BKW - May 25, 2009 12:44 am Date Climbed: May 23, 2009
West Ridge
We made this attempt in May trying to capitalize on the snow covered brush. We followed the route described by Ineher. The plan worked great until the the described permant snowfield just below the summit was in no condition to cross due to steep loose snow and avalanche conditions.
I climbed the bulk of this route on Saturday. After breaking knee and hip deep trail for hours, I was finally turned around by the increasing avalanche danger. The north faces of Index were sliding all morning and were increasing in size. Next time I try this peak, I think I'll approach from Persis.
DBaker - Sep 17, 2007 6:07 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007
Hourglass
Hourglass gully route. Mostly melted-out; class 4 stuff, two or three of the pitches might have been low 5th class. Brought set of nuts and a couple big tricams, skinny rope (9.2mm). Ample natural protection.
larryN - Aug 23, 2007 1:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007
West Ridge
We basically followed Smoot's "Climbing Washington's Mountains" route. However, we worked toward the north side of the West ridge and traversed the permanent snow field to avoid the 3rd class scrambling that Smoot mentions, making this a straight forward 2nd class route.
setrent - Jul 9, 2007 1:54 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007
North Ridge North Peak
A climb with much history. Some route finding and brush wacking lead to an airy exposed finish.
Route Climbed: Persis - Index Traverse Date Climbed: August 6, 2005
Had a few route-finding difficulties on the way there, but still managed to make it. Long ways to go! Camped at the tarns along the ridge; awesome spot!
Route Climbed: Persis to Index Date Climbed: Aug. 6, '05
It was a long day. Really liked the tarns along the way. Just a bit of route finding and veg belays. The gully taking you through to Anderson Pass is obvious. That was a question I first had. No problem.
Route Climbed: West Route (Mt. Persis - Mt. Index Traverse) Date Climbed: October 20, 2001
Climbed the West route along the ridge from Mt. Persis to the summit of Mt. Index. Descended the East Route to Lake Serene which required 1 short rappel and a lot of "brush belays" to descend from the ridge to the boulder field above the Lake.
BKW - May 25, 2009 12:44 am Date Climbed: May 23, 2009
West RidgeWe made this attempt in May trying to capitalize on the snow covered brush. We followed the route described by Ineher. The plan worked great until the the described permant snowfield just below the summit was in no condition to cross due to steep loose snow and avalanche conditions.
Cascade Scrambler - May 17, 2009 2:22 pm Date Climbed: May 16, 2009
GnarlyI climbed the bulk of this route on Saturday. After breaking knee and hip deep trail for hours, I was finally turned around by the increasing avalanche danger. The north faces of Index were sliding all morning and were increasing in size. Next time I try this peak, I think I'll approach from Persis.
DBaker - Sep 17, 2007 6:07 pm Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2007
HourglassHourglass gully route. Mostly melted-out; class 4 stuff, two or three of the pitches might have been low 5th class. Brought set of nuts and a couple big tricams, skinny rope (9.2mm). Ample natural protection.
larryN - Aug 23, 2007 1:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2007
West RidgeWe basically followed Smoot's "Climbing Washington's Mountains" route. However, we worked toward the north side of the West ridge and traversed the permanent snow field to avoid the 3rd class scrambling that Smoot mentions, making this a straight forward 2nd class route.
setrent - Jul 9, 2007 1:54 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007
North Ridge North PeakA climb with much history. Some route finding and brush wacking lead to an airy exposed finish.
Franko1946 - Oct 2, 2005 10:50 pm
Route Climbed: Snow gully up east side Date Climbed: May 1978Huge cornice on top.
Andy Dewey - Aug 8, 2005 4:39 am
Route Climbed: Persis - Index Traverse Date Climbed: August 6, 2005Had a few route-finding difficulties on the way there, but still managed to make it. Long ways to go! Camped at the tarns along the ridge; awesome spot!
ren - Aug 7, 2005 9:45 pm
Route Climbed: Persis to Index Date Climbed: Aug. 6, '05It was a long day. Really liked the tarns along the way. Just a bit of route finding and veg belays. The gully taking you through to Anderson Pass is obvious. That was a question I first had. No problem.
Bronco - Oct 30, 2001 9:40 am
Route Climbed: West Route (Mt. Persis - Mt. Index Traverse) Date Climbed: October 20, 2001Climbed the West route along the ridge from Mt. Persis to the summit of Mt. Index. Descended the East Route to Lake Serene which required 1 short rappel and a lot of "brush belays" to descend from the ridge to the boulder field above the Lake.