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n8jojohnsonRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: August 20, 2004  Sucess!

n8jojohnson

Spectacular sunrise started as we hit the cleaver. Could see the Puget Sound from Columbia Crest. A team member brought a frisbee, and we played a little Ultimate in the crater basin.
Posted Aug 24, 2004 1:44 pm

jcolarRoute Climbed: Disappointment cleaver Date Climbed: Aug. 16, 2004  Sucess!
Great trek to Muir. Alpine start was on the warm side. Breaks were chilly. Cloudy at the summit. Great views on the way down.
Posted Aug 23, 2004 9:47 am

AGPDclimberRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: 14 August 2004  Sucess!
Cimb to Camp Muir was rather fatiguing because of the high temperature. Water was essential. Started the DC route summit attempt at 12:30 am. Light layer with insulated trekking pants. Breaks were very cold. Even had a fox visit us at about the third break. View from the top was spectacular. Anyone making the summit should take advantage of shedding packs at the summit bowl and hiking to the apex of the mountain. RMI guides were outstanding!! Good luck to all who dare to climb!
Posted Aug 22, 2004 10:00 pm

mountainjunkieRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 29, 2004  Sucess!

mountainjunkie

The climb took 2 days, starting on 6/28 and summitting on 6/29. We had great weather with little wind and lots of sunshine. This was my first time on Rainier, but I hope to definitely be back for another route.
Posted Aug 20, 2004 7:30 pm

dkantolaRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: August 15-16, 2004  Sucess!

dkantola

Kept it light with a 35 lb pack for the hike up to Camp Muir. We watched from Muir as thunderstorms set off forest fires to the east on the first day. The guides really maintain this route well throughout the season. A cloud cap above 13.5k ft and very hazy skies below limited views. I think the difficulty of attaining this summit is overrated. Taking two days felt almost leisurely.
Posted Aug 19, 2004 12:50 am

sixsigmafoolRoute Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July 26-30, 2004  Sucess!
Yeah, I know...the easiest route AND in 4 days. But I had two guests, and neither one was seasoned in glacier travel or 9000' altitude gain. Route was great, weather was great, views were so-so. The smoke from forest fires in Lake Chelan and BC blocked views to the North and West. Adams, Hood, and St. Helens were clearly visible to the South and East. Two hours on the summit made the guests ecstatic. At least that what I told them they'd feel after getting home and recuperating!
Posted Aug 16, 2004 3:44 pm

forkliftdaddyRoute Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: July 17-20, 2004  Sucess!
Started low (hiking past Comet Falls, not from Paradise) and took our time. Two day approach to high camp (at the Turtle) had good weather. First summit attempt (morning of the 19th) was stymied by weather, however. Second push had perfect weather and great conditions. Chute was good snow and great ice. Routefinding was a bit difficult in the dark. The sunrise was spectacular, and the summit was a cold, windy desert in one crater and a party of ants (or a train of ant-sized parties) in the other.
Posted Aug 16, 2004 2:06 pm

Johnhl94563Route Climbed: D.C Date Climbed: July 11, 2004  Sucess!

Johnhl94563

Beautiful day on the mountain. After dealing with fog, clouds, rain, snow, and winds at Camp Muir, we started up the mountain and got stuck behind a slow party of 12 that caused us to stop right under the icefall on Ingrahms glacier. The rest of the summit day ended up being a great day on the mountain. Had some natural rockfall near the bottom of Disapointment Cleave that just nicked a team of 2 behind us.



Great views, and good crisp weather. Private trip of 4 with 2 of us attempting the summit. My first big mountain trip that I organized and led.
Posted Aug 7, 2004 3:49 pm

paclimberRoute Climbed: D.C. Date Climbed: July 19-21, 2004  Sucess!

paclimber

Successful summit on first attempt with private group. Lucked out on weather -- clear skies and record high temps in the pacific northwest. Took our time with the climb, spending two nights on the mountain -- first night at Muir, second at Ingraham Flats. Great views of Adams, St. Helens and Hood along the way and at the summit.
Posted Aug 4, 2004 11:40 am

georgbetsyRoute Climbed: Emmons Date Climbed: June 21-24 2004  Sucess!

georgbetsy

We had a 2 day Glacier travel course with Cascade Mountain Guides (Ryan and Jeff), were we learned self arrest, roped travel, crevasse rescue, .... and camped on the Wintrop glacier. At noon on the second day we split from the group at St. Elmos Pass and started our way up the Inter Glacier to camp Shurman where we spent the next two nights. We had a rest day on the 3rd day and went for the summit on day 4. We reached the summit at about 8 in the morning, but clouds covered the whole upper mountain so we were not 100% sure weather or not we had reached the summit. By 8:30 the clouds moved away and we confirmed our location, Columbia Crest. We spend a few minutes taking pictures and then we decented all the way to the white river camp ground. -- The glissade down the Interglacier was fantastic.
Posted Jul 30, 2004 7:36 pm

esugiRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 24, 2004  Sucess!

esugi

Camped at Ingrahm Flats and left for the summit at 1:30 am. Reached the summit in 4hr 30 min. Nearly got killed on the descent through the DC as a party above dislodged a head size rock that barely missed us. That team was good 100 vertical feet above us so you can imagine the kind of momentum this rock gained as it tumbled towards us!! We barely jumped out of the way. As a matter of fact, Courtney (cp0915) jumped to the left, I jumped to the right and the rock went right between us.



