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Mount Humphreys Climber's Log

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josephgdawsonRoute Climbed: Southwest Slope & Northwest Face Date Climbed: September 12, 2004  Sucess!


Got down to 35 degrees up near the summit. Brrrrr.

Jim Browsky must wear a cap.
Posted Sep 14, 2004 3:00 am

cp0915Route Climbed: SW Slope / NW Face Date Climbed: Sept 12, 2004  Sucess!


Great route with Joe Dawson. The perfect dayhike.
Posted Sep 13, 2004 11:38 am

mrolphRoute Climbed: SW Slope/NW Face Date Climbed: August 28, 2004  Sucess!


This was an outstanding dayhike. Although long, the approach hike is very scenic and enjoyable. The loose stuff in the gully getting to the notch did suck, but the climbing from there to the summit was great. It was an outsanding day too--clear, 100+ mile visibility, and light breezes. I was nervous about the class 4 sections but they went smoothly, both up and down.
Posted Aug 30, 2004 10:28 am

brandonRoute Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: July 8, 2004  Sucess!


Solo with Andrew from the Peaklet Saddle. 8:30 roundtrip from the car. Lot of fun. Finding the right gully and the traverse back around near the bottom of the arete was nearly the end of me. I'll pay closer attention next time.
Posted Jul 30, 2004 4:52 pm

poorboy44Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!


Approach is short, about 1.5-2 hours to the base. From the summit there is an awesome view of Desolation Basin (I think it's called?). Downclimbing the 5.4 headwall on the descent was the crux.
Posted Jul 23, 2004 2:32 pm

Sam MillsRoute Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: June 24, 2004  Sucess!

Sam Mills

Climbed this route with dug. Descended the East Ridge. Great views from the summit.
Posted Jun 26, 2004 11:58 am

ShaaseRoute Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: April 1998  Sucess!


Perfect spring corn
Posted Jun 22, 2004 4:05 pm

tiogapRoute Climbed: SW Chute to NW Ridge Date Climbed: September, 1980?  Sucess!


Second roped climb in the Sierra(first was Darwin). Really fun climb. want to do east arete
Posted Jun 5, 2004 5:08 pm

RSN473Route Climbed: SW slope and NW face Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2000  Sucess!


Climbed with reluctant buddy Myron. Lower portion of climb was loose and uninspiring. upper portion was a very enjoyable climb.
Posted Mar 11, 2004 4:38 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: Regular West Face Route Date Climbed: 1981  Sucess!
Solo day hike from North Lake. Also climbed Emerson on the way back.
Posted Jan 20, 2004 1:04 pm

Dave DinnellRoute Climbed: SW Slope/NW Face; Hutchinson Rt.; SE Buttress Date Climbed: Aug. 1985; July 1986; July 1987  Sucess!

Dave Dinnell

A terrific Peak. First eyed it in 1982 after backpacking north from Whitney Portal and vowed to come back to climb. My old Roper High Sierra Guide called the SW Slope/NW Face Rt. just the Regular Rt. Climbed with long time friend John Pfeiffer. The Hutchinson Rt. was called the South Couloir. Again with J. P. and couple of other friends. Encountered ice in the couloir below Married Men's Point. Finally, the SE Buttress was called the South Ridge. Climbed with Hugh Sakols, Randy Freidlander, Mark Hoefer, Thayrn Henderson, and Dan Bussinger. Nearly lost the hacky sack attempting to hack on the summit. Whatever names these routes go by, it is fun and interesting climbing.
Posted Jan 12, 2004 1:10 pm

Matthew HollimanRoute Climbed: SW Slope / NW Face Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2003  Sucess!

Matthew Holliman

An easy but very enjoyable dayhike out of North Lake, and the first fourth class peak I attempted by myself. (To give an indication of how easy the fourth class is on this route, I didn't even realise I'd climbed the first such section until I found myself on the arete--seemed more like 3rd class to me). This is a really fun peak! The downclimb proved to be easier than I'd expected.

To reach the notch, I followed the gully all the way up from where it begins, at the top of the talus fan (right where another gully descends from the notch on the righthand side of the summit). The gully itself is loose class 2 as advertised, but it's possible to keep to solid rock above this almost the whole way (class 2 or 3), avoiding the loose crud and making for an enjoyable climb.
Posted Oct 6, 2003 1:03 pm

MishaRoute Climbed: SW Slope / NW Face Date Climbed: September 14, 2003  Sucess!


