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Mount Humphreys Climber's Log

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mtnfotoRoute Climbed: Regular West Face Route Date Climbed: 1981  Sucess!
Solo day hike from North Lake. Also climbed Emerson on the way back.
Posted Jan 20, 2004 1:04 pm

Dave DinnellRoute Climbed: SW Slope/NW Face; Hutchinson Rt.; SE Buttress Date Climbed: Aug. 1985; July 1986; July 1987  Sucess!

Dave Dinnell

A terrific Peak. First eyed it in 1982 after backpacking north from Whitney Portal and vowed to come back to climb. My old Roper High Sierra Guide called the SW Slope/NW Face Rt. just the Regular Rt. Climbed with long time friend John Pfeiffer. The Hutchinson Rt. was called the South Couloir. Again with J. P. and couple of other friends. Encountered ice in the couloir below Married Men's Point. Finally, the SE Buttress was called the South Ridge. Climbed with Hugh Sakols, Randy Freidlander, Mark Hoefer, Thayrn Henderson, and Dan Bussinger. Nearly lost the hacky sack attempting to hack on the summit. Whatever names these routes go by, it is fun and interesting climbing.
Posted Jan 12, 2004 1:10 pm

Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: SW Slope / NW Face Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2003  Sucess!

Matthew Holliman

An easy but very enjoyable dayhike out of North Lake, and the first fourth class peak I attempted by myself. (To give an indication of how easy the fourth class is on this route, I didn't even realise I'd climbed the first such section until I found myself on the arete--seemed more like 3rd class to me). This is a really fun peak! The downclimb proved to be easier than I'd expected.

To reach the notch, I followed the gully all the way up from where it begins, at the top of the talus fan (right where another gully descends from the notch on the righthand side of the summit). The gully itself is loose class 2 as advertised, but it's possible to keep to solid rock above this almost the whole way (class 2 or 3), avoiding the loose crud and making for an enjoyable climb.
Posted Oct 6, 2003 1:03 pm

Dave KRoute Climbed: Southwest Slope/Northwest Face  Sucess!

Dave K

A loooong, but very fun day on a big, intimidating-looking mountain. Humphreys' Basin is gorgeous.

I climbed it with my friends Sam, Etsuko (Kiwifzz) and Misha (Mlog).
Posted Sep 15, 2003 6:19 am

ocelotRoute Climbed: Humphreys Basin to the NW ridge Date Climbed: summer 1993  Sucess!


This was a fun climb with some exposure from the notch up the final couloir to the top. My 2 friends looked on from the notch. I guess being married had something to do with their decision to stay below.
Posted Aug 22, 2003 5:27 pm

Scott M.Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: July 7, 2003  Sucess!

Scott M.

Did a point to point day trip (11 hours) with Neil Satterfield of SMI in Bishop on an excellent day. Went up the East Arete and descended the NW face/SW slope. Finished off the day with a xc route over to Piute Lake and down to the North Lake trailhead. The East Arete is a quality route!
Posted Jul 8, 2003 2:46 pm

kullabergRoute Climbed: north west face from humpheys basin Date Climbed: may 2000  Sucess!


great early season climb. all the choss of the bottom 2/3 of the route was snowcovered and quite enjoyable.

my dog made it to 13000' , below the class 4 climbing.

fine day with good friends.
Posted Nov 28, 2002 7:22 pm

bearbnzRoute Climbed: Southwest Slope and Northwest Face Date Climbed: June 29, 2002


Climbed with ScottyS from Piute Pass. Of the 20+ peaks I climbed this summer, this was one of my favorites. The approach was good, the climbing was way fun, and the exposure is excellent for a 4th class route. Don't get bogged down looking at route pictures of the Southwest Face, you can go up nearly any of the chutes and come out at the right place.
Posted Sep 27, 2002 5:01 pm

Craig PeerRoute Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: 2000  Sucess!

Craig Peer

Climbed this excellent route with Kevin Jellison and Russ Faure - Brac. Videotaped the whole climb too. Highly recomended!
Posted Sep 23, 2002 11:02 am

Craig PeerRoute Climbed: Main North Couloir - 1st ascent Date Climbed: 1979

Craig Peer

Did the 1st ascent ( according to Secor ) of the main ice gully with Britt Reeves. The guy with the rope feined illness resulting in our free soloing the gully ( 800', 55 degrees ). Saw bighorn tracks at the top! An excellent ice climb.
Posted Sep 23, 2002 10:59 am

ScottySRoute Climbed: SW face to NW chute Date Climbed: June 29, 2002  Sucess!


Dayhiked with bearbnz on a perfect day. If you stay on rock, the SW face is not too bad. I thought the summit block was VERY cool!

More pics, etc are available on my homepage here.
Posted Aug 13, 2002 7:58 pm

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: SW slope and NW face Date Climbed: Aug. 8, 2001  Sucess!

Bob Burd

Day 5 of the Sierra Emblem Challenge 2001. Thunderstorms threatened so I got an early start at 5:20a from North Lake TH, reached summit at 11:00a, just in time for the first crack of thunder. Didn't stay long on the summit! Returned to TH at 3:00p.

The lower 3/4 of the mountain is nothing but loose junk. Once on the NW face, the climbing becomes quite enjoyable, and the class 4 moves are fairly easy.
Posted Aug 17, 2001 1:02 pm

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