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Mount Lyell Climber's Log

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JiveyNE Approach, Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2010


Went for it solo after my partners all bailed. Started at Tuolumne and camped out right around timberline. Had really fine weather but the glacier was in bad shape with sun cups, which made for a rough patch. Other than that, straightforward rock scrambling up to the summit, with a truly breathtaking view. Beautiful climb!
Posted May 6, 2011 4:54 pm

mountainmattEast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2010


Climbed up a number of times throughout my years in the park. Awesome view!
Posted Feb 7, 2011 7:59 pm

Princess ButtercupLong way in...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010

Princess Buttercup

Up the SE ridge from the (really long and suncupped) glacier. A gorgeous peak with tremendous views!
Posted Nov 15, 2010 11:49 pm

NateELyell Mclure Col
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2010


This was the opener to a week of backpacking in Yosemite. We hiked in from Tuolomne and camped just as the trail starts to ascend. As I was the only one really excited about summitting Lyell, we got a late start the next day. Two of us made it to the Col. I was able to scramble part way up the summit ridge solo, but turned back before getting all the way. I think I will come back to give this one another try. Amazing country here.
Posted Sep 3, 2010 12:36 pm

ckerthLyell / Maclure Col  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010


Camped near tree line along the Lyell Fork. Climbed Lyell and Maclure from the col.
Posted Aug 23, 2010 7:06 pm

seanoEast arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010


Daytrip from Tuolomne. The glacier is longer than it looks. Trip report
Posted Aug 22, 2010 11:27 pm

bennovakGlacier Direct  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2010


Suncups made the snow travel very tedious and slow. Avoided the schrund on the left (East) on the way up and the right (West) on the way down. All the rock we found was fine class 3.
Posted Aug 6, 2010 8:40 pm

mrchad92x  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2010


Second time up, the first in August 2007 with Ron when doing the CA county highpoints.

Headed back with Vitaliy and Max to get Maclure as well. Great scenery and the weather held out just enough for us.

Lots of snow cover completely covered the bergschrund, until I fell though it up to my chest. A little surpising, and looking back into it, a huge space, up to 15+ feet deep in places.
Posted Jul 26, 2010 12:46 pm

JonodoLyell / Maclure Col  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 3, 2009


Camped in Lyell Canyon and summited the following day. A slight dusting of snow made the climbing a little more interesting. Winds were fierce. We were hit by a mild early season storm the night after we climbed the peak. The snow made for a beautiful setting and lots fewer people.
Posted Oct 5, 2009 3:28 pm

AlpinistNorthern approach   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009


Climbed during a 6-day backpacking trip. We camped at the footbridge at 9500ft and approached cross country from the north via Maclure Lake. Ascended the glacier towards the saddle and followed it back to below the summit block. Easy rock climbing from there but the upper glacier was steep, frozen and a bit dicey with my summer crampons (strap ons). Descended the class 4 western ridge and followed the PCT back to camp.
Posted Sep 13, 2009 8:30 pm

iditarod81Lyell/McLure col.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2009


Hiked 8 miles into Lyell Canyon & summited the next day. Great weather, didn't need crampons on the glacier. Key was going to the right of the buttress. We ran into a party who summited via the arete the day before and claimed they ran into a 5.6 crack on the way up. We didn't see anything beyond class 4 (cf. Secor).
Posted Aug 31, 2009 4:06 pm

pjc30943Day climb  Sucess!
Awesome scenery, but a very long day hike.
Posted Aug 5, 2009 2:24 am

MishaLongish day-hike  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2009


In my finest tradition of dragging unsuspecting newbies up death hikes, I took my coworker on this stroll from the Meadows. We drove from the Bay Area after work, slept for 2 hours, started from the trailhead at 3:30am and returned at 7:30pm, rather exhausted. David had a bunch of firsts that day: snow climbing, using ice axe and crampons and some altitude sickness! Despite the adversity, we made it to the top in good form; the only party on the summit that day. Prospects of missing dinner at Whoa Nelli Deli discouraged our desire to bag Maclure. Next time, I guess...
Posted Jul 27, 2009 8:42 pm

Dave Kvia the glacier
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2009
Hiked up Lyell Canyon with Gordon, Samantha and another friend.

This was my second time on the summit. Man that's beautiful country!
Posted Jul 20, 2009 2:39 pm

gordonyeLyell & Maclure  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2009


Climbed both Lyell and Maclure with Samantha, Dave, and another friend. We ascended the west buttress of the summit plateau through some class 4 rock, reached summit, then descended via easier class 3 rock down to the glacier in the middle of the north face. Finally made it 7 years after my last unsuccessful attempt. Lyell Canyon is a really beautiful gem of the High Sierra.
Posted Jul 20, 2009 11:04 am

96avs01Short Sidetrip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009


A quick late afternoon sidetrip during a JMT backpacking trip over 4th of July weekend. Many thanks to the day's previous party that had put in a fine bootpack!
Posted Jul 6, 2009 2:50 pm

Bill KishEast Arete  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009

Bill Kish

East Arete with Tommi and David. We had continuous snow above 10,500'. The scramble along the ridge was quite fun and exposed.
Posted Jun 21, 2009 6:49 pm

TheRootster2nd Times a Charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 5, 1994


First time I attempted Lyell was in April 1976, on my first ice-and-snow mountaineering trip with John, Marlene, and Michael. We hiked in from Agnew Meadows, first climbed Ritter from Lake Ediza, then continued north to Marie Lakes and tried Lyell's East Arete route. came to a knife-edge ridge that seemed more than we wanted to try. Second attempt on Lyell was with Carter and Prentice on the regular route from Tuolumne Meadows. One pitch of steep near the top wigged out both ladies to tears, but we made the summit without a rope. Looking at the summit register, it seemed they were the first two women on the summit that season, so our trip was renamed "First Babes of The Season on Lyell Expedition 1994." On the way down, I decided that I'd better belay them down the one steep pitcch for their peace of mind. I did so, and when I got down they said, beaming, "That was easy, we didn't need the rope." Amazing what a little security can do, eh?
Posted Jun 21, 2009 2:15 pm

brucegJMT 1976  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 1976


Climbed with Greg and Carl. Second day of a month on the JMT.
Posted Apr 24, 2009 8:31 pm

mthomasNice little solo trip  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2005


Nice little solo trip from Tuolomne Meadows to Parsons Peak and Mt. Lyell. The receeding snow/ice line made for a few Class 4 moves off the glacier to the rock.
Posted Mar 15, 2009 10:38 am

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