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Mount Lyell Climber's Log

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JonodoLyell / Maclure Col  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2009

Jonodo

Camped in Lyell Canyon and summited the following day. A slight dusting of snow made the climbing a little more interesting. Winds were fierce. We were hit by a mild early season storm the night after we climbed the peak. The snow made for a beautiful setting and lots fewer people.
Posted Oct 5, 2009 3:28 pm

AlpinistNorthern approach   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009

Alpinist

Climbed during a 6-day backpacking trip. We camped at the footbridge at 9500ft and approached cross country from the north via Maclure Lake. Ascended the glacier towards the saddle and followed it back to below the summit block. Easy rock climbing from there but the upper glacier was steep, frozen and a bit dicey with my summer crampons (strap ons). Descended the class 4 western ridge and followed the PCT back to camp.
Posted Sep 13, 2009 8:30 pm

iditarod81Lyell/McLure col.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009

iditarod81

Hiked 8 miles into Lyell Canyon & summited the next day. Great weather, didn't need crampons on the glacier. Key was going to the right of the buttress. We ran into a party who summited via the arete the day before and claimed they ran into a 5.6 crack on the way up. We didn't see anything beyond class 4 (cf. Secor).
Posted Aug 31, 2009 4:06 pm

pjc30943Day climb  Sucess!
Awesome scenery, but a very long day hike.
Posted Aug 5, 2009 2:24 am

MishaLongish day-hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2009

Misha

In my finest tradition of dragging unsuspecting newbies up death hikes, I took my coworker on this stroll from the Meadows. We drove from the Bay Area after work, slept for 2 hours, started from the trailhead at 3:30am and returned at 7:30pm, rather exhausted. David had a bunch of firsts that day: snow climbing, using ice axe and crampons and some altitude sickness! Despite the adversity, we made it to the top in good form; the only party on the summit that day. Prospects of missing dinner at Whoa Nelli Deli discouraged our desire to bag Maclure. Next time, I guess...
Posted Jul 27, 2009 8:42 pm

Dave Kvia the glacier
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2009

Dave K

Hiked up Lyell Canyon with Gordon, Samantha and another friend.

This was my second time on the summit. Man that's beautiful country!
Posted Jul 20, 2009 2:39 pm

gordonyeLyell & Maclure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2009

gordonye

Climbed both Lyell and Maclure with Samantha, Dave, and another friend. We ascended the west buttress of the summit plateau through some class 4 rock, reached summit, then descended via easier class 3 rock down to the glacier in the middle of the north face. Finally made it 7 years after my last unsuccessful attempt. Lyell Canyon is a really beautiful gem of the High Sierra.
Posted Jul 20, 2009 11:04 am

96avs01Short Sidetrip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009

96avs01

A quick late afternoon sidetrip during a JMT backpacking trip over 4th of July weekend. Many thanks to the day's previous party that had put in a fine bootpack!
Posted Jul 6, 2009 2:50 pm

ylamurtoLyell  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009

ylamurto

See the post below. First ascent this year according to the summit log.
Posted Jun 21, 2009 10:18 pm

Bill KishEast Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009

Bill Kish

East Arete with Tommi and David. We had continuous snow above 10,500'. The scramble along the ridge was quite fun and exposed.
Posted Jun 21, 2009 6:49 pm

TheRootster2nd Times a Charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 5, 1994

TheRootster

First time I attempted Lyell was in April 1976, on my first ice-and-snow mountaineering trip with John, Marlene, and Michael. We hiked in from Agnew Meadows, first climbed Ritter from Lake Ediza, then continued north to Marie Lakes and tried Lyell's East Arete route. came to a knife-edge ridge that seemed more than we wanted to try. Second attempt on Lyell was with Carter and Prentice on the regular route from Tuolumne Meadows. One pitch of steep near the top wigged out both ladies to tears, but we made the summit without a rope. Looking at the summit register, it seemed they were the first two women on the summit that season, so our trip was renamed "First Babes of The Season on Lyell Expedition 1994." On the way down, I decided that I'd better belay them down the one steep pitcch for their peace of mind. I did so, and when I got down they said, beaming, "That was easy, we didn't need the rope." Amazing what a little security can do, eh?
Posted Jun 21, 2009 2:15 pm

brucegJMT 1976  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 1976

bruceg

Climbed with Greg and Carl. Second day of a month on the JMT.
Posted Apr 24, 2009 8:31 pm

mthomasNice little solo trip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2005

mthomas

Nice little solo trip from Tuolomne Meadows to Parsons Peak and Mt. Lyell. The receeding snow/ice line made for a few Class 4 moves off the glacier to the rock.
Posted Mar 15, 2009 10:38 am

thexcatTuolumne Meadows  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2008

thexcat

Climbed Lyell and Maclure in one day. Attempted and failed same trip 1 month earlier. Had the whole mountain to myself. Left Tuolomne meadows at 3am, made it to Lyell-Maclure saddle by 8am, off both summits by 1pm and back to the car around 7pm. Got caught by a nasty thunder, hail and rain storm on the way down and hurt my ankle pretty bad so the return was slow.
Posted Jul 28, 2008 1:59 pm

Sam PageFun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 1994

Sam Page

I forget the exact date. We bivied (me with no tent or sleeping bag, just to experiment) at trail's end, then climbed exhilaratingly steep snow to the top.
Posted Apr 19, 2008 10:46 pm

panweilinA 28-hr day day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007

panweilin

zurg and I started the hike from Tuolumne Lodge Trailhead at 5:15am Saturday 7/21, peaked Mt. Lyell (13,114 ft) about 3:40pm, came down passing the glacier till 12,000ft, and continued to the talus about 11,900ft, where at around 7pm zurg stepped on a loose boulder and fell, while the boulder rolled over and pinned down his two legs. I rushed down and together with zurg, used ice axes to lift up the boulder for about one inch to free zurg's left leg, then the two pushed/pulled the boulder further for zurg to pull out his right leg. Fortunately there was no broken bone, as zurg could still manage to stand up and move around. His left foot got swollen and couldn't get out of his boot, and there were various scratches and bruises on his right leg, left arm, and both hands. After evaluating the situation, we decided to continue descending. I carried all zurg's gears, while zurg enduring the pain of limp walking with the help of hiking poles. The two slowly hiked out the 1.5 mile off-trail section, hit the trail at 11pm, covered the rest 10 miles on trail, and eventually returned to the trailhead safely at 9am Sunday 7/22.
Posted Oct 25, 2007 2:17 pm

leftyFrom the Saddle  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2007

lefty

Tagged both Lyell and Maclure
Posted Sep 14, 2007 9:29 pm

Zingedayhike lyell-maclure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2007

Zinge

Made for one hell of a long day... but well worth it!
Posted Sep 11, 2007 12:52 am

rhyangEast Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2007

rhyang

Climbed up left side of glacier to East Arete; lots of ice patches on glacier - clearly the melt streams have been freezing overnight - bring steel crampons and know french technique ! There were pools of ice near the moraine.

Fantastic views, perfect day, a bit windy. Descended standard route to Lyell-Maclure saddle. The glacier was in better condition from there (smaller ice patches, more snow).
Posted Aug 6, 2007 3:53 am

bechttGlacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2007

bechtt

Crossed schrund via what appeared as the last snow bridge. Peak #1 on JMT adventure.
Posted Aug 1, 2007 4:51 pm

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