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Mount Dana Climber's Log

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kovarpatrail  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2007


just to get some altitude in...
Posted Sep 14, 2007 1:23 am

danman3156Third Pillar
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007


The third pillar was an amazing climb, I can not think of anything better.
Posted Aug 28, 2007 7:09 pm

forjanDana Couloir 'quartet'  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007


Belayed the 'shrund pitch and then simulclimbed the rest with TINA TRETINA and along side the Daly's. Last 40 feet at the top of the couloir was melted out and dry (loose rock). Couloir was mostly neve transitioning to ice.

Route Climbed: Solstice Couloir (solo)
Date Climbed: September 17, 2006

Nearly after a 5 year absence to Mt. Dana's summit, I decided to climb the Solstice Couloir (after viewing Rob Yang's beta pictures from the previous weekend). I started from the Tioga Lake parking lot (9,750') at 7:00am. Arrived at the base of the Solstice couloir (11,500') by 9:00am. Heard and saw Kurt Wedberg with 2 clients heading for the Dana couloir. At 9:25am, I started up the couloir solo. Took me 65 minutes to finish it. I climbed all the way to 12,500' before I exited. I didn't have the b*lls to solo the last 15 feet of the couloir (it seemed 75+ degrees....corniced), so I exited to the left on some loose rock. It took me like 20 minutes to climb those last 20 feet of loose rock. Summited at 11:00am. Back to the car at Tioga Lake by 1:00pm (6 hrs roundtrip).

Route Climbed: Dana Couloir
Date Climbed: October 7, 2001

Dana couloir's ice was very hard. Cannot use pickets, only ice screws for anchors. Took Vince and I 4 pitches from the bergschrund to the notch. Dana couloir's bergschrund on south side was 25 ft high or so (on October 7, 2001). Great views of Mono Lake from Dana's summit.
Posted Aug 21, 2007 2:01 am

Dennis PoulinStandard Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007

Dennis Poulin

Nice hike late in the day after driving from Medford, Oregon.
Posted Aug 20, 2007 9:45 pm

Dave DalyDana Couloir.....Party Of Four!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007

Dave Daly

The quartet: Deb, Tina, Miguel, and yours truly. Got a late start on the couloir; mostly neve with some ice. The highlight and the crux: the berschund (25 feet of ice, up the left center).....nice lead Miguel! Slog to the summit and a bee-line to Whoa Nelli (where else?). A great day with friends!!
Posted Aug 20, 2007 11:53 am

NavySeabeeDana-Gibbs Meal Deal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2007


Made the climb from Tioga Pass in beautiful skies and gusty winds with my brother-in-law Dimitri. Descended to the Dana-Gibbs saddle to tag Mount Gibbs. Good warmup climb for our Whitney climb two days later.
Posted Aug 16, 2007 2:29 pm

emilieFrom Tioga Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2007


A bit of a boring hike - scree and talus field, no snow - but the views got better and better until the top. Saw a marmot and jack rabbit. I agree w/another climber below - I was speechless when I got to the top. I definitely felt the altitude but was feeling good for not having climbed much this year. Hope to be back to Yosemite soon...
Posted Aug 16, 2007 1:17 pm

Vertigo soulNW Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2007

Vertigo soul

A fun scramble up the NW slope. Took my girlfriend for her highest summit thus far. A beautiful day with no wind and great 360-degree views! Plan on returning, hopefully, next Spring/Summer for Dana Couloir.

6/5/10 - Skied the Dana Couloir and Ellery Bowl - another amazing Sierra spring (early summer) ski descent!
Posted Aug 6, 2007 11:22 am

Thomas Gurviezsolo by Dana couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2007

Thomas Gurviez

Ascentn by Dana couloir alone, completely icy above the bergshrund, descent by the normal route
Posted Jul 22, 2007 8:02 am

s_kavertRoute: NW Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2007


Climbed with my wife as a warmup for Mt. Shasta at the end of June. Got a late start and had to hurry due to clouds moving in. The views of the surrounding peaks and Mono Lake were definitely the highlight.
Posted Jul 3, 2007 12:36 pm

ryan_txJune Day Hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2007


Climbed this peak with 4 other buddies via NW route as a day hike in preparation for Half Dome two days later. A little tougher than we expected (me being a flatlander and all). Only a couple of people on the trail throughout the day. The marmots on the summit were very photogenic & active. The views from the top are excellent.
Posted Jul 1, 2007 3:26 pm

Fredd C DobbsFrom Tioga Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2007

Fredd C Dobbs

Lots of 'upside' to this peak including great vista photo ops. Unfortunatley my Kodak malfunctioned on half my shots. I guess I'll have to go back-next season.
Posted Jun 26, 2007 6:15 pm

J FoxDana Coloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 26, 2007

J Fox

My brother Jon and I climbed this on our Memorial Day bash in Yosemite. We used this as our acclimitization peak. The coulior was in great condition. We had a blast and great views from the summit. We descended via the walkers route.
Posted Jun 26, 2007 11:14 am

96avs01Alternate Destination  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 27, 2007


