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Mount Merritt & Old Sun Glacier

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Mount Merritt & Old Sun Glacier
Viewed from the trail just north of Ptarmigan Tunnel. Of the three distinct summits, the one of the far right is the highest.

September 11, 2009


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RoryKuykendallSuch a sick shot


Voted 10/10

So I'm a little confused about this mountain. On the standard route from the other side, do end up ascending to the summit from this side, or do you come up totally from the other side?

What I'm trying to figure out is would it be possible for a person not carrying an ice axe and crampons to climb Merritt from this side by going around the glacier to the right.

From this photo, it looks like you could MAYBE get around the glacier late in season. But if so, could I connect with the standard route?
Posted Jan 28, 2014 9:23 pm

distressbarkRe: Such a sick shot


Hasn't voted

Rory, on the standard route from the west, you do indeed end up ascending on this side. You pop out above Old Sun Glacier on the low point between Merritt, Natoas and Cossley (or Crossley) Ridge, just above and to the right of the Glacier in this photo. There is definitely an ascent route of the east face visible in this picture; I believe there is a route page and at least one trip report that I've come across. They both detail having to climb the glacier, however, and it's supposedly VERY steep. But you're right, MAYBE late in the season you'd be able to skirt Old Sun and gain the Natoas-Merritt saddle, and thereon to the standard route.
Posted Feb 2, 2014 5:00 pm

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Image Data
distressbarkSubmitted by distressbark
on Oct 19, 2009 11:13 pm

Image ID: 565446
Hits: 1400 
Lat/Lon: 48.85373°N / 113.70232°W
Object Title: Mount Merritt & Old Sun Glacier