This mountain isn't worth the amount of effort it takes to climb (the only thing that makes it appealing is that unlike Mount Lena, you can see Lower Lena Lake). We started our route by backtracking from Upper Lena Lake down the trail until we saw a very steep scree/brush slope to our left. After reaching the top of this slope (about 15 minutes of hiking), we navigated around various terrain to get to the back side of the mountain. From here we used crampons on and off on the snow fields still left. Near the top we got lost and ended up doing some exposed scrambling (Class 3-4) to reach the top; if you try this peak, examine the different routes before trying any (it turns out that had we hiked more to the left, there would have been a much easier route).
East Peak And Main Peak Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2012
After dumping our overnight gear at camp we hiked up onto the southwest ridge. From there we scrambled up to the knife-edge which didn't look safe. We traversed on the west face below a rock wall and then used a steep exposed ledge system to regain the ridge beyond the knife-edge. On the descend we discovered that the north ridge is safer and less exposed contrary to what the map indicates. The next day we climbed Mount Lena and attempted Bretherton.