Dayhiked NW slope with the GF after slicing a tire on White Mtn. Road canceled plans to hit Telescope Peak. Great views and enjoyable conditions with minimal people for Memorial Day weekend!
Posted May 28, 2007 8:28 pm

Bill KishTrail from Tioga Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2005

Bill Kish

Early morning ascent with my dad in preparation for Whitney. The storm from the previous afternoon left a good amount of snow above 12,000' but my father insisted on the summit even in his old worn-out tennis shoes.
Posted May 20, 2007 11:32 pm

yaknjorglon the highway  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2006


nice view
Posted Apr 10, 2007 12:03 am

bcdspring snow  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2004


up the hiking trail and down the Solstice Couloir
Posted Mar 19, 2007 1:34 am

ripper333third pillar  Sucess!
climbed with tom grundy.. good for only 2 hours of sleep! got off just before nasty
weather moved in
Posted Jan 4, 2007 2:45 pm

muajeeFrom Tioga Pass  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006


A really fun hike.

The view seen from the summit was AWESOME - definitely one of my favorites! I was literally speechless while up there...

Somehow I missed the view of Dana Lake on the way up... ...heard it was amazing. It's o.k. I will be back. :)

Oh yeah, and we saw people snowboarding down. That certainly made a fast, I mean, really fast descent… ~_~
Posted Dec 20, 2006 4:45 am

rhyangDana Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 29, 2006


Soloed the Dana Couloir yet again, enthused by PellucidWombat's beta.

Sure enough, the couloir had lots of good neve, some blue ice in the upper half of the couloir in streaks and patches, some relatively new snow pockets, and some aerated white ice here and there. Schrund was most easily passable on left side.

Cold and windy day, but relatively clear. Dana Lake had a layer of ice, and I could see small icefalls forming on the north side of the peak.

In the summit register someone had noted an FA recently (within the last two weeks), something about 5.10b, crappy rock, WI5 ice ... hmm ...

Route Climbed: Solstice Couloir
Date Climbed: 9-Sept-2006

Started from Tioga Lake at 5am, got to moraine above Dana Lake around 7-ish, and had originally planned on soloing the Dana Couloir. But the Solstice looked filled in from bottom to top, and looked clean - none of the usual nasty rockfall I'd seen in it before.

Entered couloir around 7:30 at 11500'. Bottom half was ho-hum hard snow. Top half steepening neve, probably 45-50 degrees. The leftmost finger had a dramatic finish, maybe 75 degrees (?) for about 10-15'. To the right looked like some stuff that was overhanging, maybe the remains of a cornice...

Exited couloir around 8:45 around 12500', got to summit around 9:15 or so. Added new notebook to summit register.

Beautiful day, excellent views. Took the trail down to Tioga Pass and hoofed it back to the car (about a mile), returned before noon.

Route Climbed: Dana Couloir
Date Climbed: 25-September-2005

Solo. Got kind of a late start - didn't get to the moraine until 10am, bergschrund by 11, topped out around 12:15.

Couloir was still mostly good solid neve, but did have a nice patch of hard brittle water ice in the middle that stretched all the way across. There were also few patches of fresh powder from a small storm that had passed through earlier in the week.

Bergschrund could be crossed on left and right still - I tooled a bit on the schrund and then crossed it on the right, then traversed left to climb roughly the middle of the couloir. Took a rest on the ice around midway with an ice screw anchor (of course I'd also brought a harness and some slings just for that purpose).

The ice was hard. No wonder, my thermometer at Saddlebag Lake read around 20 deg F. It had to be in the teens overnight up there.

Instead of heading up to the summit, I intended to contour around to the Dana Plateau and descend from there. Somehow I got off the ridge and headed down a scree / talus gully back into the cirque, which wasn't too much fun. Next time I'm staying on the ridge ...

Solstice couloir looked like the top was melted out.

Date climbed: 12-Aug-2005
Route: Dana couloir

Started at oh-dark-thirty from Tioga Lake, bumbled around, but made my way up the boulderfields. A big patch of ice was exposed on the glacier, and I spent some time reviewing abalakov anchors (v-threads) in anticipation of this year's alpine ice season.

The bergschrund was open, though good snowbridges existed on the left & right sides. I went right, and began climbing the couloir proper at 9am.

A small strip of ice was present, maybe about 100', in the center left, high in the couloir. Got a couple of swings in with my ice tools to start the season out right.

Exited the couloir around 10. The summit register looked like it needed a new notebook. Took the tourist trail down.

Route Climbed: Dana Couloir
Date Climbed: 26-Sept-2004

Backpacked in to the lake below the glacier for a Fall Ice Seminar run by Sierra Mountain Center. Started next day around 5am, short-roped up the steeper part of the glacier to an anchor at the bergschrund, which we crossed towards the climber's left (crossing on the right looked hairy). The couloir itself was mostly neve on the right and left, but water ice in the center. Climbed up the left side in about 7-8 pitches to the scree on the saddle, had an early lunch, then went up the short scramble to the summit. Coming back down we descended a scree-filled class 3 gully to the lake, again short-roped. Fun !
Posted Oct 30, 2006 4:49 am

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