Climbed this impressive peak with my girlfriend Etsuko, Dave Kiene, and Sam. We camped out near the highest of Humphreys lakes. On the summit day, we ascended the SW face 'direct' (did not follow any chutes) which was a combination of Class 2-4 climbing until we reached the gully (loose Class 2) that leads to the notch. From the notch we followed the standard NW Face route. Free-solo'ed pretty much the entire route except for the short (~10') Class-4 'crux' section right below the summit ridge. On the way down we set up two rappels and dropped down the steep NW face back to the notch. For the SW slope descend we chose the right-hand chute (left-hand if you look from the bottom). It was mostly Class 2 with the exception of several short Class 3-4 sections. Got back to the camp at 6:30pm, packed our stuff and went to the car, admiring an amazing sunset over the Humphreys Basin. Hiked out most of the way in the dark under the gorgeous night sky. Got back to the trailhead at 10:30pm. Looong day but what a beautiful one!

This is the most challenging peak I've climbed this year.
Posted Sep 15, 2003 7:29 pm

Dave KRoute Climbed: Southwest Slope/Northwest Face  Sucess!

Dave K

A loooong, but very fun day on a big, intimidating-looking mountain. Humphreys' Basin is gorgeous.

I climbed it with my friends Sam, Etsuko (Kiwifzz) and Misha (Mlog).
Posted Sep 15, 2003 6:19 am

ocelotRoute Climbed: Humphreys Basin to the NW ridge Date Climbed: summer 1993  Sucess!


This was a fun climb with some exposure from the notch up the final couloir to the top. My 2 friends looked on from the notch. I guess being married had something to do with their decision to stay below.
Posted Aug 22, 2003 5:27 pm

Rinat ShagisultanovRoute Climbed: SW Slope/NW Face Date Climbed: June 22, 2003  Sucess!

Rinat Shagisultanov

Four of us (Rinat Shagisultanov, Sergei Shoumko, Alex Kizler, Olga Tochkova) returned from the trip to Mt. Humphrey via SW slope/NW face (class 4). We travelled snow free via Puite Pass and had a base camp @ Marmot Lake. The upper part of Humphrey's basin still have some snow fields. but can all be bypassed. The snow on the plato is firm and excellent for walking without any snow snowshoes. Sunday morning we started @ 5 am via the wide chute left to the one that is descibed by Secor. We used the trip report by SnowBird (thank you, it helped a lot). The slope is almost snow free, there are few small patched, but there is nothing that cannot be bypassed on the scree. The route from the notch is fun class 4 climbing. We used 50 m rope for belaying, but I really expected something worse. We were at the summit @ 11:30 am and met a climber from Yosemite who made East arete (5.5) solo. The views are incredible, the weather was perfect without any famous t-storms. According to the summit log there were 3 groups in this spring. There are 3 rap stations on the way down with new slings and/or nuts and you can rap down the whole class 4 section down. Downclimbing the chute with scree and hiking out on the same day made Sunday a killer day (we reached the Puite Pass trailhead @ 8:40 pm).
Posted Jul 10, 2003 4:40 pm

Scott M.Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: July 7, 2003  Sucess!

Scott M.

Did a point to point day trip (11 hours) with Neil Satterfield of SMI in Bishop on an excellent day. Went up the East Arete and descended the NW face/SW slope. Finished off the day with a xc route over to Piute Lake and down to the North Lake trailhead. The East Arete is a quality route!
Posted Jul 8, 2003 2:46 pm

kullabergRoute Climbed: north west face from humpheys basin Date Climbed: may 2000  Sucess!


great early season climb. all the choss of the bottom 2/3 of the route was snowcovered and quite enjoyable.

my dog made it to 13000' , below the class 4 climbing.

fine day with good friends.
Posted Nov 28, 2002 7:22 pm

asmrzRoute Climbed: Craig Peer variation to the North Couloir Date Climbed: October 19, 2002


I climbed the North Couloir with the Direct finish on October 19, 2002. Started the climb at 8,200' by our truck. Michael Gordon was with me but felt sick at McGee Lake and turned around. I climbed the gully, which was rock hard water ice. I thought it was steeper than 60 degrees. I guess the more technical it gets, the steeper it gets (in my mind). I did not want to go to the top (have been there before), so I tried to go down via the NW Ridge. At the top of the gully, I could not find the connection to the top of the NW Ridge. From the notch, there was about 100 feet of fifth class climbing up and right. When I got to the top of what I thought to be NW Ridge, all I saw were steeply droping ridges. I could not find the top of the ridge. Anyone knows how to connect this? I downclimbed to the West and had to walk back over couple of cols to the talus above Mc Gee Lake. I had to bivi in the talus as I just ran out of daylight. Reached Michael and the truck at 10:00am. This is really good outing, someone stronger could easily make it RT in a day from the Trail Head.
Posted Nov 10, 2002 3:48 pm

bearbnzRoute Climbed: Southwest Slope and Northwest Face Date Climbed: June 29, 2002


Climbed with ScottyS from Piute Pass. Of the 20+ peaks I climbed this summer, this was one of my favorites. The approach was good, the climbing was way fun, and the exposure is excellent for a 4th class route. Don't get bogged down looking at route pictures of the Southwest Face, you can go up nearly any of the chutes and come out at the right place.
Posted Sep 27, 2002 5:01 pm

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