I climbed Hood twice this year. The conditions and route were great in 2016. My second climb was a solo trip. But the definition of “solo” was seriously tested this day because of Memorial Day crowds and perfect weather. I think there must have been 100 en route to the summit. Luckily I was up there during a lull and only four other people were lounging around in the sun.
I started at 3am and was on the summit at 6:10am. I spent 11 minutes up there taking pictures and loving how small all the other hills and mountains look. After negotiating the crowds coming up through the Pearly Gates (both sides were open so that helped) and crossing the Bergschrund (see below), I was back at my car at 8:50am.
Today was a truly fun climb.
SchwartzOn - Jul 15, 2016 2:00 am Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2014
Double summit with Bachelor in a Day
This was a fun one. Great start at resort. Nice use trail out to Pearly Gate. Steep snow with ice axe ascent. Summit not entirely clear but the whole mountain is very interesting. Cascades are really pretty, and give great views all around. Descended same route.
jobomont2 - Jul 13, 2016 2:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2016
Pearly Gates / Old Chute
Summited via Pearly Gates, descended via the Old Chute. Wind and rain almost to the top of Palmer, clear from then on. Great conditions in the gates, beautiful day to summit! Only saw about a dozen other climbers or so. I left about 2:15am and summited just after 8am. Spent 30 min on top and made it back to Timberline in 3 hours. The warming temperatures really loosened things up on the way down. If I went again I would leave earlier knowing my pace.
utclimber - Jul 10, 2016 2:09 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2016
South Side
Summited just before sunrise, and then stayed a few minutes while the sun came up. Four hours from car to summit, and another three hours to return. Perfect weather this day.
DukeJH - Jul 5, 2016 1:10 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2016
South Side Old Chute Variation
Ascended the "right chute". Lots of icefall and rockfall on the descent to the Hogsback.
Linejudge - Jun 24, 2016 4:41 pm Date Climbed: May 20, 2008
Mt Hood
Summitted with Timberline Mountain Guides. Cloudy all day.
BooRadley - Jun 13, 2016 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2016
Old Chute - alternative
Incredible day to summit Mt. Hood via the Old Chute. A logjam of people at the chute sent us through the steeper, narrower chute to the right on the ascent. Sketchy ice sent us back down the traditional route over the knife-edge at the top.
Couldn't have asked for better weather!
strudolyubov - Jun 9, 2016 7:59 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2016
Pearly Gates
Quick climb via South Side/Pearly Gates route. Prime conditions at Pearly Gates, nice weather, great views.
Dennis Poulin - Jun 3, 2016 6:23 pm Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2003
From the Lodge
Nice busy day on the mountain
huskertriguy - May 12, 2016 2:31 pm Date Climbed: May 7, 2016
Just Wasn't My Day
A few things building up made this a slog-fest, so I turned around at the top of Palmer realizing although I could summit, I did not need to put myself in a hole one month before Rainier.
Party of 3 setoff at 2am. Moonless night with a plethora of shooting stars. Weather was fantastic. Followed the cat track up to the end of the chair lift and put on crampons to continue up. Only one other group of 3 on the mountain. Pearly Gates had good conditions and was a blast. Spent some time on the summit and headed back down. Back at the car a little after 11am. What a fun mountain!
Larry Laverty - Apr 8, 2016 1:50 am Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2016
South Side (Hogsback)
Started on the right side of the lodge, the cat track, and followed that cat track up into the night along the right perimeter of the resort as is requested in the climbers cave. From the top of the lift where the cat track poops out, I wandered a bit in the darkness but at first light knew the crater entrance.The current condition of the Pearly Gates keeps you honest after being lulled by the slopes. It was a beautiful moonless night and shooting stars made for magic.
Nice job Larry. First attempt success is always sweet
Mike D' - Mar 31, 2016 12:35 pm Date Climbed: Apr 13, 2014
Boxing Match
Our healthy group of about six departed Timberline just before sunrise. Wow, crazy headwinds all day were taxing to say the least, long slow slog that day for sure. Ski down from the west saddle was all ice & chicken heads during our ski descent. Bleh!
Mike D' - Mar 31, 2016 12:25 pm Date Climbed: Feb 10, 2013
Sunday Ski
Ben & I departed Timberline around 8am to nearly perfect winter conditions. Not a ton of traffic for a Sunday, sunny and snow already quite soft. Took the southwest chute rather than pearly gates. Ski off the saddle to the west was as sweet as imaginable, snow quite soft for up high, perfect down yonder.
Mike D' - Mar 31, 2016 12:16 pm Date Climbed: May 10, 2012
Great Success
Departed Timberline a little after 4am, stashed skis just above the Palmer catwalk. Snowbridge over the bergschrund was all but gone, had to step over the gap, pearly gates were boney with the last of the ice chipping away with every climber. Summit around 9 or 10, a few snowboarders up there but overall a rather peaceful day on the mountain.
