Dow Williams - Jun 29, 2011 12:45 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2011
Mount Humphreys
Full East Arete. Great day out with Peter S. 2nd day in the Eastern Sierra, Cardinal Pinnacle offered exceptional crack climbing yesterday, Humphreys gave me an alpine fix today. 8hrs+ car to car. Creek crossing on return at 4:pm was no worries for any truck in my opinion. If from the Canadian Rockies, we would call this a difficult scramble. We soloed, no rope or harnesses. Really easy terrain, super solid rock for what I am use to. Ridge snow free for most part. We should have had alpine axes for a much quicker descent (then without) down the snow field at the col but doable without an ax, just not advised. Along with another solo individual, 2nd registered ascent of the season. Beautiful country. About 5800' total gain registered on watch, couple hundred feet lost to col. Like an Alpine III in the Canadian Rockies. Beautiful camp site by the creek.
Vitaliy M. - Jun 19, 2011 2:21 pm Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011
Winter ascent
With Mark. Full east arete 5.5. Cool classic line
PellucidWombat - Feb 14, 2011 12:22 pm Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011
Full East Arete in Winter
Vitaliy and I started at the saddle between Magic McGee & the 13,000 ft subpeak and climbed the entire ridge. Boots & packs made it more fun. So did the snow cave bivy from 100' below the summit plateau.
Climber Dave - Feb 2, 2011 1:52 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010
Freezing Winds on the Southwest Slope
Climbed the Southwest Slope, freezing cold winds 30+ Mph was blowing snow from storm on the other side of Humphreys Basin on us. By the time we reached the summit we were so cold and the wind was blowing so hard, that we just signed in and bailed to get off before getting caught in a storm. Never even got to enjoy the view. Hope to be back, next time maybe the East Arete.
Postholed in and soloed until a slide in a northfacing couloir almost killed me just below the summit of 13,123. Climbed up and over shaking and a little bloody. No harm done, lesson learned.
Climbed with Hakan from Marmot Lake, belayed one pitch of class 4 (above the platform). The climb looked intimidating from the adjacent ridge above the notch, but it was a mellow one. We descended into a different gully based on a tip from climbers we met at the notch. Ended up making a 4th class traverse out of a lower gully, the traverse was over ledges covered with lots of loose rock. All in all a great day, we had the whole Humphreys basin to ourselves.
Daria - Aug 15, 2010 9:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2008
Great climb
Great summit, fun 4th class route
kraymes - May 22, 2010 6:15 pm Date Climbed: Oct 4, 1991
East Arete
I really loved this route. I think more than anything is that I had the most vivid dreams of my life on the bivy.
Tom Kenney - Oct 24, 2009 7:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2009
Augie Medina - Aug 30, 2009 8:31 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009
Nice 3d and 4th Class
Did day hike via SW Slope/NW Face. Very nice scrambling up from the little notch about 600 feet below the summit. But didn't care for the loose scree chutes below the notch.
seano - Aug 13, 2009 7:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009
Normal route
Alternate for 2009 Sierra Challenge. Good: took the middle of 3 main chutes to do more class 3 and less scree slogging. Bad: traversed too far right on final class 4 ridge, wasting time.
WML - Jul 30, 2009 1:52 am Date Climbed: May 14, 2009
North Couloir Direct
Topped out on the couloir for a snowboard descent. Mountaineering boots in snowboard bindings = bad decisions. Decided against climbing to the summit to bag it, as we planned to summit the next day VIA the East Arete. I got injured on the way down and that never occurred. Will be back to get this one FOR SURE.
This one got away. Climbing with Carter and a friend of hers. Going up to the first notch, we were fanned out across the width of the slope but at various levels of vertical. Friend, in the lead above, dislodged a small rock which sped toward Carter at warp speed. It missed her head but knicked her hand. We continued up to the notch, where Carter decided she had had enough. Friend and I continued, soon breaking out the rope. I led up some fourth or easy fifth class to a large belay "ledge" and was belaying Friend up when I shifted my weight a bit and the whole massive ledge rocked! It was one enormous loose, flat boulder. I shouted down to friend to reverse course and we beat a hasty retreat, tails between legs.
very cool trip with dave and the grund...got a flat tire on the approach road... which
tore the hell out of daves' subie... ..great weather and route.. grund and i soloed to
the summit... dave waited below for us.. fun climbin..
Dow Williams - Jun 29, 2011 12:45 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2011
Mount HumphreysFull East Arete. Great day out with Peter S. 2nd day in the Eastern Sierra, Cardinal Pinnacle offered exceptional crack climbing yesterday, Humphreys gave me an alpine fix today. 8hrs+ car to car. Creek crossing on return at 4:pm was no worries for any truck in my opinion. If from the Canadian Rockies, we would call this a difficult scramble. We soloed, no rope or harnesses. Really easy terrain, super solid rock for what I am use to. Ridge snow free for most part. We should have had alpine axes for a much quicker descent (then without) down the snow field at the col but doable without an ax, just not advised. Along with another solo individual, 2nd registered ascent of the season. Beautiful country. About 5800' total gain registered on watch, couple hundred feet lost to col. Like an Alpine III in the Canadian Rockies. Beautiful camp site by the creek.
