Mount Lougheed Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|EricK||Long day, but splendid! |
Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2013
|A friend and I set out to do the traverse in one day. Set out at 3:30 am, and began the steep terrain on the NW summit at first light. We had quite the time routefinding on the first summit. Eventually found our way through the messy chopped up cliff bands, and made it to the wild summit ridge. |
The second (main) summit was definitely not the best of the day. gravel on slab, lower quality rock in general.
Third summit, is put your head down and SLOG. It's not that bad though. We were 45 minutes from leaving the second summit to being on top of the third.
Fourth summit (Wind Mountain) we unfortunately had to forego the summit due to time, but still had to climb most of it just to gain the ridge in order to get onto the SW descent ridge. Much better than the second summit, much better rock, fun climbing, exposed, delightful. Tricky routefinding again though.
Hit the SW ridge of Wind just as the sun set. Navigating down that scree slope was ETERNAL by headlamp. absolutely neverending, and nervewracking because it appeared that the slopes frequently cliff out. In the end we never encountered anything harder than we had on any of the four summits.
We hit the forest at the bottom and bushwhacked to the trail (took 4 hrs from the summit ridge to the trail. i'm sure in the light we'd have found a trail. maybe?)
The trail out the North Ribbon was slow going. Epic erosion in places due to 2013 flood. Large landslides force you to climb up and around the washed out areas, which are numerous through very thick dense brush. Once you hit the superhighway Ribbon Creek Trail, it's much better going (even though it's closed). There are also large landslides through here and lots of walking through riverbed, but you keep picking up the remaining trail and push through. Got back to the car at 6:30am. 27 hours of awesome.
|Posted Sep 13, 2013 10:33 pm|
|highice||wind and ropes|
|brent raymond and I met for an overnight climb of this peak. didn't take snowshoes and literally crawled on hand and shins for 800 vertical ft. before we were able to hike on our feet! climbed the 5th class face and bivied on top, in a mild blizzard w/ no sleeping bags, just down parkas and e-bags. next day, we did several raps. got the ropes stuck when he tossed them down (instead of throwing them down against the updrafts) and the wind picked them up and carried them around a corner. we were stuck for 30 minutes, before we decided to give them one last tug...brent threw himself off a short cliff, dislodging the ropes, along with tons of rock. at least we had them! one rope was severely cut in the middle and both were thrashed, but we were able to get down. so much for my brand new ropes, but we were safe. you were a hard core brent, I'll miss you.|
|Posted Feb 1, 2007 5:31 pm|