Ian Culhane - Mar 23, 2016 1:47 am Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2016
Standard Route via Hogsback
Ended up doing this as an overnight trip; trekked up to near the top of the Palmer Lift on Friday and built a pretty stylish snow cave. Left camp at around 8:00 for the summit. Weather was spectacular up until around 10,000. Past that we were in a whiteout; the summit was blisteringly cold and windy (no view north, but occasional view to the South). Overall route conditions were great; there was a well defined path leading right up the Hogsback (the bergschund isn't there yet). The pearly gates were a bit icy but easily doable with crampons and an axe. I'd estimate that about 40 people summitted; we were one of the later groups to reach the top (too busy having fun sleeping...).
Ritcheypac - Mar 20, 2016 9:42 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2016
Leuthold Couloir
We were fortunate to hit a good weather window following last week's storm. Despite the avi rating at moderate, we found the conditions to be rather stable on the route. There was a fair amount of post holing traversing the Reid Glacier although no open crevasses. The couloir was in "decent" shape. We followed a funnel of run-out for a couple hundred feet in the center of the couloir despite our better judgement due to loose, deep snow elsewhere. We did use a couple of ice screws through the hourglass. The ridge above was in great condition and easy to follow although there were large cornices overhanging the East Face. Overall...a great late-winter climb. We saw at least 3 other teams who approached yet turned around so had the couloir to ourselves.
elcy79.gp - Mar 8, 2016 10:50 am Date Climbed: Feb 25, 2016
Pearly Gates
Left TH at 2am with a 3 day past-full moon. Temps were in mid20's with manageable winds. Climbing partner was having equip. pblms so I went ahead. With excellent snow conditions was able to get thru Pearly Gates with just a walking axe using the shaft as an anchor.
Made the summit by 8:30am with excellent views all around. Came down old chute. Temps were warming up by 10am and was down to a single layer. Heard Pearly Gates had an ice avalanche later that day
Flew in at 6:00 on Thursday night and drove straight out to the TH. Slept in the rental car. Low snow and icy conditions but great start to the weekend.
Noah (Oregon) - Aug 20, 2016 9:25 am
Still love itI climbed Hood twice this year. The conditions and route were great in 2016. My second climb was a solo trip. But the definition of “solo” was seriously tested this day because of Memorial Day crowds and perfect weather. I think there must have been 100 en route to the summit. Luckily I was up there during a lull and only four other people were lounging around in the sun.
I started at 3am and was on the summit at 6:10am. I spent 11 minutes up there taking pictures and loving how small all the other hills and mountains look. After negotiating the crowds coming up through the Pearly Gates (both sides were open so that helped) and crossing the Bergschrund (see below), I was back at my car at 8:50am.
Today was a truly fun climb.
SchwartzOn - Jul 15, 2016 2:00 am Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2014
Double summit with Bachelor in a DayThis was a fun one. Great start at resort. Nice use trail out to Pearly Gate. Steep snow with ice axe ascent. Summit not entirely clear but the whole mountain is very interesting. Cascades are really pretty, and give great views all around. Descended same route.
jobomont2 - Jul 13, 2016 2:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2016
Pearly Gates / Old ChuteSummited via Pearly Gates, descended via the Old Chute. Wind and rain almost to the top of Palmer, clear from then on. Great conditions in the gates, beautiful day to summit! Only saw about a dozen other climbers or so. I left about 2:15am and summited just after 8am. Spent 30 min on top and made it back to Timberline in 3 hours. The warming temperatures really loosened things up on the way down. If I went again I would leave earlier knowing my pace.
utclimber - Jul 10, 2016 2:09 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2016
South SideSummited just before sunrise, and then stayed a few minutes while the sun came up. Four hours from car to summit, and another three hours to return. Perfect weather this day.
DukeJH - Jul 5, 2016 1:10 pm Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2016
South Side Old Chute VariationAscended the "right chute". Lots of icefall and rockfall on the descent to the Hogsback.
Linejudge - Jun 24, 2016 4:41 pm Date Climbed: May 20, 2008
Mt HoodSummitted with Timberline Mountain Guides. Cloudy all day.
BooRadley - Jun 13, 2016 1:11 pm Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2016
Old Chute - alternativeIncredible day to summit Mt. Hood via the Old Chute. A logjam of people at the chute sent us through the steeper, narrower chute to the right on the ascent. Sketchy ice sent us back down the traditional route over the knife-edge at the top.
Couldn't have asked for better weather!
strudolyubov - Jun 9, 2016 7:59 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2016
Pearly GatesQuick climb via South Side/Pearly Gates route. Prime conditions at Pearly Gates, nice weather, great views.
