Matt Lemke - Jun 4, 2016 11:10 pm Date Climbed: May 12, 2016
Straight up the north face
This was my first peak in Canada and it sure was a good one. We hiked up the mostly melted out Joffre Lakes Trail and made a day trip out of it. We went up the snow slopes above the upper lake and onto the flat glacier above. It was a long hot walk to the steeper slopes leading up the north face, which had some great snow for kick stepping. At the summit we had amazing views that reminded me of the north cascades, only better!! Girabaldi was great to see. We got to glissade all the way back to the flat glacier below and made the nice hike out. No bugs!
ClimberMan420 - Dec 13, 2007 10:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2004
inexperience
First time strapping inot crampons and was with friend who had only used them twice. WE climbed ice fall from Joffre Lake and took intersting route up to summit. So glad I didnt die that day thinking about what we knew and where we were.
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: March? 1998
Same day access from Cerise Creek and Joffre's Aussie couloir (see Joffre) with Perry, Pierre and Ade. Spetch and Hartzell the next day.
Great ski access after the brush crash. I recommend Keiths hut (at least 4 -5 years ago), but not if you're lookin for a real work out. Fanstastic views and worth camping at the col -wrth luggin the gear up.
I recall it was an NiÑo year- 69 ski days- I love BC!
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: May 1996
A wonderful climb. I hauled a snowboard up to the top of Anniversary Glacier and made short work of the trip back down to the cabin! My partner was on snowshoes so there was a little waiting involved...
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge via Cerise Creek Date Climbed: July 7, 2002
Our Matier trip could not have been better!!!
Well if it weren't for the gnarly, mosquito infested, rock riddled, muddy, overgrown crap-ass trail that we had to lug our full packs through to get on and off the mountain, it could not have been better. (Seriously, I had welts from those suckers. They were like birds!) At least there was a bit of hardship to endure to make us earn the joy of the rest of the trip. The rest was SWEET!
We arrived at our campsite well past Keith's Hut in the early afternoon on Saturday. We had a splendid view of the Anniversary Glacier with Matier behind it on the left, and Joffre Peak on the right. The sun was shining, the tents were up, and there was no one else on the mountain. Wooooo Hooooo! I was in my happy place.
Got in a great afternoon warm up hike up the Joffre side while the sun was out. Had a fabulous dinner, then staged the first annual Redneck Mountaineer Olympic Games featuring: Avalanche Probe Javelin; Ice Axe Toss; and the Dual Slalom Glissade, terminating in self-arrest. It's amazing what games (rules, scoring and everything) you can invent when you have time on your hands!
After actually sleeping (we were able to sleep in yay!!!), we did not head up the mountain until around 6:00 a.m. or so.
The weather had become slightly overcast which was great for us, as the sun made it really hot. The downside is that white skies don't make for very good pictures (and we wanted to work on our racoon tans). The bit we hiked the day before seemed way easier, and we continued on till we reached the glacier and roped up. It went by so fast! Once at the base of the final approach to the summit, we un-roped and began to slug up the steep slope to the top. The snow was great for kicking steps, & Pat & Dean led the way. It was smooth sailing. At the top, there is a narrow ridge that you have to cross at 9100 feet with sharp drops on either side to make it to the summit. It was very cool!
The summit was awesome! I seem to get a little emotional when I reach the summit. I was in my really, really happy place, which brought a tear to my eye. From the top, we could see clouds rolling in, and knew it was time to get down. The decent down the steep face was a bit of a bitch (slow and steady, not hard), but once we were able to bum slide, wooooooo hooooooo!!!!! Between running in the snow and sliding, we were back at the tents in no time flat. Couldn't get over how quick it was to get up and down the mountain!
Had lunch, packed up, and hit the gnarly crap-ass trail.
Matt Lemke - Jun 4, 2016 11:10 pm Date Climbed: May 12, 2016
Straight up the north faceThis was my first peak in Canada and it sure was a good one. We hiked up the mostly melted out Joffre Lakes Trail and made a day trip out of it. We went up the snow slopes above the upper lake and onto the flat glacier above. It was a long hot walk to the steeper slopes leading up the north face, which had some great snow for kick stepping. At the summit we had amazing views that reminded me of the north cascades, only better!! Girabaldi was great to see. We got to glissade all the way back to the flat glacier below and made the nice hike out. No bugs!