Vitaliy M. - Jun 19, 2011 2:21 pm Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011
Winter ascentWith Mark. Full east arete 5.5. Cool classic line
PellucidWombat - Feb 14, 2011 12:22 pm Date Climbed: Feb 13, 2011
Full East Arete in WinterVitaliy and I started at the saddle between Magic McGee & the 13,000 ft subpeak and climbed the entire ridge. Boots & packs made it more fun. So did the snow cave bivy from 100' below the summit plateau.
Climber Dave - Feb 2, 2011 1:52 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010
Freezing Winds on the Southwest SlopeClimbed the Southwest Slope, freezing cold winds 30+ Mph was blowing snow from storm on the other side of Humphreys Basin on us. By the time we reached the summit we were so cold and the wind was blowing so hard, that we just signed in and bailed to get off before getting caught in a storm. Never even got to enjoy the view. Hope to be back, next time maybe the East Arete.
PlanIt - Jan 28, 2011 12:49 pm
Long walk in God's countryPostholed in and soloed until a slide in a northfacing couloir almost killed me just below the summit of 13,123. Climbed up and over shaking and a little bloody. No harm done, lesson learned.
gordonye - Sep 7, 2010 1:50 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010
SW sideClimbed with Hakan from Marmot Lake, belayed one pitch of class 4 (above the platform). The climb looked intimidating from the adjacent ridge above the notch, but it was a mellow one. We descended into a different gully based on a tip from climbers we met at the notch. Ended up making a 4th class traverse out of a lower gully, the traverse was over ledges covered with lots of loose rock. All in all a great day, we had the whole Humphreys basin to ourselves.
Daria - Aug 15, 2010 9:03 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2008
Great climbGreat summit, fun 4th class route
kraymes - May 22, 2010 6:15 pm Date Climbed: Oct 4, 1991
East AreteI really loved this route. I think more than anything is that I had the most vivid dreams of my life on the bivy.
Tom Kenney - Oct 24, 2009 7:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2009
Nice Birthday GiftGreat climb! Very thrilling. Thanks, Sean.
sardude - Sep 23, 2009 6:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2003
Did it100th anniversary climb
Augie Medina - Aug 30, 2009 8:31 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009
Nice 3d and 4th ClassDid day hike via SW Slope/NW Face. Very nice scrambling up from the little notch about 600 feet below the summit. But didn't care for the loose scree chutes below the notch.
seano - Aug 13, 2009 7:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009
Normal routeAlternate for 2009 Sierra Challenge. Good: took the middle of 3 main chutes to do more class 3 and less scree slogging. Bad: traversed too far right on final class 4 ridge, wasting time.
WML - Jul 30, 2009 1:52 am Date Climbed: May 14, 2009
North Couloir DirectTopped out on the couloir for a snowboard descent. Mountaineering boots in snowboard bindings = bad decisions. Decided against climbing to the summit to bag it, as we planned to summit the next day VIA the East Arete. I got injured on the way down and that never occurred. Will be back to get this one FOR SURE.
TheRootster - Jun 21, 2009 1:14 pm
East Arete Bail-outThis one got away. Climbing with Carter and a friend of hers. Going up to the first notch, we were fanned out across the width of the slope but at various levels of vertical. Friend, in the lead above, dislodged a small rock which sped toward Carter at warp speed. It missed her head but knicked her hand. We continued up to the notch, where Carter decided she had had enough. Friend and I continued, soon breaking out the rope. I led up some fourth or easy fifth class to a large belay "ledge" and was belaying Friend up when I shifted my weight a bit and the whole massive ledge rocked! It was one enormous loose, flat boulder. I shouted down to friend to reverse course and we beat a hasty retreat, tails between legs.
soslaw - Sep 29, 2008 12:10 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2008
SW Slope & NW FaceGood class 3-4 from @13,400 to summit.
Sam Roberts - Jul 31, 2008 6:42 pm
Normal RouteUp the normal route and down somewhere on the west face. Solo day hike from North Lake.
graham - Jul 22, 2008 4:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2008
East Ridge RouteClimbed the East Ridge with Tony & Jim under cloudy skies. Luckily we didn't get any rain. A superb route. C2C in 11 hours
Timmyb - Jul 14, 2008 10:05 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2008
Climbed South East ButtressClimbed with Dave S. and Seth V.. Super fun!
Brian Kalet - Apr 14, 2008 8:34 pm Date Climbed: Apr 13, 2008
North Couloir DirectTrip Report
ripper333 - Apr 4, 2008 1:36 am
east aretevery cool trip with dave and the grund...got a flat tire on the approach road... which
tore the hell out of daves' subie... ..great weather and route.. grund and i soloed to
the summit... dave waited below for us.. fun climbin..