Mount Hood Climber's Log
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|Bruce Christensen||Hogsback crawling with ants |
Date Climbed: May 28, 2009
|Summitted yesterday a bit before 5:30 a.m. on the SS Hogsback route. We were the first ones up there, other than a solo climber. Definitely not the last, though—we counted 75 people at one point!|
Most people were taking the main Old Chute route. We headed left from the Hogsback and hugged the cliffs, taking the 2 o'clock (first, climber's rightmost) couloir to the summit ridge. I probably wouldn't recommend that, though, due to risk of ice/rockfall.
Not much ice was falling when we went up, other than small, harmless crystals, but we were up there early. We crossed a couple places were there was a constant flow of small ice crystals coming down.
Safest route right now is to head left (west) immediately after reaching the top of the Hogsback, then cross the bare rock near the fumaroles, then up the Old Chute. That will keep you out of the way of most ice/rockfall.
|Posted May 29, 2009 12:42 pm|
|junoiceclimber||1, 2, 3... Stay on your feet |
Date Climbed: May 18, 2009
|Three people were injured and two took major slides on consecutive days on this weekend. Two of the three made the paper as airlift rescues and the last one walked away from the Hogsback under his own power.|
One person was hit by falling ice suffered substantial leg injuries rendering her incapable of walking away from the Cathedral Rock area. Another guy slipped, shot 500 ft out of the Devil's Kitchen, and sustained serious facial, wrist, and leg injuries. Lastly a climber, just five minutes behind me was knocked off his feet by a careening dinner plate and slid, unharmed, 200 ft back down to the start of the Hogsback. Witnessing this incident occur, 14 climbers turned around to descend.
Without knowing that such drama was happening, I witnessed an ice wheel go zinging down the mountain just meters away, and then, seconds later, took a baseball size chunk of ice in the chin and mouth, thinking it broke several of my front teeth. I (literally) poured on the speed to get up and out of the gully to reach the safety of the summit ridge.
The summit was amazing, not a cloud in the sky. All the big Cascades were visible, including Shasta!! To top it all off, I had good cell coverage and called my wife back in Juneau with a wake up call.
On the descent, I moved quick to get down without incident. I descended the Old Chute in a face first clipity clop and literally ran the traverse to reach the Hogsback without incident.
|Posted May 19, 2009 12:06 pm|
|oso1212||Sandy Glacier Headwall |
Date Climbed: May 17, 2009
|We started at 2:00am from Illumination Saddle and descended Reid Glacier then up and over Yokum at around 7800 ft. Went up the headwall while attempting to dodge ice and summited around 10am.|
|Posted May 18, 2009 5:34 pm|
|bfrench||Birthday Solo |
Date Climbed: May 25, 2007
|Climbed solo on my birthday. 2 hours 15 minutes from Timberline. Skied old chute and made it to Seattle by noon.|
|Posted Apr 28, 2009 12:23 am|
|EastKing||Hogsback-Old Chute |
Date Climbed: May 29, 2009
|Done deal. But I will go back many more times. What a beautiful climb! See both on April and May TR's|
|Posted Apr 25, 2009 2:33 am|
|bruceg||South Side |
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 1997
|Climbed with Timberline Mountain Guides. Summited at 6 am in a cloudbank. I have heard that the view is great.|
|Posted Apr 24, 2009 8:13 pm|
Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2009
|Craig and Greg and I set out at 10pm and made it to the Hogsback by 4am. Craig having been on the summit twice was fully prepared to continue on. Greg and I dizzy from altitude sickness and sulfur dioxide fumes decided to turn around. I thought we could probably make it up the chute in our condition but it would have been an unnecessary risk coming down.|
UPDATE: My second attempt was successful via the Leuthold Couloir, December 4th, 2011
|Posted Apr 20, 2009 9:13 pm|
|lalpinist||Perfect Conditions |
Date Climbed: Apr 19, 2009
|Very nice conditions (clear, warm, mild wind an not as crowded as other times I've been). The Pearly Gats are still iced up; the Old Chute route that is stomped out went a little bit West of where I remember, making a bit of an exposed stretch to the true summit. The (half) moon when it first rose was so orange, it looked like mars.|
|Posted Apr 20, 2009 5:37 pm|
|deungsan||finally got to Hood|
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2008
|Partner Tony and I did the normal route. Fairly straightforward.|
Good time all around.