ClimberMan420 - Dec 13, 2007 10:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2004
inexperienceFirst time strapping inot crampons and was with friend who had only used them twice. WE climbed ice fall from Joffre Lake and took intersting route up to summit. So glad I didnt die that day thinking about what we knew and where we were.
klwagar - Jul 6, 2007 4:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 1973
My first peakThis was my first peak - I did a mountaineer's course for high school graduation. The camp cut the now very popular trail into Joffre lakes.
Alpine72 - Jan 11, 2006 12:44 am
Route Climbed: Via Joffre lake solo Date Climbed: July 2004Awesome mountain.
vancouver islander - Dec 19, 2005 2:19 pm
Route Climbed: NE Ridge Date Climbed: July 1995From Cerise Creek and a spectacular camp on the Matier/Joffre col. Found a 3rd Class rock ridge for the ascent and came down steep snow. Great trip.
Vinny - May 22, 2003 6:47 pm
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: March? 1998Same day access from Cerise Creek and Joffre's Aussie couloir (see Joffre) with Perry, Pierre and Ade. Spetch and Hartzell the next day.
Great ski access after the brush crash. I recommend Keiths hut (at least 4 -5 years ago), but not if you're lookin for a real work out. Fanstastic views and worth camping at the col -wrth luggin the gear up.
I recall it was an NiÑo year- 69 ski days- I love BC!
JasonCamp - Nov 27, 2002 2:59 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge Date Climbed: May 1996A wonderful climb. I hauled a snowboard up to the top of Anniversary Glacier and made short work of the trip back down to the cabin! My partner was on snowshoes so there was a little waiting involved...
A good route with very nice views.
Peak Freak - Sep 18, 2002 1:27 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Ridge via Cerise Creek Date Climbed: July 7, 2002Our Matier trip could not have been better!!!
Well if it weren't for the gnarly, mosquito infested, rock riddled, muddy, overgrown crap-ass trail that we had to lug our full packs through to get on and off the mountain, it could not have been better. (Seriously, I had welts from those suckers. They were like birds!) At least there was a bit of hardship to endure to make us earn the joy of the rest of the trip. The rest was SWEET!
We arrived at our campsite well past Keith's Hut in the early afternoon on Saturday. We had a splendid view of the Anniversary Glacier with Matier behind it on the left, and Joffre Peak on the right. The sun was shining, the tents were up, and there was no one else on the mountain. Wooooo Hooooo! I was in my happy place.
Got in a great afternoon warm up hike up the Joffre side while the sun was out. Had a fabulous dinner, then staged the first annual Redneck Mountaineer Olympic Games featuring: Avalanche Probe Javelin; Ice Axe Toss; and the Dual Slalom Glissade, terminating in self-arrest. It's amazing what games (rules, scoring and everything) you can invent when you have time on your hands!
After actually sleeping (we were able to sleep in yay!!!), we did not head up the mountain until around 6:00 a.m. or so.
The weather had become slightly overcast which was great for us, as the sun made it really hot. The downside is that white skies don't make for very good pictures (and we wanted to work on our racoon tans). The bit we hiked the day before seemed way easier, and we continued on till we reached the glacier and roped up. It went by so fast! Once at the base of the final approach to the summit, we un-roped and began to slug up the steep slope to the top. The snow was great for kicking steps, & Pat & Dean led the way. It was smooth sailing. At the top, there is a narrow ridge that you have to cross at 9100 feet with sharp drops on either side to make it to the summit. It was very cool!
The summit was awesome! I seem to get a little emotional when I reach the summit. I was in my really, really happy place, which brought a tear to my eye. From the top, we could see clouds rolling in, and knew it was time to get down. The decent down the steep face was a bit of a bitch (slow and steady, not hard), but once we were able to bum slide, wooooooo hooooooo!!!!! Between running in the snow and sliding, we were back at the tents in no time flat. Couldn't get over how quick it was to get up and down the mountain!
Had lunch, packed up, and hit the gnarly crap-ass trail.