couloir for about 300-400 ft. Strangely, it was tougher than it would have been if it had been steeper. Perhaps I need to get better at my French technique, as Chouinard I am certainly not (also tough with a sore, recently twisted ankle, but no excuses...). So, I front pointed and found it not steep enough to use the picks on my axe.

Above the couloir, this mountain is a choss heap of the highest magnitude. The scramble up to the summit was brutally loose and nasty. The views are pretty hard to beat though and the couloir is worthwhile for an introduction to alpine ice climbing, but it's not nearly as interesting as say the North Couloir on North Peak in good condition (or maybe even the Crescent Moon on Round Top).
Posted Jul 15, 2002 9:42 am

keemaRoute Climbed: Dana Couloir Date Climbed: May 26


Stayed above the main Glacier Canyon trail most of the time. Went up the rocks above Dana Lake and traversed Dana Glacier to the base of the coulior. Except for one icy spot, the snow was perfect. Descended along the northwest ridge to the crag above Tioga Lake, where we had a few good glissade runs.
Posted May 27, 2002 6:44 am

yapRoute Climbed: Dana Couloir Date Climbed: May, 4th 2002  Sucess!


Climbed Dana couloir from Tioga Lake. Pascal, Giona and Yves-Alain.

Dana couloir is in perfect condition: hard snow, no ice. Thin layer of fresh snow.

Lack of snow just beneath Dana lake.

We also skied Ellery bowl. Snow in Ellery bowl is wet but skiing it is ok. Cornice is large on the west side. East side is without cornice.
Posted May 6, 2002 5:48 pm

dshoeRoute Climbed: Standard Trail Date Climbed: 09-03-00  Sucess!


Did this hike/climb as a day trip from/to Tioga Pass entrance station (Yosemite NP). Round-trip took about 6 hours, or so. Views from the top were very nice; could see all the major peaks on east side of Yosemite NP, and Mono Lake really well. Nice little day trip!
Posted Dec 21, 2001 8:42 am

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