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Mount Mallory Climber's Log

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ShanoRoute Climbed: Meysan Lake straight to the top Date Climbed: Aug 2003  Sucess!

Shano

Did this as a day hike from Portal Rd (bivied @ Tuttle Creek - not the best preparation) via Meysan Lake trail.

3 of the party linked to Irvine after we topped out on Mallory. I had to bring down an altitude sick partner and was not able to knock off Mallory. Descent route down the chute between Mallory and Irvine looks like a good winter/spring pitch given enough ice formation.

Back at the cars at 10pm (not a very fast day.)

I'll be back to do this one again...
Posted Apr 1, 2004 10:19 am

cragRoute Climbed: East slope Date Climbed: August 1999  Sucess!

crag

Spent the night at Meysan Lake and got an early start on the East slope. Fun summit block, great view. Lots of rockfall in the gulley. Should have combined with Irvine and/or LeConte. Oh well, next time.
Posted Jan 23, 2004 1:08 pm

mtnfotoRoute Climbed: East slopes Date Climbed: 1998  Sucess!
Climbed this as a day hike with Irvine and Candlelight.
Posted Jan 22, 2004 3:00 pm

thebeave7Route Climbed: Up East Slope, down North ridge Date Climbed: August 29th, 2003  Sucess!

thebeave7

Peak number three on the day. The down climb was a lot more fun. Bob will be happy to know that the West side of the North ridge is a fun Class 3 down climb. I will submit both a trip report and a route report for this.
Posted Aug 30, 2003 10:30 pm

Joe HanssenRoute Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: August 25 '02  Sucess!

Joe Hanssen

Climbed Mallory as part of the '02 Sierra Mountaineers Challenge. Great back-to-back climb with Mt LeConte.
Posted Mar 3, 2003 5:11 pm

asmrzRoute Climbed: From Meysan Lakes Date Climbed: June 2002  Sucess!

asmrz

Penelope May and I climbed Mt.Mallory from the upper Meysan Lake in June 2002. We took about 5 hours to hike the Meysan Lakes trail on Saturday. Camped at the highest lake below the East Buttress of Mt. Irvine. Early Sunday, hiked up one of the "Five Finger" gullies (see my picture) to the ridge between Le Conte and Mallory and from there, to Mallory's summit. The problem turned out to be our descent down the gully that Secor's 2nd Edition recommends going up. It was steep and hard snow. We had some "interesting" downclinbing facing in, with crampons and ice axe, down this gully. But we made it down safely and after packing up our tent, took 3 hours to hike back to our car at Meysan Lakes Trailhead. This can be easily done on a two day weekend. Mt Irvine and Le Conte as well.
Posted Nov 20, 2002 11:29 am

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: East Slope (ascent) / East Chute (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2002  Sucess!

Bob Burd

Day 9 of the 2002 Mountaineers Challenge. Dayhiking from Whitney Portal, three of us climbed LeConte first. I left the others for an attempt on Corcoran (I got lost, but found some fun scrambling while I blew three hours) then came back to climb Mallory. I thought it would be just a slog, but it turned out to have some fun class 3 at the summit. The big mistake of the day was descending the East Chute. Just finding my way down to the entrance was a pain, as I descended twice from the east ridge only to have to climb back out when I got cliffed out. Finally reaching the chute, it turned out to be incredibly tedious and loose. No short cut there! Trip Report.
Posted Nov 20, 2002 9:48 am

Dave KRoute Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: August 2002  Sucess!

Dave K

I climbed it with my friend Mike. Despite an early start from the Portal, we did not arrive back at his truck until after midnight because of some unexpected delays. Still, it was a great day in a beautiful area. We had hoped to climb Mts. LeConte and Corcoran that day, too.
Posted Nov 19, 2002 11:16 pm

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