Climbed West Ridge route with my cousin. Toughest move is transistion from glacier to rock. Lots of loose rock and ice though.
CBoldt1010 - Sep 9, 2009 12:59 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
West Ridge Route
Awesome peak!
granjero - Sep 8, 2009 6:54 pm Date Climbed: May 30, 2005
North Couloir
Excellent ski run. Fun climb too, but flying down the face is the dream come true!
sierratrekkin - Apr 2, 2008 8:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007
Darwin and North Lake to South Lake...
Started on the N.E. ridge, then ended climbing the majority of the East Face, with my bud "G" (snowhiker). Camped at the base of Darwin Glacier, and continued on around into Evolution Basin, exiting out via Dusy Basin. This was my second trip around this beautiful loop...
jimegan - Feb 8, 2008 8:04 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2003
MT DARWIN
CLIMBED WITH PAUL DANIEL ALONG WITH MT MENDELL FROM THE DARWIN GLACIER
Summitted via the ridge from Mendel, attempting to do the whole Evolution traverse. Bonked on top and bailed down a random gully on the west side. Next time: more food, lighter pack.
mike_lindacher - Sep 4, 2007 11:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2007
Smoked Salmon
No excuses, no excuses .......
Michael Graupe - Aug 16, 2007 12:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2007
West Ridge
Day 4, 2007 Sierra Challenge. Decided not to go to the Hermit but climbed the W-Ridge with Ryan S. The summit pinnacle is fun.
Deb - Jul 16, 2007 3:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2007
North Face Couloir
Loved this climb! I stayed as much as on ice possible and pulled a little mixed climbing in on the far right side. Summit block was easier to obtain than originally thought and views were stupendous even with impending rain clouds...that came later. Exited via West Ridge.
Dave Daly - Jul 16, 2007 10:23 am Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2007
Kick N' Axe!
Had a great time with Debbi and Rick Kent making our way up to the summit of Dawin via the North Face Couloir!! The upper half of the route was turning out to be a fine alpine ice climb (50 degrees in some places....mainly on the right side as the route splits right). Debbi did a fine job making that section of the climb look easy, while Rick and I pleaded with the "Ice God's" to allow our crampons and axes to bite into the ice :P (should have filed those tools before heading out!). What a great finish too.....we exited the right fork and straight up to exposed rock (4th class and probably would have been covered with snow had it not been a dry winter in 2006/2007) and eventually headed to the summit block to top out. I highly recommend this climb! Classic!
Perfect neve on the face with some alpine ice in the narrow couloir just below the summit plateau. We descended the Northwest Ridge route and then I climbed Mendel via the East Face. 12.5 hour roundtrip from the North Lake parking area. What a sweet route on a sweet mountain!
asmrz - Jan 27, 2007 7:26 pm Date Climbed: Oct 26, 1980
North Face
Miguel Carmona and I climbed the North side glacier in October of 1980 while climbing other peaks in and around Darwin/Mendel area. 35-40 degree ice on the face made for a great day of scrambling around with a great partner.
dervin - Jan 27, 2007 5:07 pm Date Climbed: Nov 23, 2006
North Face Epic
Turkey is for the weak. There is nothing like cold feet, and desolate mountains to make you give thanks.
yaknjorgl - Jan 2, 2007 6:57 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2006
west ridge
its great climbing a big mountain you can see from town.
went up in june looking for ideal north face conditions, but moved too slow and conditions weren't right. My buddy jeff thought he'd just solo up the north face, fortunately i talked him out of it then we watched the point avalanches hammer the north face through the thunder storm on the way out and over lamark col.
went back again with jeff and steve, it took along time to get from lamark col to darwin bench and camp. the glacier was icy and blue the next morning, jeffs crampon kept coming off.
One of teh best climbs ever. beautiful position on the west ridge, ez moves, fantastic views. we thought the summit block would be tougher than it was. 36 hours car to car.
a dream come true.
Matthew Holliman - Dec 1, 2006 4:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006
North Face (ascent) / West Ridge (descent)
Dayhiked this with Rob (below). We weren't sure whether we'd find ice on the North Face, so we hauled along harnesses, short rope, ice screws, etc... this was all just useless training weight. I brought an axe and one tool, but used only the axe in the end. Snow was in perfect condition for climbing, and no more than 45 degrees (maybe a couple of very short bulges that approach 50 degrees) at the steepest parts.
The summit block was fun (much easier than it looks at first--we went around to the left), as was the West Ridge descent. Encountered a tricky class 4 move (and some rap slings) before reaching the final class 2 ledges down to the glacier, so we were probably off route on the West Ridge. (Maybe the class 3 route lies further west when starting up from the glacier).
In my opinion, at least when it's a snow climb, the North Face is undoubtedly the easiest and quickest route up the peak.
Some clouds in the sky, but they never developed into anything more threatening than some light hail on the way back over Lamarck Col.
This was a grudge peak for me--I bailed on it when climbing Mendel last year because of threatening weather, and gave up on it in July when I attempted it immediately after flying back from China (major jet lag, and I got off route onto difficult 4th class while trying to gain the West Ridge). Glad to knock this one off. I'd like to go back for the NE Ridge or East Face sometime.
Daria - Aug 16, 2010 4:12 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2008
good climbObnoxious scree ascent in certain areas, but cool (alternate) summit blocks
kraymes - Jul 2, 2010 6:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 1992
East FaceDid the North Face the day after with Todd, while J&M went and did Mendel.
lefty - Sep 20, 2009 11:56 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2009
East Face- right SideClimbed the loose East Face from Darwin col.
jboldt1971 - Sep 13, 2009 10:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
Fun climb!Climbed West Ridge route with my cousin. Toughest move is transistion from glacier to rock. Lots of loose rock and ice though.
