Denali Climber's Log
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|96avs01||THC climbs the W. Butt |
Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2006
|After fourteen days of ascending the West Buttress our expedition, Three High Climbers, reached the summit at 10:18 PM. We were the only group of the day to have somewhat clear skies, for at least a few thousand feet, while on the summit. I would estimate that around 50 people summitted on the 14th. We did not have to wait at 14K for good weather as long as many of the groups did. Thanks to Pavel and Kris for hooking us up with some extra fuel at 14K before they descended!|
|Posted Jun 28, 2006 7:27 am|
|atavist||11 days at high camp |
Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2006
After spending 9 hard nights enduring a hard Denali storm at 17000'. The weather broke giving us a zero-visibility light-wind day which was good enough to summit. After one more night at 17, we began the descent which was mostly uneventful. Of course there were awesome views when the clouds parted briefly and of course there was immense discomfort while carrying 60lbs down the fixed lines. We gave away 7 days worth of food at 14 camp then flew off the mountain a few days later.
|Posted Jun 28, 2006 6:32 am|
|Zzyzx||West Buttress |
Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2006
|Having only one day of good weather in the forecast, instead of moving the camp to 17K I decided to go solo from 14K to the summit. I started late, at 2 PM, and summited at 12:45 AM, then got back to the camp at 5 AM - 15 hours round-trip. It was suppose to be the acclimatization climb before doing West Rib, but due to many days of bad weatherit was the only climb I did.|
It's a great mountain and I hope to return there some day.
|Posted Jun 16, 2006 3:53 am|
|rdesota||West Buttress |
Date Climbed: May 29, 2006
|Third try in seven years. Climbed with my brother Tony from 14k camp to summit and back in one day - very exhuasting. Beautiful views and weather until the summit - a total whiteout. Priceless life lessons learned on this mountain. Had the privelidge of climbing with two fantastic members and climbers family and friends - thanks Tony and John.|
|Posted Jun 5, 2006 5:32 am|
|Mjollnir||Upper Rib |
Date Climbed: May 22, 2006
|Awesome climb - with Tauru Chaw, Taylor Woodward, and Dave. Happy to have made the summit on my first Alaska Range trip. Place is f*ucking AWESOME.|
|Posted May 27, 2006 6:27 am|
|CBakwin||West Butt. May, '06|
|Spent 12 days but did not make the summit. Quite a slog!|
|Posted May 23, 2006 10:04 pm|
|tetontom||Most beautiful place on Earth...|
|Guiding on this incredible mountain has tought me the most valuable lesson I've ever learned; humility...|
Summits in 2003 and '04. Looking forward to more good times on Denali, as soon as Himalayan trips give me a break.
|Posted Apr 19, 2006 2:45 am|
|Hamilton||Route Climbed: West Rib |
Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2004
|Spent 12 days on the route. Nearly got wiped out by a massive ice avalanche in the NE Fork of the Kahiltna (our tent was flattened by the wind blast). We summitted in perfect weather with absolutely no wind on the summit!|
|Posted Mar 25, 2006 7:58 am|
|Brad Marshall||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 23, 2005 |
Date Climbed: May 23, 2005
|Climbed the West Buttress route with two friends and summitted on our second attempt. We enjoyed terrific weather almost the whole time on the mountain. Feet killed after coming all the way out from 17,000 in two days. Unfortunately two climbers, twin brothers, fell to their death on Denali Pass a week before we climbed it.|
|Posted Mar 16, 2006 8:17 pm|
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2005
|Great climg, with Jagged Globe abd Alaskan Guides, beautiful summit day, but we had to wait for it! Alistair Sutcliffe.|
|Posted Feb 23, 2006 3:38 pm|
|Mountain Jim||Route Climbed: West Rib Date Climbed: May 23,1981|
|20 days round trip from the landing site below Mount Hunter. After our summit day, we descended from our high camp just below the "Rock Step" on the West Rib,at 16,200 ft., down to the West Buttress Route at "Windy Corner", and followed the West Buttress route back to the landing site.|
|Posted Jan 29, 2006 9:52 pm|
|Jason Halladay||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 29 May 2003|
|Four out of five our expedition reached the summit of this majestic peak. Our climb to the summit took 12 days with three days to descend and get back to Talkeetna. A great expedition with wonderful climbing partners.|
|Posted Jan 17, 2006 12:16 am|
|SawtoothSean||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 9, 2000 |
Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2000
|Part of the Denali For Dreams Make-A-Wish Fund Raiser- Idaho. Raised $325,000 for Make-A-Wish Foundation.|
|Posted Jan 4, 2006 10:15 pm|
|climberben||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 30 May 2001|
|A couple of weeks and we made the summit in beautiful calm weather and -20 degrees F.|
|Posted Dec 26, 2005 5:08 am|
|snocat||Route Climbed: west buttress Date Climbed: June 1, 2005|
|climbed above the clouds and the weather to a beautiful sunny afternoon summit on the last day before having to head back down.|
|Posted Dec 15, 2005 10:46 pm|
|mtnman455||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 1, 2005 |
Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2005
|Summit with Andrew Councell. We were the first to reach the summit for three days. Everything was freshly corniced and beautiful. Breaking trail was hard but it was nice to be out of the trough. The start of the day was crappy but everything cleared up and it was pretty warm and clear on the summit.|
Took one day to get down from 17,000 to the base. I don't recommend this.
Way too many people climbing this mountain for my taste. I don't know if I will ever come back but if I do I will stay far away from the West Butt. See my TR here.
|Posted Oct 28, 2005 5:24 pm|
|edl||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 2003|
|Summited on day 19. We were one of the last teams to summit that year.|
|Posted Sep 23, 2005 4:32 pm|
|dpingree||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 24, 2005|
|Reached the summit on day 13 via West Buttress. Weather was surprisingly good high on the mountain. The views were spectacular all along the route. |
The biggest pain was the fixed lines and getting behind people crawling on their knees!
Overall, one of the most beautiful mountains I've ever seen. Highly recommended.
|Posted Sep 9, 2005 4:52 pm|
|bruno baschung||Route Climbed: west buttress Date Climbed: 22 May 1992|
|Summit reached in perfect weather conditions with a French expedition.|
Having climbed all around the world, I can only say it was the most fantastic expedition I took part.
Admiring Amercia from the top is just a moment to be lived.
True, it's a bit overcrowded, but it's really another planet! We were lucky having 7 days in a row of fine weather after terrible storms causing 10 fatalities during that season. (But I strongly recommend being roped all the way, and i mean ALL the way, wether walking OR skiing! Mind about the crevasses even if you think there's no obvious danger).
I love Alaska!
|Posted Aug 18, 2005 8:12 am|
|rconstan||Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 15, 2005|
|After spending 5 days at 17K in foul weather, we were out of food and we had decided that tomorrow was either up or down, we had no other choice. We woke early to beautiful clear skies with calm winds and headed for the summit. We celebrated our success for about 10 minutes, taking the obligatory photos and then headed back to camp as big black clouds began to move in from the north/northwest. On our descent we heard thunder and made it back to camp just prior to the ensuing whiteout.|
|Posted Aug 10, 2005 6:51 pm|