|[ Sizes: Orig | Large | Med | Small | Thumb ]|
(view of our ascent taken from Mount Victoria's ridge)
You have two options for ascent on Mount Huber. The traditional line is to the right avoiding the bergshrund below the summit. However, we chose to avoid loosing elevation, which was required to bypass several crevasses and made a line up the northeast face, crossing the bergshrund on the left via a snow bridge. Once across the bergshrund, the ground steepened and gave up ice for ice screw placements. Two pitches with a 60m rope diagonally moving left got us across the steep ice/slush and over to a scree ledge on the left side of the glacier. From there we kept our crampons on and followed the edge of the glacier to the summit, staying left to avoid the massive ice cornice. There was a summit register in 2007.
NE Face of Mount Huber, II, Yoho National Park, July, 2007