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dkantolaRoute Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: November 6, 2004  Sucess!

dkantola

Route was far more difficult than I have experienced it in January-June. We went right of the bergschrund on 45-55 degree ice for about 300 feet to a rest next to the Pearly Gates entrance. Decided to climb through the crux unroped as I had only brought two ice screws and was worried about falling ice. The Pearly Gates started as 45 degree ice, then turned to water ice with three and seven foot vertical steps. Glad I had one tool because my mountain axe just bounced off. A field of mixed powder and dinnerplate sized death cookies led to the summit from there.



On the descent we stopped above the Pearly Gates and roped up to simul-climb. I placed two screws and set up an essentially anchorless belay at the entrance. When my partner got there we unroped and started frontpointing down climber's left of the bergschrund. It was a bit easier than the way we had come up. Once at the bergschrund my calves were relieved that it was just a walk back to the car.
Posted Nov 7, 2004 1:44 pm

Phil DeckerRoute Climbed: South Side - Hogsback Date Climbed: June 6 2004  Sucess!

Phil Decker

Whiteout conditions up to 9,000'... just clear and cold above that.
Posted Oct 13, 2004 9:56 pm

AndinistalocoRoute Climbed: Cooper Spur Date Climbed: Fall 2002  Sucess!

Andinistaloco

Don't try this one in the fall - at least not before checking out the glacier! When we were up there, it was a sheet of ice and we had to move to the left (S) and climb on crumbling, ice-riddled 3-5th class rock. I'd recommend doing this one as a car shuttle - then you can descend the much easier S face route.



Posted Sep 14, 2004 3:40 pm

Rob RicksRoute Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: April 23, 2004  Sucess!

Rob Ricks

Went with Timberline Mountain Guides on my first trip up Hood. Unusually good weather for climbing in April. Not a lot of people on the mountain, but they all populated the Hogsback at the same time so there was a nice little gathering of rope teams all trying to get to the Pearly Gates. Snow Bridge well intact. Minor ice and rockfall at the gates. Made the crowded summit at 7:30 a.m. Descent went well until midmorning when we began postholing. Back in time for lunch. Beautiful day all the way around.
Posted Aug 23, 2004 8:43 pm

ungerfeldDate Climbed: April 11, 2004  Sucess!

ungerfeld

Good and enjoyable experience. Climb guided by Eric Chalumeau from Timberline Mountain Guides, very competent and professional.
Posted Aug 9, 2004 6:51 pm

lostmanRoute Climbed: South Side (Hogsback) Date Climbed: July 22, 2004  Sucess!

lostman

Perfect weather and snow conditions, despite a 90 degree day in Portland. Pearly Gates were melted out so we veered west as the Bergschrund and took another chute further west. A bit longer, Steeper terrain (40 degrees), and a some crumbly Class 3 rock at the top of the chute made for a more exciting finish than we expected. Probably the last weekend of decent conditions, but seeing the gaping 'Schrund upclose and stepping over some tiny crevasses on the Coalman Glacier higher up made it definitely worth visiting late season.
Posted Aug 3, 2004 4:32 pm

Andrew McKenzieRoute Climbed: South Slope Date Climbed: August 10, 2003  Sucess!

Andrew McKenzie

This was a great mountain to climb on short notice. We got to Timberline lodge around 12:30 a.m. and quickly made our way up the mountain. Crampons required to walk on the icy ski runs at this time of day. Once above the ski hill the hiking became mixed, with frequent scree patches making consistant crampon use a pain. Fog over the top of the mountain really lessened the thrill of summiting, but I do have to say, took all the exposure excitement out of the steep snow above the bershrund. Funny how you forget just where you are when you can only see about 50 feet in any given direction. Summit by 8:30 then a fairly quick desent thanks to slick pants and the heavy snow pack. A word of advice, I dont think the ski area likes it when climbers use the slopes to desend during hours of operation. Stay to the left side of the ski hill as you desend. Oh yeah, and the kids love to see a full grown man skidding on his ass at 20 mph down the side of the ski slope. Heh...kids! Cheers!

Posted Jul 14, 2004 1:01 am

BentleyRoute Climbed: Palmer Glacier/South Side Date Climbed: July 18, 2003  Sucess!

Bentley

Bluebird day in the middle of the week--saw three other climbers and had the rest of the hill to ourselves!
Posted Jul 10, 2004 8:25 pm

sierradiscgolferRoute Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: April 3,1998  Sucess!

sierradiscgolfer

Summitted on a fairly cloud enshrouded day.. The upside was we were the only ones on the mountain.
Posted Jul 9, 2004 5:44 pm

PawkalaRoute Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: June 3,2004  Sucess!

