Herb - Sep 11, 2006 8:24 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2006
Standard route (Pastukhova rocks - saddle - west summit - botchkis)
Beautiful climb - amazing sunrise! We had good conditions (some fresh-fallen snow, but not too much) and very good weather (sunny and fairly warm) up to the saddle. Then clouds and fog appeared and we had to speed up a little bit. Went with a german tour operator. Reached the west summit with six other group members and our incredibly competent and likeable guides: Ralf Dujmovits and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner - two of the currently best high-altitude mountaineers in the world! We had the summit for ourselves for more than half an hour. For a few moments the clouds opened and we got a view of the blue sky above 5.600 meters. :o)
Four of our group had to turn back during the climb (mountain sickness, exhaustion, stomach problems...) - our local guide Eugen took care of them. During the descent we had fog and clouds continuously.
JanVanGenk - Aug 2, 2006 8:10 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2006
Route Climbed: Normal route
Summited the west peak in whiteout and blizzard. Previous night spent in a crevasse near the saddle. I climbed the whole route on skis and then descended from the summit (nearly zero visibility until the saddle). Summited the east peak a few days earlier.
Olaf - Jul 22, 2006 8:58 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2006
Route climbed: Normal to West Summit
Perfect climb to the summit. Two days of waiting paid off. The first day we were surprised by a thunderstorm at 4900 meters and ran down the slope like crazy.
We had really nice weather although a strong and very cold wind.
From the P. Rocks to summit took 5 hours.
Thanks to Pilgrim Tours and our guide Sergei.
alexclimb - Jul 20, 2006 5:43 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006
Route Climbed: Southhern route. West summit
After 6 days of acclimatization and couple of days down in the valley with four clients I started the Elbrus ascent from Priyut 11 and climbed the West summit quite easily in 6 hours. The weather was OK, a bit cold (-20C on the Seddle), moderate wind, good visibility. Planty of fresh snow on the Seddle.
Route Climbed: Main Route Date Climbed: August 16th 2005
Perfect summit day! Gale blowing on top but no clouds! Much better than my attempt in 2002 when we abandoned the climb above the saddle in a really bad blizzard
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 11 - 18 of August 2001
Great trip a little difficult to get to the mountain from Aberdeen Scotland though : 3 planes, 1 Bus, 3 cars including taxies, 1 cable car and a chairlift and that’s just to the start.
Acclimatization was done on MT Cheget and at the Observatory.
Route Climbed: ordinary route from Prijut 11 Date Climbed: Aug of 1990
Ascent after 3 days of fight (on second day I couldn't make a step upstairs on the saddle between W and E summits) with frozen fingers and burnt face, but I was happy on the W summit which is on the edge of former volcano crater.
The Caucasus mountains are awesome. I should have brought my skis, this is a skiable mountain from the summit. Summit day was perfect until I reached 5200m. The clouds came in with the winds, visibility was about 5 feet. We still reached the summit though. The Russians were really nice.
Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 20th 2005
We left the Priot huts at 3:00 AM and reached the Western Summit at 10:30 AM -- We were back to Priot huts by 11:00 Am and drinking beer at the bottom of the mountan by 2:00 PM.. Tempertures when we left for the summit were very cold and windy just before saddle - But when we reached the top it was warm 35 degrees F -- a great day! - Marc Goddard / Bio Bio Expeditions
Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: 3 july 2004
First I have to say that this is a mountain very windy. Second, if you go in Caucasus only for Elbrus it`s a shame because in that area you have alot of peaks that are more beautiful than this one.
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July 2002
Summited via normal route. My first "big" mountain. Just before the saddle I thought that there could not be far left, so went with all guns blazing. Boy did I regret that. Was so tired and feeling like shit that I turned around on the summit plateau, maybe 5-8 minutes from summit. Our guide convinced me to turn around again and I got to the summit and vommitted. Left after 5 minutes or something like that.
Route Climbed: Normal route from Azau Date Climbed: 2004 07 07
Overslept and left the camp 100vert/m higher than Priot 11 at 08:00. Five Hours later I was on the summit of Elbrus. Nice views. A bit windy, - 11 C on the summit.
Route Climbed: Normal to West Summit Date Climbed: 27 June 2004
We spent one week on the mountain. Very stormy (lightning) and white-out conditions also. Ascent day was nice but it was just one nice day! Way to summit tooks 8 hours from Prijut and descending 4 hours if you've good aclimatization.
Herb - Sep 11, 2006 8:24 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2006
Standard route (Pastukhova rocks - saddle - west summit - botchkis)Beautiful climb - amazing sunrise! We had good conditions (some fresh-fallen snow, but not too much) and very good weather (sunny and fairly warm) up to the saddle. Then clouds and fog appeared and we had to speed up a little bit. Went with a german tour operator. Reached the west summit with six other group members and our incredibly competent and likeable guides: Ralf Dujmovits and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner - two of the currently best high-altitude mountaineers in the world! We had the summit for ourselves for more than half an hour. For a few moments the clouds opened and we got a view of the blue sky above 5.600 meters. :o)
Four of our group had to turn back during the climb (mountain sickness, exhaustion, stomach problems...) - our local guide Eugen took care of them. During the descent we had fog and clouds continuously.
