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John ChristieRoute Climbed: Wonder Lake - North Side via Mckinley/Harper Glaciers Date Climbed: July 30, 1973  Sucess!
Look forward to hearing of others who have done the North route. Ours retraced Stuck's original, almost 60 years to the day, so we called it the Diamond Jubilee Expedition. 4 of us. 39 days to summit - 2 storms - lots of thrills...and many memories. Team mate Dave Carroll went back and was lost along with 3 others on South route in about 1981.

Is there a list of ascents by year/route?
Posted Mar 28, 2005 6:43 pm

GWRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 2002  Sucess!


Summitted on beautiful day. Used Alpine Ascents Intl. guide service. Not fun but definitely challenging and adventurous. Made a great movie about our ascent.


Posted Dec 20, 2004 7:30 pm

Brice NeugebauerRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 28 June 2004  Sucess!

Brice Neugebauer

Last of my fifty state high points. Excellent trip....thoughts of returning to try Foraker.
Posted Dec 14, 2004 4:38 am

jwuiteRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 22 1999  Sucess!


We had a perfect 12 hr weather window for our summit attempt.
Posted Oct 15, 2004 12:32 pm

GilbertRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 14 june 2004  Sucess!


Together with my friend Jan we reached the summit on 14 june 04. There where very strong winds on the summit and the summit ridge. Several times the wind knocked us down and we had to lay down on the ridge. We only stayed 1 minute on the summit because of the winds. We where the only two that summited that day.

Beautiful mountain!
Posted Jul 28, 2004 5:56 am

RussellRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 5,2004  Sucess!


15 days up 2 down A great trip with 5 climbers from across the USA.Good weather conditions and good company every day on the mountain.Smoke from forest fires at 14,000 camp only dark spot of whole trip.
Posted Jul 24, 2004 4:11 pm

Samuli MansikkaRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 26th 2004  Sucess!

Samuli Mansikka

First summit attempt had to be cancelled 90m below the summit due to extremely strong winds on the summit ridge. Summitted in perfect weather after a couple of days of resting ang waiting for the right moment to sneak on the top.

Night temperatures in high camp were around -20 C and due to an unusually warm june the lower Kahiltna Glacier was badly crevassed when we descended.

Hint: Prepare to assemble some sort of brake system to your sled for the descent so that it does not slide on your heels. Remember to rig it reasonably so that you will not hurt yourself badly in case of a severe crevasse fall!
Posted Jul 6, 2004 3:49 pm

bobpickeringRoute Climbed: West Rib Date Climbed: June 19, 1995  Sucess!


Please see my trip report.
Posted Jun 7, 2004 10:37 pm

kovarpaRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 26, 2004  Sucess!


I had great time. Best part - 16 Ridge. Made it to the summit in 12 days, 2 days down, with all fingers and toes intact. We were pretty lucky with weather, bad weather days were our rest days anyway. I will post a trip report soon.
Posted Jun 4, 2004 12:25 am

meepersRoute Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: May 2003  Sucess!


Great mountain

We had bad weather and worse luck, but lived to climb another day, and will return
Posted Dec 19, 2003 3:40 pm

grynningRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 3 june - 21 july 2003  Sucess!


We summited on the 19th of july in breathtaking good weather after being tent bound in Genet Basin for over a week in a rare and powerful summer storm. Me and two of my friends skied down from the summit in the most beautiful sunset I have ever experienced. Success for our norwegian/swedish expedition !
Posted Oct 3, 2003 6:37 pm

mickymac1Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 6/01


Team summitted in 12 days!
Posted Oct 1, 2003 1:35 pm

7summitsRoute Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: 22 june 2003  Sucess!


the 2nd time up this beautiful mountain, this time in 11 days from Talkeetna.

See pics on the denali pages on 7summits.com
Posted Sep 6, 2003 9:37 am

dabenderRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 12, 2003  Sucess!


Frequent storms in early June concentrated traffic into some tight weather windows. Over 100 climbers attempted the fixed ropes in deteriorating conditions on Sunday, June 8. The parties that made it to 17,200 hunkered down until Thursday June 12 which was beautiful - warm(ish), low wind, spectacular visibility. Very good success rate on that day. We left 17,200 at 1 PM Friday and went all the way through to 7,200 base camp at 5:00 AM Saturday.
Posted Jun 16, 2003 10:04 pm

Pencil PusherRoute Climbed: Up the Butt Date Climbed: June 28, 2002  Sucess!

Pencil Pusher

The trip of a lifetime. Ginger was the resident-mountain-hottie.
Posted Mar 3, 2003 2:21 pm

GernotRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 10th June 2002  Sucess!
This was a real experience. First attempt at June 7th, did not work out because of real strong storm at high altitudes. We went back to Medical Camp.

At June 10th I made it, strong storm again, white out and real low temperature at the summit, my new lithium batteries where only able to take 2 pictures.
Posted Jan 13, 2003 4:34 am

richardpattisonRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: Friday 29th June 2001  Sucess!


Via the West Buttress route. We were so fortunate to climb in June with great weather throughout, the 16 days were absolutely fantastic, a real experience of a lifetime. The scenery was totally amazing, far far better than you can ever imagine it could be.

Even though this is the easiest route on the mountain, it's very important to train hard and be in super shape for the climb. The sled hauling early on can be dreadful, an exhausting week pulling your sled around the glacier. A good training technique for this is to drag a tyre around at home. Once you get to 14200 ft, the route is magnificent and the ridge leading to 17k is breath taking. The earlier you get to 17k, the more days you'll have to wait for a summit opportunity. Good luck...
Posted Nov 21, 2002 6:50 am

asmrzRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 1983  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 11, 1983


It took the six of us from Southern California 11 days to climb the big one in May 1983. We had superb conditions with 9 out of 11 days clear, with temperatures down to -37 F. Took 11 days RT from Kahiltna Glacier to the top and back and four days of traveling from/to Los Angeles.
There were 25 people on the mountain, but we were the only US party.
Posted Nov 15, 2002 9:34 pm

Ascending PathRoute Climbed: The W. Butt Date Climbed: '97,'98, '00,'01,'02  Sucess!

Ascending Path

What an amazing mountain!

We have guided this peak 8 times.

Please visit our website for more info:


Posted Oct 31, 2002 2:05 pm

Alan ArnetteRoute Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!

Alan Arnette

This mountain should not be underestimated, especially if it is your first big climb. The wildcard will be the weather if you are physically prepared. We were turned back at Denali Pass by 100 mph winds adn closing weather. I have many pictures on my web site at www.alanarnette.com
Posted Aug 1, 2001 9:49 am

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