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PawkalaRoute Climbed: Emmons Date Climbed: July 29, 2005  Sucess!


Left the parking lot late afternoon to get to Glacier Basin for a great nights sleep. Super warm, so we got a pre dawn start up the Inter glacier. Got to the bottle neck just past camp curtis upon the descent of the prow. Helped a large group of climbers from Michigan that were terrified of the rotten rock along the prow. Made it to Schurman for some lunch and a restful afternoon in the hot sun. Got up at 11pm to high winds and a start up the Emmons by Midnight. The track was pretty choppy as there has not been any new snow for some time. The trail is fairly straight forward this year and most of it can be seen from below. Stay right and go around the bergschrund. It will take you to the saddle between Columbia Crest and the Russel Cliffs. Summited by 6:30 with 50+MPH winds and sub freezing temps. Back down to Schurman by 10am. Loaded up and went back to the cars. 15,000 feet elevation change in one day is alot, especially on 2 hours sleep. What a beautiful mountain.
Posted Aug 1, 2005 2:57 pm

cbuelowRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 30, 2005  Sucess!


Great climb with my buddy Ol' Walsher. RMI led us to the top and I can't say enough about their performance on the mountain. The view from the top was incredible - from Mt. Baker to Mt. Jefferson, with the skyscrapers of Seattle clearly visible next to Puget Sound. An amazing mountain!
Posted Jul 31, 2005 11:22 pm

easleygoneRoute Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July 1991
Made it to 12500' before we were stormed back. A plane load of rodeo cowboys hit the mountain during that storm.
Posted Jul 31, 2005 10:06 am

pdeangeliRoute Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July 28, 2005  Sucess!


Great climb with RMI, 51 degrees F at 12:15 a.m. at Muir to start out, zero wind on summit, and really hot on descent, as we cut new switchbacks down the cleaver.
Posted Jul 31, 2005 12:16 am

cluckRoute Climbed: DC Date Climbed: July 28 2005  Sucess!


1st Rainier summit on my birthday. Blue sky and no wind. While warm, route was in reasonable condition. Mostly still snow on the Cleaver. Lots of route wander up high to skirt the slots. Start climb just after midnight. Muir to summit in about 6 hours. Back to Paradise parking lot at 2PM.
Posted Jul 29, 2005 2:57 pm

ClintorisRoute Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 15  Sucess!


My third time climbing and my second summit. I'll be back up on top again in a week or so.
Posted Jul 26, 2005 3:22 pm

gimpilatorRoute Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 24 2005  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2005


We started Friday afternoon and reached the summit from Ingraham Flat 6:30 AM on Sunday. We were unusually lucky as far as weather goes. Only one white-out on the way to Muir and mild wind all day Sunday. We missed a giant avalanche on the cowlitz glacier by about a half hour. It looked like it came down from Cadaver Gap. One rock was the size of a large house. Eleven of our party of thirteen summited.
Posted Jul 26, 2005 12:27 pm

jtostenrRoute Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 24, 2005  Sucess!


Three of us left at about midnight, so we ended up dealing with the RMI people all the way up. The weather was perfect this weekend and made this climb very enjoyable. We hit the summit at about 7AM, as we were taking it pretty easy. We headed back to camp for a nap and some food. The hike out treated us with visits from a marmot and quite a few friendly deer. The flowers were amazing. Looking forward to next year, maybe we'll try the Ingraham Direct.
Posted Jul 25, 2005 6:39 pm

Posted Jul 22, 2005 8:35 pm

fat_squirrelRoute Climbed: Emmons Glacier Date Climbed: July 17th, 2005  Sucess!


After an unnsuccesful summit attempt the day before (high winds at 12.5K), we left Emmons Flats among some 10-20 other teams at 1:30AM.

Despite frequent traffic jams, we made good progress and reached the summit near 7:30AM. The most interesting obstacle of the route was the bergschrund near 13.5K.

I suspect that the kick-step ladder-bridge would be gone within the next day or two, which would make for a long traverse over the

saddle to the north from the established route.

It was quite windy near the summit, so we opted to stay on snow (rime ice) and head southwest directly into the crater rather than for the

summit hill.

Just over the crest, large sections of warm, steaming soil were exposed and there was not wind, making for a great place to make some miso soup!

We walked over to the summit, met some friends who ascended the DC route,

took some pics
, walked over to the summit register, packed up and headed down shortly after 10:00AM.

