Beautiful mountain. I kayaked across Leigh Lake and scrambled up the wash below the hanging glacier below the CMC. Definitely the most scenic campsite I've ever had. It's too bad my climbing partners' incessant tobacco and marijuana smoking made me too sick to continue the next day. I'll definitely have to head back to finish this great climb!
Route Climbed: Direct South Buttress, V+, 5.8, A1 all the way to the top, Date Climbed: August 11-12 , 1987
Bill Krause and I climbed this mega-classic and historic route in 1987. Bill told me about this being one of the longest mountaineering routes in the lower US, if you go all the way to the summit of Mt. Moran. I recall thinking how well the route was put together, because on both sides of it, is much more difficult rock. The line weaves its way among very steep, technical terrain. We thought at the time, that this was truly Classic Teton Alpine climb. We found the rating about IV+, 5.8, A1, there was no difficult aid on it. We used BD Stoppers to aid the hard (5.12) section. Once past the top of the buttress, the climbing is never harder than 5.7, but many roped pitches and a lot of scrambling is required to reach the summit. If you go all the way to the summit (recommended and Grade V+) take a three day permit, especially if you are not very familiar with Tetons backcountry. Superb, quality route in great alpine setting.