Yosemite National Park > Mount Lyell > Climber's LogMount Lyell Climber's Log
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[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
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| Bob Burd | Route Climbed: Lyell Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2004  | |
| Day 2 of the 2004 Sierra Challenge. 5.5hrs to the summit, 11hr40min CTC including a stop at Maclure. Trip Report | |
| Posted Sep 29, 2004 12:12 am | ||
| mpyle | Route Climbed: Lyell Glacier/West Ridge Date Climbed: 12 September 2004 | |
| A really neat climb. From camp near 11,000', got a late start but still found the glacier treacherously icy in the morning. My brother had full crampons, but I only had some partials. We bypassed the glacier on the right side, going nearly to the Lyell/Maclure col before traversing the upper part of the glacier toward the summit. Got off the glacier as quickly as possible, and went up the class 2-3 ledges. Having seen pictures beforehand, and having looked at the mountain below, I never really expected to reach the top. Great views, and a great mix of non-technical climbing over snow/ice/rock. | |
| Posted Sep 24, 2004 1:20 pm | ||
| PellucidWombat | Route Climbed: Lyell Glacier/East Ridge Date Climbed: August 1, 2004 | |
| Quite a bear to dayhike! Especially with Maclure included. I did this peak as part of the Sierra Challenge, climbing the glacier before angling towards the col to the east, where Joel and I found a nice class 3 ledge system leading to the summit. | |
| Posted Aug 10, 2004 4:19 pm | ||
| Diggler | Route Climbed: W Ridge from Lyell Glacier Date Climbed: 24 July, 2004 | |
| Magnificent peak, but wish I could have enjoyed it more. Not wanting to chance wilderness permits being all taken, decided to do it in a day. Being at sea-level the day before, as well as getting 3 hours of sleep before undertaking this, was a bad idea. Felt like dog crap the whole day, but it certainly was a grand summit. Glacier had enough snow cover that I didn't need crampons. "Class 3" from the saddle to the easy class 2 (decent exposure on solid rock) was a lot of fun! | |
| Posted Aug 2, 2004 11:30 am | ||
| Samantha | Route Climbed: Lyell Glacier Date Climbed: 6/27/04 | |
| Great climb, good snow, awesome views. The approach is awfully pretty up Lyell Canyon. | |
| Posted Jun 29, 2004 1:29 pm | ||
| Dave K | Route Climbed: Lyell Galcier Date Climbed: June 27, 2004 | |
| Very rewarding climb. The Lyell area is stunningly gorgeous! We were lucky in our timing because a couple of hours later the area was surrounded by thunder clouds. | |
| Posted Jun 28, 2004 9:44 pm | ||
| kovarpa | Route Climbed: East Ridge (Arete) Date Climbed: June 20, 2004 | |
| Wow!!!! At least the begining of the ridge is not Class 3 in my book... I was glad I brought a piece of rope so that I could tie Vendula in. There is significant exposure on both sides while climbing the ridge - definitely not for those who get dizzy easily. This is an awesome climb with beatiful scenery along the way on the approach and great views from the top. | |
| Posted Jun 21, 2004 8:51 pm | ||
| tiogap | Route Climbed: Lyell Glacier Date Climbed: September, 1980 | |
| great peak with great views. | |
| Posted Jun 5, 2004 9:29 pm | ||
| dankras | Route Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 20, 2004 | |
| good class 3 scramble | |
| Posted May 24, 2004 2:32 am | ||
| Completebum | Route Climbed: Lyell Glacier Date Climbed: July 15, 2003 | |
| Managed to squeeze this one in a day. Started at about 1, bivied about 600ft above the JMT and summited the next day. That is the last time I go to Yosemite in July without gallons of DEET. | |
| Posted Apr 25, 2004 11:19 pm | ||
| lidijagrazulis | Route Climbed: Lyell Glacier Date Climbed: July 5, 2003 | |
| Made it easily all the way up to the summit block, where we unfortunately got off route and wound up on some insanely exposed mixed rock and ice climbing with no good holds. The downclimb back to the glacier was among the scariest things I've ever done, but the glissade afterwards among the funnest! Would love to try this peak again... | |
| Posted Feb 19, 2004 12:33 pm | ||
| Nelson | Route Climbed: Lyell Glacier Date Climbed: August, 1975 | |
| My second (and last, so far) Sierra summit. I moved out of California a month later. But seeing the beauty of the high Sierra that summer of '75 changed the life of this New York City boy. | |
| Posted Feb 7, 2004 4:17 pm | ||
| Sam Mills | Route Climbed: Lyell Glacier Date Climbed: August 2003 | |
