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Mount Humphreys Climber's Log

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BobD3SW slope/ NW ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2014
Free climbed it solo on a perfect weather day. An unforgettable experience to say the least.
Posted Oct 19, 2014 8:20 pm

bennovakHutchinson Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2014

bennovak

One day trip with Kurt from SMI. Incredible climb, incredible view, awesome guide. We made the summit before the weather and were back in town in time for dinner.
Posted Jul 13, 2014 6:13 pm

youngclimer123a long day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2013

youngclimer123

took the standard route, 14hours from the basin to summit and back
Posted Nov 11, 2013 2:25 pm

blueshadestd SW to top  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013

blueshade

Pretty easy trail and cross country approach. Gully has 2 cruxy C4 spots. C4 going up was fun. Chose to downclimb on climber's L rather than R on the way down. Fun route.
Posted Aug 25, 2013 5:43 pm

DukeJHSW Slope to NE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2013

DukeJH

Part of the Sierra Challenge for 2013. The chute was a loose mess but worth it to get to the Class 3-4 above the notch.
Posted Aug 19, 2013 1:28 pm

DebSW Slope to NE Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013

Deb

With Kathy and Norma - took the chockstone chute and stayed on rock as much as possible. I found the chute very pleasant that way. Climb from notch was the best! Class 4 sections too short :( but most enjoyable. We rapped from each rap station for sake of time and safety. Of the 24 mtns I've climbed this year, THIS is my fave!
Posted Jul 8, 2013 10:26 am

cabSouthwest Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2013

cab

Great climb! A 60m rope for rappeling would have been better than the 30m we carried even though there was an intermediate rappel station already set up (the second rap station ran the rope over a semi-sharp rock). No rope necessary for the climb up.
Posted Jun 10, 2013 11:38 am

TheNobleSunfishSE Slope / SW Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2012

TheNobleSunfish

Lots of loose junk on the approach, but otherwise beautiful!
Posted Oct 1, 2012 1:36 pm

Say yes to crackFinally  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2012

Say yes to crack

Finally, one of the best summit views around.
Summer is much better than trying it several times in the winter
Posted Jun 18, 2012 8:34 pm

Darren9Great route!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 12, 2012

Darren9

With Sierra Mountaineering Group, climbed E. Arete from Longley Reservoir, taking the alternate start up the snow couloir to the notch just below the peaklet. Ascended the standard route from there to summit and descended the North Couloir. Excellent rock, not too hard, summit pitch was the most fun.
Posted May 24, 2012 3:41 am

danman3156Southeast Butress  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011

danman3156

Fun route up a great mountain! Awesome views!
Posted Nov 8, 2011 1:22 am

bc44caesarEast Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2011

bc44caesar

Climbed Peaklet from the east (unpleasant scree), then attempted to traverse the entire ridge to Humphreys. Stopped at two prominent towers, which would've required a 5th class downclimb harder than I cared to try. Had to retrace my steps a bit, downclimb, then make a long scree traverse to the saddle. Climbed the East Arete mostly on the crest, then took the gully between Humphreys and the prominent tower down. A little over 5 hrs to the summit from the car, maybe a bit under 3 hrs from the saddle to the summit. Ok route, not that classic though.
Posted Aug 20, 2011 1:07 pm

dshoshoneEast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2011

dshoshone

Full East Ridge

Trip Report: http://www.supertopo.com/tripreport/tripreport.php?articleid=11112

Posted Aug 13, 2011 11:10 am

mengboEast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2011

mengbo

Climbed with Jean and Nate. Unforgettable experience.
Posted Aug 11, 2011 3:02 am

mrchad9Southwest Chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011

mrchad9

An excellent solo trip up the southwest chutes and NW face. Near the chockstone I cut left and went up the next chute/ridge over. Fairly solid footing and even some good class 3 climbing up to the notch, then the highlights from there to the summit. Somewhat sunny on top but started hailing on the way down.
Posted Aug 1, 2011 1:20 pm

Dow WilliamsMount Humphreys  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2011

Dow Williams

Full East Arete. Great day out with Peter S. 2nd day in the Eastern Sierra, Cardinal Pinnacle offered exceptional crack climbing yesterday, Humphreys gave me an alpine fix today. 8hrs+ car to car. Creek crossing on return at 4:pm was no worries for any truck in my opinion. If from the Canadian Rockies, we would call this a difficult scramble. We soloed, no rope or harnesses. Really easy terrain, super solid rock for what I am use to. Ridge snow free for most part. We should have had alpine axes for a much quicker descent (then without) down the snow field at the col but doable without an ax, just not advised. Along with another solo individual, 2nd registered ascent of the season. Beautiful country. About 5800' total gain registered on watch, couple hundred feet lost to col. Like an Alpine III in the Canadian Rockies. Beautiful camp site by the creek.
Posted Jun 29, 2011 12:45 pm

Vitaliy M.Winter ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011

Vitaliy M.

With Mark. Full east arete 5.5. Cool classic line
Posted Jun 19, 2011 2:21 pm

PellucidWombatFull East Arete in Winter  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011

PellucidWombat

Vitaliy and I started at the saddle between Magic McGee & the 13,000 ft subpeak and climbed the entire ridge. Boots & packs made it more fun. So did the snow cave bivy from 100' below the summit plateau.
Posted Feb 14, 2011 12:22 pm

Climber DaveFreezing Winds on the Southwest Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010

Climber Dave

Climbed the Southwest Slope, freezing cold winds 30+ Mph was blowing snow from storm on the other side of Humphreys Basin on us. By the time we reached the summit we were so cold and the wind was blowing so hard, that we just signed in and bailed to get off before getting caught in a storm. Never even got to enjoy the view. Hope to be back, next time maybe the East Arete.
Posted Feb 2, 2011 1:52 pm

PlanItLong walk in God's country  Sucess!

PlanIt

Postholed in and soloed until a slide in a northfacing couloir almost killed me just below the summit of 13,123. Climbed up and over shaking and a little bloody. No harm done, lesson learned.
Posted Jan 28, 2011 12:49 pm

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