CBoldt1010 - Sep 9, 2009 12:59 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
West Ridge RouteAwesome peak!
granjero - Sep 8, 2009 6:54 pm Date Climbed: May 30, 2005
North CouloirExcellent ski run. Fun climb too, but flying down the face is the dream come true!
sierratrekkin - Apr 2, 2008 8:05 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007
Darwin and North Lake to South Lake...Started on the N.E. ridge, then ended climbing the majority of the East Face, with my bud "G" (snowhiker). Camped at the base of Darwin Glacier, and continued on around into Evolution Basin, exiting out via Dusy Basin. This was my second trip around this beautiful loop...
jimegan - Feb 8, 2008 8:04 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2003
MT DARWINCLIMBED WITH PAUL DANIEL ALONG WITH MT MENDELL FROM THE DARWIN GLACIER
Sheets - Jan 27, 2008 9:30 pm
North FaceDid the North Face in July as part of a day hike in 12 and half hours car to car.
I really enjoyed the climb and came back when the North Face was under ice conditions
and soloed it car to car in the fall.
glahhg - Sep 5, 2007 4:25 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007
Evolution Traverse AttemptSummitted via the ridge from Mendel, attempting to do the whole Evolution traverse. Bonked on top and bailed down a random gully on the west side. Next time: more food, lighter pack.
mike_lindacher - Sep 4, 2007 11:19 am Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2007
Smoked SalmonNo excuses, no excuses .......
Michael Graupe - Aug 16, 2007 12:08 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2007
West RidgeDay 4, 2007 Sierra Challenge. Decided not to go to the Hermit but climbed the W-Ridge with Ryan S. The summit pinnacle is fun.
Deb - Jul 16, 2007 3:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2007
North Face CouloirLoved this climb! I stayed as much as on ice possible and pulled a little mixed climbing in on the far right side. Summit block was easier to obtain than originally thought and views were stupendous even with impending rain clouds...that came later. Exited via West Ridge.
Dave Daly - Jul 16, 2007 10:23 am Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2007
Kick N' Axe!Had a great time with Debbi and Rick Kent making our way up to the summit of Dawin via the North Face Couloir!! The upper half of the route was turning out to be a fine alpine ice climb (50 degrees in some places....mainly on the right side as the route splits right). Debbi did a fine job making that section of the climb look easy, while Rick and I pleaded with the "Ice God's" to allow our crampons and axes to bite into the ice :P (should have filed those tools before heading out!). What a great finish too.....we exited the right fork and straight up to exposed rock (4th class and probably would have been covered with snow had it not been a dry winter in 2006/2007) and eventually headed to the summit block to top out. I highly recommend this climb! Classic!
snowhiker - Jul 15, 2007 7:05 pm
Kick ass timeI had a killer time on this Mountain with Rob we did the northeast ridge to the traverse then we went up the east face. Thanks Rob
Pantilat - Jul 9, 2007 1:07 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007
North FacePerfect neve on the face with some alpine ice in the narrow couloir just below the summit plateau. We descended the Northwest Ridge route and then I climbed Mendel via the East Face. 12.5 hour roundtrip from the North Lake parking area. What a sweet route on a sweet mountain!
asmrz - Jan 27, 2007 7:26 pm Date Climbed: Oct 26, 1980
North FaceMiguel Carmona and I climbed the North side glacier in October of 1980 while climbing other peaks in and around Darwin/Mendel area. 35-40 degree ice on the face made for a great day of scrambling around with a great partner.
dervin - Jan 27, 2007 5:07 pm Date Climbed: Nov 23, 2006
North Face EpicTurkey is for the weak. There is nothing like cold feet, and desolate mountains to make you give thanks.
yaknjorgl - Jan 2, 2007 6:57 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2006
west ridgeits great climbing a big mountain you can see from town.
went up in june looking for ideal north face conditions, but moved too slow and conditions weren't right. My buddy jeff thought he'd just solo up the north face, fortunately i talked him out of it then we watched the point avalanches hammer the north face through the thunder storm on the way out and over lamark col.
went back again with jeff and steve, it took along time to get from lamark col to darwin bench and camp. the glacier was icy and blue the next morning, jeffs crampon kept coming off.
One of teh best climbs ever. beautiful position on the west ridge, ez moves, fantastic views. we thought the summit block would be tougher than it was. 36 hours car to car.
a dream come true.
Matthew Holliman - Dec 1, 2006 4:34 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2006
North Face (ascent) / West Ridge (descent)Dayhiked this with Rob (below). We weren't sure whether we'd find ice on the North Face, so we hauled along harnesses, short rope, ice screws, etc... this was all just useless training weight. I brought an axe and one tool, but used only the axe in the end. Snow was in perfect condition for climbing, and no more than 45 degrees (maybe a couple of very short bulges that approach 50 degrees) at the steepest parts.
The summit block was fun (much easier than it looks at first--we went around to the left), as was the West Ridge descent. Encountered a tricky class 4 move (and some rap slings) before reaching the final class 2 ledges down to the glacier, so we were probably off route on the West Ridge. (Maybe the class 3 route lies further west when starting up from the glacier).
In my opinion, at least when it's a snow climb, the North Face is undoubtedly the easiest and quickest route up the peak.
Some clouds in the sky, but they never developed into anything more threatening than some light hail on the way back over Lamarck Col.
This was a grudge peak for me--I bailed on it when climbing Mendel last year because of threatening weather, and gave up on it in July when I attempted it immediately after flying back from China (major jet lag, and I got off route onto difficult 4th class while trying to gain the West Ridge). Glad to knock this one off. I'd like to go back for the NE Ridge or East Face sometime.