Dennis Poulin - Jun 3, 2016 6:23 pm Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2003
From the LodgeNice busy day on the mountain
huskertriguy - May 12, 2016 2:31 pm Date Climbed: May 7, 2016
Just Wasn't My DayA few things building up made this a slog-fest, so I turned around at the top of Palmer realizing although I could summit, I did not need to put myself in a hole one month before Rainier.
Be back this summer.
alexghackett - Apr 15, 2016 9:05 pm Date Climbed: Apr 11, 2016
First SummitParty of 3 setoff at 2am. Moonless night with a plethora of shooting stars. Weather was fantastic. Followed the cat track up to the end of the chair lift and put on crampons to continue up. Only one other group of 3 on the mountain. Pearly Gates had good conditions and was a blast. Spent some time on the summit and headed back down. Back at the car a little after 11am. What a fun mountain!
Larry Laverty - Apr 8, 2016 1:50 am Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2016
South Side (Hogsback)Started on the right side of the lodge, the cat track, and followed that cat track up into the night along the right perimeter of the resort as is requested in the climbers cave. From the top of the lift where the cat track poops out, I wandered a bit in the darkness but at first light knew the crater entrance.The current condition of the Pearly Gates keeps you honest after being lulled by the slopes. It was a beautiful moonless night and shooting stars made for magic.
elcy79.gp - Apr 13, 2016 11:04 am
Re: South Side (Hogsback)Nice job Larry. First attempt success is always sweet
Mike D' - Mar 31, 2016 12:35 pm Date Climbed: Apr 13, 2014
Boxing MatchOur healthy group of about six departed Timberline just before sunrise. Wow, crazy headwinds all day were taxing to say the least, long slow slog that day for sure. Ski down from the west saddle was all ice & chicken heads during our ski descent. Bleh!
Mike D' - Mar 31, 2016 12:25 pm Date Climbed: Feb 10, 2013
Sunday SkiBen & I departed Timberline around 8am to nearly perfect winter conditions. Not a ton of traffic for a Sunday, sunny and snow already quite soft. Took the southwest chute rather than pearly gates. Ski off the saddle to the west was as sweet as imaginable, snow quite soft for up high, perfect down yonder.
Mike D' - Mar 31, 2016 12:16 pm Date Climbed: May 10, 2012
Great SuccessDeparted Timberline a little after 4am, stashed skis just above the Palmer catwalk. Snowbridge over the bergschrund was all but gone, had to step over the gap, pearly gates were boney with the last of the ice chipping away with every climber. Summit around 9 or 10, a few snowboarders up there but overall a rather peaceful day on the mountain.
Ian Culhane - Mar 23, 2016 1:47 am Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2016
Standard Route via HogsbackEnded up doing this as an overnight trip; trekked up to near the top of the Palmer Lift on Friday and built a pretty stylish snow cave. Left camp at around 8:00 for the summit. Weather was spectacular up until around 10,000. Past that we were in a whiteout; the summit was blisteringly cold and windy (no view north, but occasional view to the South). Overall route conditions were great; there was a well defined path leading right up the Hogsback (the bergschund isn't there yet). The pearly gates were a bit icy but easily doable with crampons and an axe. I'd estimate that about 40 people summitted; we were one of the later groups to reach the top (too busy having fun sleeping...).
Ritcheypac - Mar 20, 2016 9:42 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2016
Leuthold CouloirWe were fortunate to hit a good weather window following last week's storm. Despite the avi rating at moderate, we found the conditions to be rather stable on the route. There was a fair amount of post holing traversing the Reid Glacier although no open crevasses. The couloir was in "decent" shape. We followed a funnel of run-out for a couple hundred feet in the center of the couloir despite our better judgement due to loose, deep snow elsewhere. We did use a couple of ice screws through the hourglass. The ridge above was in great condition and easy to follow although there were large cornices overhanging the East Face. Overall...a great late-winter climb. We saw at least 3 other teams who approached yet turned around so had the couloir to ourselves.
elcy79.gp - Mar 8, 2016 10:50 am Date Climbed: Feb 25, 2016
Pearly GatesLeft TH at 2am with a 3 day past-full moon. Temps were in mid20's with manageable winds. Climbing partner was having equip. pblms so I went ahead. With excellent snow conditions was able to get thru Pearly Gates with just a walking axe using the shaft as an anchor.
Made the summit by 8:30am with excellent views all around. Came down old chute. Temps were warming up by 10am and was down to a single layer. Heard Pearly Gates had an ice avalanche later that day
MadGrad96 - Oct 9, 2015 8:12 am
Weekend getawayFlew in at 6:00 on Thursday night and drove straight out to the TH. Slept in the rental car. Low snow and icy conditions but great start to the weekend.