Mount Olympus Climber's Log

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JRB

JRB - Aug 2, 2013 10:05 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2012

2nd time on the Blue  Sucess!

Came back from our first trip to the Blue in 2009 this time to get the summit. Perfect day.

AlexeyD

AlexeyD - Aug 2, 2013 1:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2013

Amazing!  Sucess!

Beautiful summit day with undercast and views from Mt. Hood to Mt. Baker. Went up Crystal Pass and then took the North Ridge (5.4) variation to gain the summit. Route to Crystal Pass was still in fine shape, but goes between 2 large crevasses along a steep slope; a fall here would put the entire rope team into the lower crevasse, so be careful! Getting onto the North Ridge requires going around a moat that may have gotten bigger since we were there. There are currently a couple of (questionable) intermediate rap anchors en route, in case you brought less than a 60-m rope. Otherwise, with a 60 you can get all the way down to the snow from the big slung boulder near the summit. Not sure how much longer the route has this season due to the unusually large schrunds near CP, so glad to have gotten it when we did!

joshdreher

joshdreher - Jul 24, 2013 3:05 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2013

In a Day  Sucess!

I climbed Olympus round trip in 16 hrs 3 minutes. See my trip report http://www.summitpost.org/mount-olympus-in-a-day/857932

drdown

drdown - Nov 23, 2012 1:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2012

Crystal Pass  Sucess!

Climbed Olympus for a charity group called Bay Area Wilderness Training. My favorite climb to date, perfect weather and unbeatable conditions. A truly profound experience. Will be back up there soon hopefully!

olygtx06 - Sep 22, 2012 12:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2012

summit  Sucess!

1x via Blue Glacier in three days. Probably my favorite climb.

tcingrum

tcingrum - Sep 19, 2012 8:40 pm

Long haul  Sucess!

Good way to test your boots. If you can hit the weather right it's an awesome experience

kevinsa

kevinsa - Sep 15, 2012 6:34 pm Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2011

Mount Olympus  Sucess!

Awesome trip. Everyone should do this one at least once.

pookster1127

pookster1127 - Jul 29, 2012 11:21 pm Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2012

Perfect Conditions 2012  Sucess!

Crystal Pass with two other teams. See our trip report

patdarcy

patdarcy - Feb 21, 2012 8:18 pm Date Climbed: Oct 29, 2011

Valhallas to Olympus

Great hike/easy climb up the Valhallas. Would have loved to get up on Olympus but a rain/sleet storm caused me to bail (and my dog was getting grouchy and stubborn by that point). Otherwise, great time and highly recommended!

Daria

Daria - Oct 22, 2011 10:32 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011

22 hour dayhike  Sucess!

Beautiful area and great climb, 22 hour dayhike

MBFN

MBFN - Sep 5, 2011 10:21 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2010

MBFN  Sucess!

This was my 3rd time up. We took 4 days each time. Awesome mountain.

skjos - Aug 31, 2011 2:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2011

Crystal Pass  Sucess!

Trip itenerary:
Day 1 - Lewis Meadows
Day 2 - Panic Peak
Day 3 - Summit and back to Lewis Meadows
Day 4 - Out

This schedule worked great, except Day 3 was long and the last 3 miles resulted in some limping. The east face summit block can be handled with no rock pro, just some slings and a rope for the 20' rappel past the high 4th class move.

Norman

Norman - Aug 21, 2011 6:52 pm Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006

Long Trip  Sucess!

Resigning Log, 2nd time for me...about 35 years ago with Seattle Mountaineers, now with son and friend. Ideal weather, no crowds, very enjoyable trip.

iquest4it

iquest4it - Aug 18, 2011 1:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2011

Blind climber summits  Sucess!

I guided my blind friend Toby to the summit via the Ho River/Blue Glacier Route with a new climbing partner, Bryan. We never saw the east side summit scramble and ended up climbing the west ridge, which was mostly 5.4 with one or two 5.7 moves in just 2 pitches. All but three of the 30+ climbers we talked to coming down backed down from this summit block, so we had a real feeling of accomplishment. Best of all, they forecast showers, but we were above the clouds for 3 days and felt like we were flying between them on the summit. I've climbed higher and harder, but this was the most rewarding climb of my life.

Snidely Whiplash

Snidely Whiplash - Aug 8, 2011 9:26 pm Date Climbed: Sep 2, 1984

Beautiful beyond words  Sucess!

I've climbed a lot of mountains. This is probably the most beautiful mountain I've ever seen. The view from the top of the Blue Glacier Moraine is out of this world.

Dundeel

Dundeel - Aug 4, 2011 7:06 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2009

Great Climb  Sucess!

Climbed this one with Dave C., Don N., Richard C., and Adam H.. Beautiful weather with late season conditions on the Blue. Went via Crystal Pass, north side snow ramp, the sidewalk, and SE corner climb. One member sprained ankle on the way back to base camp, leading to a long painfull walk out.

The Elves - Aug 3, 2011 11:12 am Date Climbed: May 5, 2004

Haliku  Sucess!

The original log for this mountain was accidentally deleted. SP member Haliku, who died in a climbing accident in 2010, had signed the log. Here is his entry:

"Route Climbed: Blue Glacier Date Climbed: May 5, 2004

We had the mountain to ourselves. Conditions were perfect with occasional times in the clouds once we were on the snow dome. We used the early season route options whenever possible. The crux of the climb was the west peak as it was covered in snow and ice. A short ice climb on the north side allowed me to put a belay in for my partners, Axe and Old Guide, to climb up and join me on the top.

It was a long day due to the early season conditions. We took 14.5 hours round trip from Glacier Meadows. Click here for the trip report."

Here is the trip report mentioned: http://www.summitpost.org/an-excessively-wet-adventure-mt-olympus-wa/169522.

Here is a screen shot of the original entry: http://www.summitpost.org/haliku-s-olympus-log-entry/734832.

gimpilator

gimpilator - Aug 1, 2011 7:34 pm Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2011

4th Of July Route On The 5th Of July  Sucess!

Yes, the approach is long but it's well worth it. This was my first rock climb. See the the trip report and video.

Redwic

Redwic - Aug 1, 2011 11:49 am Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2011

One Of The Best!!!  Sucess!

The most dangerous part of the Blue Glacier was the lateral moraine that needed to be descended. The moraine had a lot of loose rocks and dirt; rockfall was constantly a concern. Due to the near-record snow year, the glacial crevasses were still only minor cracks. The Snow Dome also had a couple of minor cracks; nothing major. From the Snow Dome we were able to ascend the "Fourth of July" route; we later got the impression that we might have used that route later than anyone else has, due to the high snowpack lasting into early July.

My 36th Washington CoHP and my 37th Washington CoGPP.

YEM

YEM - Aug 1, 2011 3:37 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2011

The Blue Glacier  Sucess!

I climbed Olympus with a great group of Mazamas: Dan, Caleb, Rich and Dyanne. The glacier was in excellent condition because of massive snows over the winter and our route through Crystal Pass never got very steep. Luckily, our weather held out for 4 days in one of the rainiest locations in the lower 48. We ran into Bud, who has been climbing the mountain for over 30 years. He remembers when the Blue Glacier came all the way up the moraine! Global warming aside, this mountain is near the top of the list of all my climbing experiences. The massif and location have something extra that I haven't found anywhere else.

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