|Posted Mar 28, 2009 6:31 pm|
Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2007
|Barely got to the summit before being chased back down by a storm. Great intro on glacier climbs. Climbed with WoundedKnee and Timberline.|
|Posted Mar 15, 2009 5:57 pm|
|skydiver777||The first of three |
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2008
|Two friends and I set out to climb 3 peaks in one week. Mt Hood, the first, we used to warm up for Mt. Adams. the first day we climbed up to the Devils Kitchen,(p.u. sulpher) set up camp and reviewed rescues. In the morning we got up to make a short climb to the summit. Beautiful clear weather. We could see 200 miles in each direction. Climbing down sucked seeing all those skiers, and I didn't have my skis. Onto Mt. Adams|
|Posted Mar 5, 2009 4:58 pm|
|farrisgl||Camped out above ski lift|
Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2002
|Two of my French business colleagues Joel and Luc climbed up from timberline lodge early afternoon on Saturday and camped out about a 1/4 mile or so above the top of the upper ski lift. Really nice weather and an enjoyable evening apart from the sound of the ski slope grooming equipment backup alarms active until almost midnight. |
We were up with the crunch, crunch, crunch of other climbers walking past our tents and heading toward the summit. Very busy morning as we climbed above the bergschrund and through Pearly Gates ice chute. The number of people, and poor climbing techniques would have made this really dangerous if not for the fairly soft snow conditions. My friend Luc, a very experienced French mountaineer, couldn’t contain himself with 3 groups, asking “do you guys know what you are doing?” These dangerous climbing practices taking place just a few weeks after the multiple fatalities in exactly the same place.
We reached the summit at first light providing a truly amazing site. On the summit was a very intricate snow cave complete with a window out the steep North Slope.
Are decent was marred with more questionable climbing parties including a group of 3 roped together equality dividing a 60 meter rope with the climber in the middle. We took our time on the descent enjoying the spectacular setting.
This is a really great summit; however it was sobering to think of the three deaths as we passed the 'shrund just a few weeks before.
|Posted Mar 3, 2009 2:27 pm|
Date Climbed: May 31, 2004
|Solo climb in 9 hours roundtrip after frustrating attempt on Rainier. Winter wonderland!|
|Posted Mar 1, 2009 11:39 am|
|lneher||South Side Old Chute route |
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2008
|This is the easiest way to the summit when the Hogsback moves too far left of the Pearly Gates.|
We climbed through the fumaroles to avoid ice falling across the standard traverse on a warm day.
|Posted Feb 11, 2009 11:42 am|
Date Climbed: Jan 25, 2009
|A 2am start in snowy conditions turned into a full on blizzard at 4am. Four of us skied down at 6am (from 9,100ft) without regret. The other four continued and eventually broke through the clouds at the Hogs-back (swine-spine). Steep ice with wind-packed snow over it created avalanche danger so they turned around 300ft short of the summit. Fun trip though.|
|Posted Feb 3, 2009 12:34 pm|
|sassyplatt||Loved it! |
Date Climbed: May 14, 2007
|Hog's back, Pearly Gates, very exciting and beautiful.|
|Posted Jan 24, 2009 7:17 pm|
|wonkeytaco||South Side - Ice Fall at Hogs Back|
Date Climbed: Jan 18, 2009
|Group: Dain Zaitz, Brent Fisher, Josh Friberg, David Bekken and Me (Ben Friberg)|
Time: Left 12:00am 1/18/2009 Return 9:00am 1/18/2009
4 climbs on Mt hood since I started climbing and this was the first time I had to turn back and it was a great decision and really helped to make the trip a memorable experience and to increase my Mountaineering skills.
|Posted Jan 22, 2009 10:32 pm|
Date Climbed: Mar 21, 2004
|Left car at midnight and had clear weather and good snow. Saw a guy take a long slide off the hogsback before self arrest. Wow! Norman and Andrew snowboarded back to car. Didn't bring rope.|
|Posted Jan 1, 2009 4:27 pm|
|oregonmtnman||South Side Route |
Date Climbed: May 13, 2006
|Made summit with Chemeketans out of Salem, Oregon. Beautiful weather, although bitterly cold (even with down jacket and shell on). Great mountain.|
|Posted Dec 11, 2008 12:09 am|
|Curtissimo||WY-EAST: brash warrior |
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 1997
|WY-EAST is such a better name for this peak. Did it roped up but saw a senior citizen in shorts and running shoes make it too!|
|Posted Dec 8, 2008 9:36 pm|