| A solo day hike from the Dog Lake TH parking lot. I left my truck at 4:00 am and was back at 5:20 pm. 27+ miles in 13 hours 20 minutes. | |
| Posted Jan 29, 2004 4:56 pm | ||
| mtnfoto | Route Climbed: Lyell Glacier Date Climbed: June 1976 | |
| Uneventful climb up the glacier and over the rocks. Scrambled up Maclure also. | ||
| Posted Jan 22, 2004 2:54 pm | ||
| Dave Dinnell | Route Climbed: Lyell Glacier Date Climbed: August 6, 1987 | |
| First of 3 peaks for the day-Climbed severely sun-cupped Lyell Glacier Rt., traversed back to the Lyell-Maclure Col, climbed SE Ridge of Maclure then descended S. Face, traversed out across Donohue Pass and climbed Donohue Peak via SW Ridge before descending down Kuna Creek to Lyell Canyon. Great day trip! | |
| Posted Jan 10, 2004 12:50 am | ||
| Peak Freak | Route Climbed: East Arete Date Climbed: August 24, 2003 | |
| Another beautiful California trip. This time with Daniel & Ben. Gained some great experience on the most exposed "scrambling" I have encountered yet. | |
| Posted Nov 19, 2003 1:53 am | ||
| Bill Ott | Route Climbed: from the Lyell-Maclure saddle Date Climbed: July, 1994 | |
| My Nephew waited at the saddle while I scrambled to the summit. What a view! We hurried back down as snow, hale, and rain soaked us, and of course yours truley had left the tent unzipped. The mosquitoes weren't too bad, but these retched flys kept biting us as we hiked Lyell Canyon. | |
| Posted Aug 31, 2003 10:31 am | ||
| Matthew Holliman | Route Climbed: Lyell Glacier variation Date Climbed: July 19, 2003; Aug 1, 2004 | |
| This turned out to be an epic day hike from Tuolumne Meadows during some unusually unsettled Sierra weather. I left too late (5am), took longer than I expected to make it up to the peak (met fellow SPers Misha and Etsuko on the way up), and was but a few yards from the summit when I heard a boom and saw lightning just a few hundred yards away. Getting off the summit ridge seemed a higher priority than signing the summit register. The only exit was down the Lyell Glacier, which was the target of that first strike, so I spent a very scary half hour crouched in a chute somewhere on Lyell's north face--it seemed about the safest place I could find up there. Made it back down as the storm subsided. There's a long-winded TR on my website. Came back in early August 2004 for a Maclure/Lyell dayhike out of Tuolumne Meadows--this went a fair bit better than my first trip. I'd left my crampons behind this time to save weight, and with only an ice axe, found the exit onto the rock from the glacier to be a bit spicy... I had to chop steps in the icy snow for tenuous footholds. I'd take the crampons if I went back again. | |
| Posted Jul 21, 2003 10:24 am | ||
| Misha | Route Climbed: One of the Lyell Glacier variations Date Climbed: July 19, 2003 | |
| After craving for Lyell climb for more than a year, kiwifzzz and I finally summited it via Lyell Glacier. Originally, we planned to climb East Arete but since I conveniently forgot my shades in our camp (doh!!!), we decided to keep our snow exposure to the minimum and headed up one of the chutes to the left of the saddle. It turned out to be a great route! Snow steepened towards the end and exited on the ~100' Class 3 section that led us to the summit plateau. From there it was an easy scramble to the summit. We climbed up both West (lower) and the higher East summit blocks. After leaving a note in the register and observing rapidly approaching storm clouds, we scrapped our Maclure plans and ran back down. As it turned out, we were too late and got caught up in the brutal hailstorm on the way down to our tent. What a great mountain and an epic journey!!! We will come back to climb Maclure next year. | |
| Posted Jul 21, 2003 8:55 am | ||
| gordonye | Route Climbed: East Ridge from Marie Lakes Date Climbed: August 24, 2002 | |
| My partner Vladimir Ulyashin reached the summit. I reached 200 feet below on East Ridge where I couldn't progress beyond the class 4-5 gendarmes (Vladimir followed the ridge all the way by down climbing each gendarme, then climbing up). Secor's book advises to drop down to the East Arrete route when stopped by the gendarmes, but I was confused about where East Arrete was. Very exciting trip (free climbing) with two knife ridge traverses, the first one is the ridge connecting Lyell with Rodgers Peak, mostly class 3; the second and more difficult one is the east ridge of Lyell between the first east side col and the summit. | |
| Posted Aug 27, 2002 2:59 pm | ||
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