Mount Darwin Climber's Log

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forjan

forjan - Sep 6, 2006 12:44 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2006

North Face/Glacier  Sucess!

Climbed with MichaelJ. Started hiking at 4:47am from our camp (elev ~ 11,800') near the eastern-most lake of Darwin Canyon. We simul-soloed from the base of the glacier to the top in 45 minutes as it was all neve. Reached the summit just before 8:00am. Descended via the west ridge. Back in camp at 10:43am (6 hrs camp-to-camp).

tiogap

tiogap - Jul 30, 2006 12:29 am Date Climbed: Jun 13, 1979

North Couloir

my first roped climb in the Sierra. we climbed one of the chutes on the north side. then climbed the ridge from Mendel to the summit block. I felt pretty exposed.

Robt

Robt - Dec 13, 2005 1:36 pm

Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: Aug. 2005  Sucess!

With Will Hurst. Rating could be downgraded to cl. 3.

Desert Solitaire

Desert Solitaire - Sep 13, 2005 8:52 pm

Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: September 9, 2005  Sucess!

Dayhike from Lk Sabrina. The 4th class chimney pitch on the NE ridge was a bit easier than I expected, but I was definitely glad I didn't attempt to downclimb it. It looked way tough to head down, so I dragged a rope and rapped off it as I became engulfed in a blinding snowstorm. Very surreal - it appeared and disappeared very quickly and as I packed up the rope at the bottom, it completely disappeared. Great climb! RT time: 12 hrs, 30 min.

Steve Larson

Steve Larson - Nov 5, 2004 11:11 pm

Route Climbed: North Buttress Date Climbed: July 4, 1978  Sucess!

This was my first "real" alpine climb. We made good time up the 4th-class N buttress, and then slowed down near the top. Crossing the snow gully was interesting. It was basically ice, and it bent the pick on my new MSR super light aluminum ice axe. Piece 'o crap. That was the last time I bought climbing gear from MSR. Their stoves are alright, though.



After tunneling through the summit overhangs, admiring the fossils on the summit plateau, and doing the summit pinnacle, we headed down. My partners wussed out on rapping the standard descent to the Darwin Glacier because there was some ice in the gully. So they insisted we walk down into Evolution Basin and then back up Darwin Canyon. Needless to say, we weren't back in camp that night. Froze my butt of. But oh, well. Live and learn. It was a great adventure nonetheless!

Samantha

Samantha - Aug 16, 2004 4:09 pm

Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: 8/11/04  Sucess!

This route reminds me why I love climbing mountains. Clean rock, fun route finding and great views!!! Thanks for a great trip Dave K!

Dave K - Aug 13, 2004 9:51 am

Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: August 11, 2004  Sucess!

This was a very enjoyable climb. There is some fine class 3-4 scrambling, especially in the lower section and along the arete below the top (although like most Sierra chutes, the gullies had some loose rocks). The weather was absolutely perfect. Kudos to my climbing partner Samantha for her safe climbing, great companionship, and perfect route finding.

bc44caesar

bc44caesar - Jul 24, 2004 5:23 pm

Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: 18 Jul 2004  Sucess!

Hiked to Evolution Basin from McClure Meadows in Evolution Valley and started up the West Face. Ended up picking the wrong gullies and ended up part way between Darwin and Mendel. After a long traverse over ribs and gullies finally made it to the summit plateau and did a few easy bouldering moves to reach the pinnacle! Weather was fantastic after getting blown off the Hermit two days earlier and weathering a storm to reach Muriel Peak the day before.

tiogap

tiogap - Jun 5, 2004 9:17 pm

Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: June, 1979  Sucess!

First time I roped up on a Sierra peak

RSN473

RSN473 - Mar 11, 2004 11:13 am

Route Climbed: North face Date Climbed: June 17, 2000  Sucess!

Very enjoyable climb - snow climbing, class 3 scrambling and the summit block. Climbed Mt. Mendel in afternoon

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Sep 23, 2002 10:16 am

Route Climbed: North East Ridge Date Climbed: 1976  Sucess!

A nice rock climb. Good pro and exposure. Climbed this with Alan Mead a month after I learned to climb. Alan died a week later in Ionian Basin as a result of complications from a bleeding ulcer.

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Sep 23, 2002 10:13 am

Route Climbed: The North Face Date Climbed: 1979  Sucess!

An excellent snow / ice climb - one of my favorite. Did this with Gary Hinton.

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Sep 23, 2002 10:11 am

Route Climbed: East Face - Right Side Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!

Found this a fun climb and my third time up Darwin. Video taped the whole ascent too.

markman - Feb 1, 2002 5:41 pm

Route Climbed: East face Date Climbed: Sept. 1991  Sucess!

Seemed mostly 3rd class.The summit pinnicle is a really bitchin spot!!

Bob Burd

Bob Burd - Aug 17, 2001 6:01 pm

Route Climbed: East Face, Right Side Date Climbed: Aug. 9, 2001  Sucess!

Day 6 of the Sierra Emblem Challenge 2001. Climbed as a dayhike from the Sabrina Lake TH, 12hr:40min roundtrip. The class 4 chimney on the NE ridge was a toughie!

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