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Mount Daniel Climber's Log

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benRoute Climbed: Hyas Creek/Daniel Glacier Date Climbed: Spring, 1999  Sucess!

ben

A friend of mine wanted her first glacier experience, and Daniel seemed like a good choice from its description in Selected Climbs in the Cascades and the Beckey book. The mountain was starting to melt out when we were on it, but we still got some good snow camping in in the Hyas Creek basin before heading up. We ended up climbing high and right above the Hyas glacier because there was enough snow to do that safely, and we could avoid any crevasses that way.



Once we met back up with the Hyas Glacier, just before crossing the Daniel Glacier, we debated roping up for the traverse below the East peak because there was a huge crevasse 200 feet below our planned route, but there was also a big bergshrund that we could hook our axes in, and it seemed like the danger of rockfall was high enough that we wanted to race through that spot. We decided not to rope up, but the three parties behind us did rope up for the traverse.



Overall, Daniels is a beautiful, not-too-technical climb in the heart of the Alpine Lakes.
Posted Oct 5, 2001 3:29 pm

climbitRoute Climbed: W. Hyas Creek Basin Glacier Date Climbed: 8/22/2000  Sucess!

climbit

Climbed with a team of Spokane Mountaineers under Keith Howard. Started for the standard approach couloir between the prominent East Tower and the East Peak, but bagged it for an ascent directly up the W. Hyas Basin headwall / glacier remnant. It wasn't any easier but there was less scree-scrambling. Early season the other (standard) route should be all the way in snow also.



It was clear and beautiful, cold wind blowing the entire day; both the colors of the sky and rock and the bitter bright cold were almost unbelievable! A crisp clear fall day in the mountains. Everybody but me hit the Summit. I sacked out on the East Peak for a while and then beat it down with a solo climber and shot out of camp before the rest of the team returned to the East peak. Had an appointment to keep with my 5-year old daughter... :-)
Posted Jun 27, 2001 6:16 pm

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