Great climb othewise. Fourth summit of the mountain.
Posted Jul 26, 2004 11:02 pm

cp0915Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July 24, 2004  Sucess!

cp0915

Great climb. Way easier than I'd anticipated.
Posted Jul 26, 2004 10:35 am

agorokhovRoute Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July, 5 2004  Sucess!
Great climb. Great partners.Great weather.
Posted Jul 24, 2004 6:09 pm

StephaneFitchRoute Climbed: Tahoma Glacier Date Climbed: June 29, 2004  Sucess!

StephaneFitch

My colleagues, Scott Patterson and Mark Fowlkes, and I, Stephane Fitch, reached the summit of Rainier at 9 a.m. on June 23. We climbed via the Tahoma Glacier route. The weather was cool and quite windy. It was my most strenuous and also most satisfying climb yet.
Posted Jul 21, 2004 5:36 pm

shanrickvRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 12, 2004  Sucess!

shanrickv

Awesome climb! I did it through RMI with a group of 9 guys that my good friend Alan put together over the past year. We nailed it for weather. Climbing school was cloudy, so we kept cool. Then for the climb to Camp Muir we had sun and blue skies. The alpine start at 1:30 a.m. was under a clear star filled sky. Sunrise at the top of the Cleaver was cold, but beautiful. We set the standing season record for an RMI group doing the D. Cleaver route in 5 hours and 20 minutes.
Posted Jul 14, 2004 9:55 pm

Dow WilliamsRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver, Alpine II Date Climbed: September, 1997  Sucess!

Dow Williams

Party of 4 made up this ascent, 2 from Nevada, including myself, 1 from Georgia and 1 from Alaska. From the Paradise upper parking lot take the Skyline Trail to Pan Point, continue to Pebble Creek and follow the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir at 10,100 ft. At Camp Muir, there is a ranger station, guide hut, client hut and toilet facilities. We took a rest day here and enjoyed the camaraderie, even had a gourmet meal. We chose to camp outside at Muir and did not even set up our tents. The moon and stars were great. The views from Muir out at Mount Saint Helens and Adams were spectacular. At about 1:30AM, we took off from Camp Muir, crossed the Cowlitz Glacier to Cathedral Gap and continued along the scree ridge to the Ingraham Glacier and Ingraham Flats at 11,100 ft. Another climbing camp exists here, but I do not see the need if you are in any shape at all. The sunrise soon followed and was postcard perfect.



Gain the cleaver on a ledge system of crumbling rock 300 ft above Ingraham Flats. Watch out for ice-fall from the Ingraham while accessing the lower cleaver. While on the cleaver, be conscientious of other parties that are moving more rapidly or slowly. This is an extremely dangerous area with a high potential for rock-fall. One good size rock took a piece off of my helmet and if it would have been a direct hit, I would not be writing this with normal concentration. We ascended the rocky/snowy cleaver to 12,300 ft. From here, only 2 of us continued on. Matt and I climbed the Ingraham Glacier to the summit, negotiating crevasses and unstable snow bridges. You will reach the crater rim at 14,150 ft. It's about a 30 to 45 minute round trip walk to the true summit (14,411 ft) and climber register. Great day even made a cellular phone call home from the crater.



We descended all the way out to the parking lot and spent a night at the Paradise Hotel.
Posted Jul 12, 2004 4:39 pm

mdostbyRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 5th, 2004  Sucess!

mdostby

We could'nt have asked for better weather. Our summit day was nearly perfect. Myself and six other team members climbed to the true summit of this awesome mountain. What a great time with great friends!
Posted Jul 9, 2004 1:31 am

davecookRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 25,2004  Sucess!
Dave & Jared Cook , Kevin Clawson (Rochester, NY); Ryan, John, Justin, Colin Holbrook (Spokan, WA); summit at 6:30 am, back at Paridise by 1:30. Great trip. Gumby legs on the return.
Posted Jun 28, 2004 1:03 pm

mcmedvedRoute Climbed: DC Date Climbed: June 22, 2004  Sucess!

mcmedved

Great climb on a beautiful day. My first big mountain summit; climbed with brother Doug. Fantastic views.
Posted Jun 28, 2004 9:21 am

Jeff HRoute Climbed: Emmons-Winthrop Date Climbed: June 21-23  Sucess!
Enjoyed a wonderful trip with three climbing partners in warm conditions. Late start on Monday got us to the Inter Glacier. Slept in and eventually made it to camp Schurman on Tuesday. 2 AM start in soft snow made for slow going at first but it finally firmed up and the summit was reached at 9 AM. Cold and windy on top. Only two other climbers on the route. Advantage of going during the middle of the week I assume.
Posted Jun 25, 2004 7:05 pm

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