Overall, a great climb and a great mountain. Would do it again any time!
Posted Jul 19, 2005 11:12 am

GuiltySolo 1 day from paradise


I departed from Paradise at 8am. After reaching Camp Muir, I was thinking of turning around with the high winds and storm clouds moving in. I decided to go, until it was to dangerous to climb. Towards the last 1/2 mile was the slowest, storm clouds rushing by so fast. The only way I was able to stay on my feet, is having my ice axe stuck deep in the snow, and attach to my harness. The last 100 yards was worst, I had crawl up to the summit ridge. Well, it took a long 7 hours to the summit, and 3 hours down. This is my third summit on this route.
Posted Jul 16, 2005 11:18 pm

captainstokesRoute Climbed: Emmons Date Climbed: July 7, 2005  Sucess!
Rob O. and I packed our skis all the way to the summit, but the snow never softened up enough and we downclimbed all the way back to the Corridor before we could ski. And the skiing was terrible! death crust over slush. We saw the helicopters flying by - unknown to us at the time a rescue was taking place on the south side.
Posted Jul 15, 2005 2:08 pm

althegreekRoute Climbed: emmons(2003), disappointment(2002) Date Climbed: july 4 2003, august 2002  Sucess!


nice weather and great views both times. emmons was more of a slog though less crowded than dissapointment.
Posted Jul 12, 2005 6:33 pm

GooseRoute Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 21, 2005  Sucess!
Our 5 man rope team (all but 1 had never done any mountianeering) made summit in 5 hours. As the first team up that day we had the pleasure of breaking trail and even had to re-route up a 15 foot near vertical face due to a crevasse. What a great day!!!
Posted Jun 23, 2005 4:21 pm

mtnsavyRoute Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: Aug 1998  Sucess!
Afternoon sun sent several large ice avalanches through Camp Hazard.
Posted Jun 21, 2005 1:55 am

rblevins42Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 15th, 2005  Sucess!


Fantastic Climb - Clear weather, extremely cold on the summit. We summitted in our down parkas.
Posted Jun 20, 2005 10:54 pm

GormanRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 9, 2002  Sucess!


Picture perfect day for a summit. Blue skies as far as the eye could see.
Posted Jun 15, 2005 3:22 pm

alpine masterRoute Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 6 2005  Sucess!

alpine master

Was part of Old Ickabod's team. His summit log is posted with detail a couple before mine. It was a much rougher day than I anticipated and very humling with the crevasse incident. Being dragged towards the crevasse was quite a rush, Wahoo!!! Our team did a good job pulling it together and reaching the summit. Thanks to my buddies for a great experience.
Posted Jun 15, 2005 11:37 am

Paul BurkholderRoute Climbed: Ingraham Glacier Direct Date Climbed: June 11, 2005  Sucess!

Paul Burkholder

Our enthusiasm was curbed somewhat by the news that a fellow climber had died on our planned ascent route (Gib Ledges). Rest in peace Mike, and may your friends and family find comfort.

We decided to do Ingraham instead. We found the going not technically difficult and route-finding was not a problem. However, it was physically strenuous (it is a big mountain). We reached the rim just after sun-rise expecting to be the only ones there, but a group of hardy Czechs were camped out in the crater!

Thanks to my partners Al and Pat, with extra thanks to Ed, who did most of the planning and led the entire climb.

Posted Jun 14, 2005 8:45 pm

Old IckabodRoute Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: 6/6/05  Sucess!

Old Ickabod

Spectacular feeling to reach the summit! As I led through the Ingraham Icefall, a snowbridge I was crossing collapsed and I plunged 30 feet before being arrested by my two team members (dragging one of them 10 feet toward the crevasse). I sustained no physical injuries, but I was rocked emotionally. They hauled me up with spectacular leadership from the RMI Guides that came up behind us. My nerves were shot, but my commitment to the team was strong. We continued cautiously with Kevin Wright leading and we summited after 9 hours. We retraced our steps from 13,000 to Camp Muir in a whiteout. 13 hours roundtrip with two spectacular teammates. It was a true life changing experience, but I learned a lot on the trip. Rainier is now a huge part of my life. Special thanks to Kenny Hays who self arrested the moment he saw me disappear into the crevasse and to Kevin Wright for setting the anchor and assisting in the rescue just as quick!
Posted Jun 12, 2005 6:40 pm

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