Attempted East Ridge of Kitchener with Andrew and Mark Nugara. Ascended East Ridge of K2, descended to Kitchener col, but heat of the sun made the glacier a big surplee, we bailed and returned to successfully climb Kitchener the next year; approach via south slopes of K2 to col in 2006, recommended approach.
On a solo stint of 11ers in the Canadian Rockies, 4th in two weeks. First day I had out when the sun was hot on my back while climbing an ice/snow slope. Partially due to a late start (7:am) not to mention the final 1000' to reach the notch on Kitchener's summit ridge from the east ridge is a 40-50 degree small glacier that faces due southeast. I was second entry in K2's log book (peak hiding Kitchener from the road), first was in 1998 and book still in brand new condition. The greatest concern at the moment is with sun exposed snow slopes at higher elevation like the one I was just on. Besides rock fall from snow melt, the slopes themselves are quite sensitive, needing only the slightest trigger to slough isothermal snow. A crevasse did cut across this referenced "snow slope". I chose a line of recent point releases assuming that was the firmest snow, but still fell into holes. My Sunwapta river return crossing attracted tourists from the road and for good reason..it was by far the most difficult I ever made! Rivers are raging still...best whitewater season I have ever seen up here. Saw three separate black bears. One with new sunburnt cub, large grizzly looking male near Mosquito Creek (same ole bear) and young recently weaned individual.