JanVanGenk - Aug 2, 2006 8:10 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2006
Route Climbed: Normal routeSummited the west peak in whiteout and blizzard. Previous night spent in a crevasse near the saddle. I climbed the whole route on skis and then descended from the summit (nearly zero visibility until the saddle). Summited the east peak a few days earlier.
Olaf - Jul 22, 2006 8:58 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2006
Route climbed: Normal to West SummitPerfect climb to the summit. Two days of waiting paid off. The first day we were surprised by a thunderstorm at 4900 meters and ran down the slope like crazy.
We had really nice weather although a strong and very cold wind.
From the P. Rocks to summit took 5 hours.
Thanks to Pilgrim Tours and our guide Sergei.
alexclimb - Jul 20, 2006 5:43 am Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006
Route Climbed: Southhern route. West summitAfter 6 days of acclimatization and couple of days down in the valley with four clients I started the Elbrus ascent from Priyut 11 and climbed the West summit quite easily in 6 hours. The weather was OK, a bit cold (-20C on the Seddle), moderate wind, good visibility. Planty of fresh snow on the Seddle.
MoT - Dec 22, 2005 8:28 am
Route Climbed: Main Route Date Climbed: August 16th 2005Perfect summit day! Gale blowing on top but no clouds! Much better than my attempt in 2002 when we abandoned the climb above the saddle in a really bad blizzard
rdesota - Dec 1, 2005 12:23 am
Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: August 10, 2004cold but great summit day. Earlier in the season seems like a great ski down...
philippe bridgeman - Nov 29, 2005 7:08 am
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 11 - 18 of August 2001Great trip a little difficult to get to the mountain from Aberdeen Scotland though : 3 planes, 1 Bus, 3 cars including taxies, 1 cable car and a chairlift and that’s just to the start.
Acclimatization was done on MT Cheget and at the Observatory.
EQUUS - Nov 6, 2005 6:43 pm
Route Climbed: ordinary route from Prijut 11 Date Climbed: Aug of 1990Ascent after 3 days of fight (on second day I couldn't make a step upstairs on the saddle between W and E summits) with frozen fingers and burnt face, but I was happy on the W summit which is on the edge of former volcano crater.
redwards - Oct 28, 2005 10:55 am
Route Climbed: South Face to West Summit Date Climbed: July 08, 2005Summited at 10:58 am. Guided by Pilgrim Tours.
MikeW - Oct 25, 2005 4:46 pm
Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: August 2004The Caucasus mountains are awesome. I should have brought my skis, this is a skiable mountain from the summit. Summit day was perfect until I reached 5200m. The clouds came in with the winds, visibility was about 5 feet. We still reached the summit though. The Russians were really nice.
flying_naffie - Aug 27, 2005 7:02 am
Route Climbed: north route Date Climbed: 15 Aug 2005Perfect day , 10 hours to reach the summit from high camp at about 3650m.
Anders Holm - Aug 11, 2005 7:05 pm
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 06 Aug 2005Started at 02:00 from the campsite above the barrels. Reached the summit in excellent weather with spectacular views of the Caucasus at 11:00.
Nadios - Aug 11, 2005 4:45 pm
Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 2005 August 7Camped at 4400m. Excellent weather, but too hot all the way to the saddle. This time I climbed the peak all the way from Azau. No cabin, no lift.
h2omarc - Jul 24, 2005 10:54 am
Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 20th 2005We left the Priot huts at 3:00 AM and reached the Western Summit at 10:30 AM -- We were back to Priot huts by 11:00 Am and drinking beer at the bottom of the mountan by 2:00 PM.. Tempertures when we left for the summit were very cold and windy just before saddle - But when we reached the top it was warm 35 degrees F -- a great day! - Marc Goddard / Bio Bio Expeditions
chapter11 - Jun 8, 2005 5:06 pm
Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 5/29/05Perfect summit day. 10 hours round trip from the Barrel Huts. Thanks Pilgrim Tours!
cristakhe - May 5, 2005 9:12 am
Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: 3 july 2004First I have to say that this is a mountain very windy. Second, if you go in Caucasus only for Elbrus it`s a shame because in that area you have alot of peaks that are more beautiful than this one.
melindahalasz - Apr 14, 2005 3:40 pm
Route Climbed: normal routes, East and West Peak Date Climbed: 27 Aug 2003Changeable weather and snow conditions. The upper part was quite windy.
Great experience!
Vangse - Jan 20, 2005 2:08 am
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: July 2002Summited via normal route. My first "big" mountain. Just before the saddle I thought that there could not be far left, so went with all guns blazing. Boy did I regret that. Was so tired and feeling like shit that I turned around on the summit plateau, maybe 5-8 minutes from summit. Our guide convinced me to turn around again and I got to the summit and vommitted. Left after 5 minutes or something like that.
Nadios - Dec 18, 2004 12:41 pm
Route Climbed: Normal route from Azau Date Climbed: 2004 07 07Overslept and left the camp 100vert/m higher than Priot 11 at 08:00. Five Hours later I was on the summit of Elbrus. Nice views. A bit windy, - 11 C on the summit.
sokolxxx - Oct 31, 2004 6:19 pm
Route Climbed: Normal to West Summit Date Climbed: 27 June 2004We spent one week on the mountain. Very stormy (lightning) and white-out conditions also. Ascent day was nice but it was just one nice day! Way to summit tooks 8 hours from Prijut and descending 4 hours if you've good aclimatization.