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Mount Guyot Climber's Log

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KaneRoute Climbed: East ridge Date Climbed: 1-18-2004  Sucess!


Yesterday Jim Haley and myself headed out to the Front Range. We knew a few days ago the weather would be good so we set our sights on Mount Guyot (13,294-ft.) Having hiked in the LCW many times over, the one mountain that really stands out to the north and really shows its prominence is Mount Guyot. Its classic pyramid shape is undeniable descending hwy 285 from Kenosha Pass. We had been looking at this one for a long time.

We selected the East Ridge for a few reasons; first, we new we had a nice road to follow up to Georgia Pass. Thus the approach would be easy, especially when we found the road to be nice and consolidated from all of the snowmobile traffic. From Georgia Pass we would start the climb. Second, we knew the east ridge would be fairly wind scoured from the prevalent northwesterly winds, thus less snow to deal with. When climbing in January you need to take into account the possibility of avalanche danger. Third, we knew the views from the east ridge would be inspiring all day.

From Georgia Pass (11,500 ft) we started our ¾ mile-1, 800-ft ascent to the summit, pretty darn steep!

During our research of this mountain we knew there would be a possibility of a nice snow cornice do deal with to make the final summit. This weighed on our minds all day but we kept pushing. Our mind set was to go as far as we could and just see what happens. Jim had made the golden rule that we wouldn't ascend any snow slope that exceeded 30 degrees so while we were getting close to that snow capped summit we had our doubts whether we would make it. We were both ok with the idea of not making it.

Once we arrived at the cornice Jim measured the snow slope to be at 35 degrees and since the snow was in dangerous condition for kick stepping we decided to look for another way around this spot. During our ascent we had spotted a place about 150-feet below were we could cross the slope and climb a class 3 rib back up on the other side of that slope. After climbing the rib of rock we had to do an interesting 8-10 feet traverse across the top of a steep/intimidating gully to reach the summit. We just took our time, and before we knew it we were on the summit of Mount Guyot! What a view.

Posted Jan 22, 2004 3:52 pm

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