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Mount Elbrus Climber's Log

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Park5.6The "pretty standard" route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2002


A fine climb, with an ass-numbing glissade that lasted 20 minutes and 2,500 vertical feet...
Posted Apr 16, 2007 2:37 am

missadventureNormal Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2006


Finally summited on the 20th after a previous aborted attempt on the 13th and waiting for the storms to clear.
Made arrangements through Pilgrim Tours light package, which was a great deal. I am eternally grateful to the many cooks at the barrels whose Russian hospitality and generosity was amazing.
Don't underestimate the objective hazards of this mountain. Climb into a storm at your own peril. A fall above the P Rocks could be fatal when the ice is exposed, as it was when I was there. If you are not self sufficient, make sure your guide knows what they are doing. Make sure you bring a GPS - finding the route down in a storm will be nearly impossible and put you onto crevasse filled terrain.

Posted Feb 24, 2007 4:49 am

incrediblesnowmanRoute climbed: Normal  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2004


A hot and long day. The weather was better on the summit with nice ice cold winds and clear views.
Posted Feb 13, 2007 2:22 am

bruno baschungnormal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2006

bruno baschung

I climbed Elbruz west peak with Griselda MORENO (from SALTA) in a french lead commercial expedition, 13 years after a first climb of the east peak reached in may 1993 with skis in very poor conditions.

A beautiful mountain, but what a shame there's so much garbage to be cleaned in Priut hut! Please care a bout the environment, all the more as it's easy to remove all this mess!

Posted Dec 19, 2006 7:53 pm

benjohnsonStandard Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006


Kind of depressing to see the snowcats pass you on summit-day morning, but a beautiful, cold, windy summit. (And a great sunrise from Pashtuhova Rocks)
Posted Oct 15, 2006 5:53 pm

OutdoorpartnerThird try was a charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006


On the third day we pushed through and climbed above the storm. Thanks to Vern Tejas and Alpine Ascents.
Posted Oct 5, 2006 5:20 am

HerbStandard route (Pastukhova rocks - saddle - west summit - botchkis)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2006


Beautiful climb - amazing sunrise! We had good conditions (some fresh-fallen snow, but not too much) and very good weather (sunny and fairly warm) up to the saddle. Then clouds and fog appeared and we had to speed up a little bit. Went with a german tour operator. Reached the west summit with six other group members and our incredibly competent and likeable guides: Ralf Dujmovits and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner - two of the currently best high-altitude mountaineers in the world! We had the summit for ourselves for more than half an hour. For a few moments the clouds opened and we got a view of the blue sky above 5.600 meters. :o)
Four of our group had to turn back during the climb (mountain sickness, exhaustion, stomach problems...) - our local guide Eugen took care of them. During the descent we had fog and clouds continuously.
Posted Sep 11, 2006 8:24 am

JanVanGenkRoute Climbed: Normal route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2006


Summited the west peak in whiteout and blizzard. Previous night spent in a crevasse near the saddle. I climbed the whole route on skis and then descended from the summit (nearly zero visibility until the saddle). Summited the east peak a few days earlier.
Posted Aug 2, 2006 8:10 pm

OlafRoute climbed: Normal to West Summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2006


Perfect climb to the summit. Two days of waiting paid off. The first day we were surprised by a thunderstorm at 4900 meters and ran down the slope like crazy.
We had really nice weather although a strong and very cold wind.
From the P. Rocks to summit took 5 hours.
Thanks to Pilgrim Tours and our guide Sergei.
Posted Jul 22, 2006 8:58 pm

alexclimbRoute Climbed: Southhern route. West summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006


After 6 days of acclimatization and couple of days down in the valley with four clients I started the Elbrus ascent from Priyut 11 and climbed the West summit quite easily in 6 hours. The weather was OK, a bit cold (-20C on the Seddle), moderate wind, good visibility. Planty of fresh snow on the Seddle.
Posted Jul 20, 2006 5:43 am

MoTRoute Climbed: Main Route Date Climbed: August 16th 2005  Sucess!


Perfect summit day! Gale blowing on top but no clouds! Much better than my attempt in 2002 when we abandoned the climb above the saddle in a really bad blizzard
Posted Dec 22, 2005 8:28 am

rdesotaRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: August 10, 2004  Sucess!


cold but great summit day. Earlier in the season seems like a great ski down...
Posted Dec 1, 2005 12:23 am

philippe bridgemanRoute Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 11 - 18 of August 2001  Sucess!

philippe bridgeman

Great trip a little difficult to get to the mountain from Aberdeen Scotland though : 3 planes, 1 Bus, 3 cars including taxies, 1 cable car and a chairlift and that’s just to the start.

Acclimatization was done on MT Cheget and at the Observatory.

Posted Nov 29, 2005 7:08 am

EQUUSRoute Climbed: ordinary route from Prijut 11 Date Climbed: Aug of 1990  Sucess!


Ascent after 3 days of fight (on second day I couldn't make a step upstairs on the saddle between W and E summits) with frozen fingers and burnt face, but I was happy on the W summit which is on the edge of former volcano crater.
Posted Nov 6, 2005 6:43 pm

redwardsRoute Climbed: South Face to West Summit Date Climbed: July 08, 2005  Sucess!


Summited at 10:58 am. Guided by Pilgrim Tours.
Posted Oct 28, 2005 10:55 am

MikeWRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: August 2004  Sucess!


The Caucasus mountains are awesome. I should have brought my skis, this is a skiable mountain from the summit. Summit day was perfect until I reached 5200m. The clouds came in with the winds, visibility was about 5 feet. We still reached the summit though. The Russians were really nice.
Posted Oct 25, 2005 4:46 pm

flying_naffieRoute Climbed: north route Date Climbed: 15 Aug 2005  Sucess!
Perfect day , 10 hours to reach the summit from high camp at about 3650m.
Posted Aug 27, 2005 7:02 am

Anders HolmRoute Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 06 Aug 2005  Sucess!

Anders Holm

Started at 02:00 from the campsite above the barrels. Reached the summit in excellent weather with spectacular views of the Caucasus at 11:00.
Posted Aug 11, 2005 7:05 pm

NadiosRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 2005 August 7  Sucess!


Camped at 4400m. Excellent weather, but too hot all the way to the saddle. This time I climbed the peak all the way from Azau. No cabin, no lift.
Posted Aug 11, 2005 4:45 pm

h2omarcRoute Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 20th 2005  Sucess!
We left the Priot huts at 3:00 AM and reached the Western Summit at 10:30 AM -- We were back to Priot huts by 11:00 Am and drinking beer at the bottom of the mountan by 2:00 PM.. Tempertures when we left for the summit were very cold and windy just before saddle - But when we reached the top it was warm 35 degrees F -- a great day! - Marc Goddard / Bio Bio Expeditions
Posted Jul 24, 2005 10:54 am

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