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Mount Edith Cavell Climber's Log

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Matt LemkeSolo east ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2017

Matt Lemke

Solod up the east ridge in 4.5 hours from the car. Beautiful sunrise on route, but fogged in on the summit. Waited on top for 2 hours to no avail. Descending the west ridge, it quickly cleared up and the views were stunning.
Posted Aug 5, 2017 10:29 pm

Old School WBEast Ridge   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2008

Old School WB

Dry rock, but lots of snow on final summit ridge. Great day trip (11 hours car to car) with Trevor Bueckert and Steve McCartney.
Posted Oct 6, 2011 5:56 pm

Steve LarsonNorth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2010

Steve Larson

A 17-hour extravaganza with Barry Blanchard in the lead. Topped out after midnight by headlamp. Descent through the night and into the next morning. Back up to the Angel Glacier the next day to retrieve our bivy gear.
Posted Aug 8, 2010 12:08 am

ShanoRe: North Face


wow, thats badass. After reading about the descent I'm having second thoughts about going back for this one. I dont think we got more than about 500ft up the face before getting BOMBED off. Would you call this a recommended route?
Posted Apr 9, 2012 8:35 pm

Shanofailed N. Face
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2009


date uncertain (hey, i was on vacation!...)

After a 3am start w/ Aurora Borealis overhead (spectacular!) and getting thru the approach cliffbands (not too bad) we made it to the start of the N. Face route ~0730. High pressure overhead and a bright sunny day led to D-Day CanRockies style. We got about 500ft up before deciding we weren't that enthused about dying on vacation.
Both of us experienced too-close calls with bombs raining down perpetually. Bad scene, bad timing.

Bailing from that point wasn't much better but at least we were out of the line of fire and alive.

Note to self - pray for cold weather next time (and there WILL be a next time.)
Posted Aug 23, 2009 10:26 pm

ArankaP Route Climbed: East Ridge with Brian (Dunsum) and Lubos  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2008


We climbed on a stormy day in early season conditions with lots of snow and ice. Descended the West Ridge which was a long slog, but under the circumstances, better than trying to go down the East Ridge.
Posted Mar 5, 2009 12:37 am

caputakaEast Ridge - again
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2008


Car to car 10.5 hours, shaved off 5 hours from trip 4 years ago. Mostly due to better route finding, short roping/simul-climbing and unroped climbing. 19C at 3300m, on such a hot day, there was soft snow and the crampons stayed in the bag. Despite the loose rubble, I still enjoy the descent down the West Ridge for a complete traverse.
Posted Aug 21, 2008 10:45 am

Steve LarsonEast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2008

Steve Larson

Climbed in less than optimal conditions with Bill Nootens. The upper ridge took a while, though we simulclimbed most of it. Lots of snow that could not be avoided. Kept having to pull the axe out and put it away to negotiate the bigger drifts. A beautiful day out though.Need I mention how tedious the West Ridge descent is?
Posted Aug 6, 2008 12:38 am

dunsumEast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2008


Fantastic route! We climbed on a stormy day in early season conditions with lots of snow and ice but, fortunately, dry rock. Decscended the West Ridge which was a long slog, but under the circumstances, better than trying to go down the East Ridge. This is a great route.
Posted Jul 27, 2008 4:14 pm

MtnMagicEast Ridge  Sucess!


Climbed this during a very warm summer. Almost no snow on route. Did not use crampons or even ice axe. A great route although there was a large quantity of loose rock above the solid quartz crux step (5.3 climbing on large positive holds). Long slog back after downclimbing the West Ridge.
Posted Oct 14, 2007 1:21 pm

GeofflampW Ridge...hmmm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2006


Lousy weather, went up the W Ridge tourist route. Won't do it again. Long, not much for views until you hit the ridge, and then it's less-than-stellar shale to the top. Although the 'quartzite gully' rock was solid, it was primarily big, tedious, rickety boulders. Nevertheless, still a grand day out... albeit long...
Posted Mar 11, 2007 3:30 am

chrisferroE. Ridge Simul-Solo  Sucess!


Pedro Espina and I left the hostel at the bottom of the mountain at about 4:00am and in about 2 hours we were up at the col where the East ridge starts. We brought harnesses and a rope but never put them on. The climbing was hiking at first, then scrambling, and the upper portion was easy 5th class for 200 feet or so, but we just kept moving and we were on the top by 10am. The really long part of the day was the descent down the West ridge and the long, long hike back. It's a great route, with nice exposure in spots and beautiful views in all directions.
Posted Jan 11, 2007 4:00 pm

climbwildE Ridge Solo attempt


Failed when storm moved in and forced me to downclimb in a whiteout, trail blown over, zero visibility. Nearly fell down the North Face, resulting in sphincter lock for the next 3 days.

For a comprehensive study of Mt. Edith Cavell with many photos, see Mt. Edith Cavell on my personal adventure website, climbwild.net/
Posted Apr 15, 2006 7:00 pm

RileywynaRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 2002


Got a late start and once my sister saw the ridge from the base she got a over whelmed. So we turned right and bagged a few peaks instead. Now that she has soloed Sir Donald I want to go back with her and summit this spectacular mountain.
Posted Dec 19, 2005 5:58 am

AndinistalocoRoute Climbed: standard Date Climbed: summer 2002  Sucess!


Bad weather forced me to abandon the east ridge and go this way instead. Still, a long, aestetic route... incredible views down the north face!
Posted Aug 11, 2005 8:11 pm

brandonRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: July 24, 2004  Sucess!


Solo with Andrew in 4:40 from the car. Lots of folks behind us, but we had the mtn and summit and descent down W Ridge to ourselves. Beautiful climbing.
Posted Jul 30, 2004 4:46 pm

jeffnRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 26, 2003  Sucess!
Never saw the peak until the way down. Worth all the moraine scrambling on the way in.
Posted Sep 7, 2003 6:08 pm

e_wireRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 2001


Straight forward climb. Approach took some 3 hours. After a large boulder felt on my partners hand, braking 3 fingers and exposing a lot of skin, we had to turn around. We reached the last big plateau (seen on the picture). Return proved to be a challenge with a broken hand! It was a long day, including the wait at the Jasper hospital...
Posted Jun 10, 2003 11:56 am

abogaRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: Summer of 199?  Sucess!


Really sweet ridge, apparently with wonderful views. Unfortunately we spent the day in clouds and never had more than a hundred or so meters of visibility.. doh!
Posted Aug 26, 2002 1:53 pm

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