Pawkala

This was the second time I have climbed Hood. First was a midnight climb from Timberline in June of 2002 with a summit at sunrise. Was a long experience due to my seemingly constant promblems with my crampons. The second time was June 3,2004. We got a climbers lift pass and left at 8am and arrived at the top of the ski area at 8:20. Had a perfect day with no wind and awesome snow conditions. Summited in about 3 hours. Had a great glasade down. I am glad I experienced the climb from the parkinglot but probably won't do it again. The chair ride made it so much nicer than the slog up the ski slope.
Posted Jul 2, 2004 12:12 am

dkantolaRoute Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: June 28, 2004  Sucess!

dkantola

I've been wondering how long it would take for me to do the South Side. So I headed up solo and took 3:53 to the summit, 25 minutes there, then 2:00 down. In the process I passed the twenty or so people ahead of me and reached the summit first in time for sunrise.
Posted Jun 28, 2004 1:52 pm

cluckRoute Climbed: South Side -standard Date Climbed: 6/15/03  Sucess!

cluck

Went left of bergie and up a slope between two choss piles, then traversed right above the bergie to rejoin the hogsback. Although this is only a slight variation on the standard route, I've never done this or seen people doing this. Lots of rime on cliffs above made me nervous on traverse. Sun was on 'em by the time we were headed down and sooner of later those things are going to crash down, some large and hopefully not onto a climbing party.
Posted Jun 16, 2004 8:17 pm

chickenhawk34Route Climbed: Southside(Hogsback) Date Climbed: April 16,2004  Sucess!
Due to significant memory challenges, I've done gone and forgotten my true summit date - but I'm sure I'm close. Due to some flatlander attitude problems, Our intrepid party of three made an two day "expidition" out of this one. Really lucky here because we summited in beautiful weather...

...but ever so late in the afternoon.. (3:00!)



Congratulations to Becky Kanya of Madison, WI. on her first summit!

Tim

Posted Jun 16, 2004 4:35 pm

Scott WesemannRoute Climbed: South side Date Climbed: 6/01 and 6/03

Scott Wesemann

2001 we encountered a severe storm that stranded us at 8,500 in a ski shack. The storm raged for hours and we decided to head down, as the visibility low, the winds were high and the snow was falling hard.



2003 Cloud cap at 8,500. Storm below and sun above. The mountain was absolutely beautiful.
Posted Jun 10, 2004 1:18 am

toclimbonRoute Climbed: south Date Climbed: 6-7-04  Sucess!

toclimbon

Pretty dicey weather But, still managed to summit. Lots of soft snow above palmer to summit. Much work But, worth it!
Posted Jun 8, 2004 2:58 pm

kozRoute Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: June 3, 2004  Sucess!

koz

Phenomenal red sunrise from up top. Also saw the sky turn to daylight for some inexplicable reason on the way up -- found out the next day a meteorite had exploded high up. Glad to claim my 27th state highpoint.
Posted Jun 7, 2004 4:44 pm

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: Hogsback Date Climbed: May 25, 2004  Sucess!
Beautiful morning. I started at 2:45 am from the lodge and summited at 7:15. More of a hike than a climb as the only fairly steep section is above the hogsback. I really regreted not bringing my skis as hiking down along the ski run was really boring.
Posted May 31, 2004 3:53 pm

Jeff HRoute Climbed: South Side (Hogsback) Date Climbed: April 28th, 2004  Sucess!
Watched a beautiful sunrise while alone on the summit and was back in Portland in time for work by mid morning. Great way to start the day.
Posted May 27, 2004 12:23 am

esugiRoute Climbed: South Side Date Climbed: May 23, 2004

esugi

Tried for my second summit of this mountain.



We set out with full conditions at 2:30 am. There were 2-3" of fresh snow at timberline lodge. Driving snow at higher elevations with 6-12" of fresh snow. We made it to base of crater rock (approx. 9600 ft) but the weather showed no signs of improvement. We turned around due to poor visibility and concerns of avalanche up higher. Descended in whiteout using a compass. Talk about vertigo! Couldn't tell if I was going up or down!!



good experience climb eventhough we didn't make the summit.
Posted May 26, 2004 5:15 pm

modeboyRoute Climbed: south side route Date Climbed: 5/20/2004  Sucess!
left the lodge around 6am. great weather until the hogsback. from then on clouds moved in and out the rest of the climb. summited at 10am and stayed long enough for something to eat and a few pics. little to no wind the whole time. the bergschrund has opened up a lot. several climbers were traversing around to the left, yet still were sinking in. suggest the mazama variation for the rest of the year.
Posted May 21, 2004 12:30 pm

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