John Muir Wilderness > Mount Emerson > Climber's LogMount Emerson Climber's Log
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| jscheingross | SE Face  Date Climbed: May 19, 2013 | |
| My first time on this route and it was awesome. I wanted to add a few notes with info on current conditions and general beta that I found hard to find before the climb. 1. Current conditions: The route, approach, and descent are all currently snow free, we brought crampons and ice axes, but never needed them (note this is an exceptionally low snow year, so in future years, I imagine there could still be a lot of snow on the route in May). The first pitch had some small frozen icicles on it, but was more or less dry. There was some running water/melting snow in a few places on the scramble up the ridge, and we were able to squeeze out an extra liter of water from one of these small running trickles. 2. More beta (especially for those who want to pitch it out) We were slow on this route (19.5 hours car to car) because we stopped to pitch a lot of it out. The starting section can be done in 2 pitches (1 pitch for the 5.4 chimney to start, 1 pitch for the class 4, with some scrambling in between). Note with a 60 m rope, we tried (and failed) to link the 5.4 chimney and class 4 chimney in two pitches, and wound up doing an extra pitch. After the top of the class 4 chimney, the route is easy class 3 scrambling (maybe class 3+ in a few places) all the way up just before the ridge. The last section to the ridge (1 pitch) is a bit exposed. To descend from the summit, continue west along the ridge another ~100', and then downclimb a class 3/4 section to the gully which takes you all the way down the south slope (never more than class 3 downclimbing, mostly just talus hopping and scree). | ||
| Posted May 23, 2013 2:32 am | ||
| Deb | SE Couloir Ascent Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2013 | |
| Would've been a better snow climb with crampons but then I wouldn't had the opportunity (or lack of option) to climb the running waterfall. :/ Love the Class 3 fun-ness to the summit with my buddies Laura and Tom. | |
| Posted Apr 28, 2013 10:06 pm | ||
| bighornmonkey | SE face Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2012 | |
| Fun climb with really short approach. | |
| Posted Jun 25, 2012 8:26 pm | ||
| 96avs01 | Consolation Prize | |
| Hoped for the SE Face, but snow melt into the crack forced us onto the South Slope. Still an interesting climb with some Class 3+ moves on the crest to spice things up a bit. The snow was a whole lot better than the day before on Goode. | |
| Posted May 14, 2012 10:44 pm | ||
| sardude | Tom & I Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2008 | |
| Tom & I climbed the SE Face topped out w/ a storm below us. | |
| Posted Jan 13, 2012 12:39 am | ||
| thexcat | SE face Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2011 | |
| Got a late start with Cliff. Short approach, really fun climbing, excellent knife edge traverse near the summit. Blew out my back and gashed my leg on the descent. | |
| Posted Sep 6, 2011 6:54 pm | ||
| Daria | SE face Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010 | |
| Great route-sustained 3rd/4th class, solid rock. Impressive, fun knife edge traverse. | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2010 8:42 pm | ||
| A-Lex | SE Face | |
| Great climb! Up and down in fiveish hours solo with great rock the whole way up! Summit had an outstanding view. Descent down the SE/E chutes, but I think the SW stuff down to Loch Leven would be easier. | |
| Posted Nov 24, 2009 12:33 pm | ||
| seano | SE face Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2009 | |
| A nice solo half-day from North Lake. The chimney isn't too bad, and the rest of the route is mostly nice class 3 cruising. Awesome short knife-edge on the ridge. | |
| Posted Sep 28, 2009 5:11 pm | ||
| WML | Birdman Buttress Variation of SE Face Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009 | |
| Fun route, great time...awesome solo! | |
| Posted Sep 14, 2009 11:42 pm | ||
| granjero | Two ways! | |
| Climbed/skied the north couloir May 2005. Fun moves to summit in ski boots! Climbed SE face September 2009 | |
| Posted Sep 10, 2009 7:04 pm | ||
| Bill562 | South Slopes Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2009 | |
| Climbed with Dave Gonzalez | |
| Posted Aug 16, 2009 11:33 pm | ||
| Matt Worster | SE Face Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009 | |
| It's always a classic if it's better than you expect! Great day, bigger than I thought. A routefinding error made it a bit longer, and that last ridge was more than I expected, but fun when it was done. Great day, great scrambing parter who remained game throughout the day. | |
| Posted Aug 11, 2009 1:01 am | ||
| Samantha | SE Face Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2009 | |
| Nice climb. Another 5.4 lead for me with my new light alpine rope. Would have been more fun if my partner wasn't sick. Still hate the south slope descent--endless scree and sand on granite yuck. | |
| Posted Aug 4, 2009 8:53 pm | ||
| bcd | North Couloir Date Climbed: Apr 11, 2009 | |
| up and down the north couloir. All pow, all day! | |
| Posted Apr 13, 2009 6:17 pm | ||
| Noondueler | Did north summit Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2000 | |
| From Loch Leven. Way windy and cold so I passed on the main summit. | |
| Posted Feb 3, 2009 2:22 am | ||
| paisajeroamericano | great climb | |
| up piute pass, across humphreys basin, and up the ridge - I scrambled up the left side of the ridge, but cody could not make it - the ridge was great, then a bit of a slog up top, followed by a challenging summit problem - unfortunately, I had to return to the west ridge to pick up cody, but some of the more direct chutes looked like good decent routes - overall, a real nice climb | |
| Posted Oct 21, 2008 2:33 pm | ||
| tdoughty | Yeah Baby! Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2008 | |
| JB & I climbed the SE Face. | |
| Posted Sep 22, 2008 6:43 pm | ||
| dshoshone | S. Face Date Climbed: Sep 18, 2008 | |
| Fun climb as long as you stay on the ribs leading to summit. | |
| Posted Sep 19, 2008 11:06 am | ||
| salad | Southeast Face Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2008 | |
| Fun day soloing the Southeast Face. Light snow and rain on the summit ridge. | |
| Posted Sep 2, 2008 7:09 pm | ||
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