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rhlairdRoute Climbed: Emmons Date Climbed: August 3, 2000  Sucess!

rhlaird

Summitted via the Emmons with my dad, Steve Jobe, Chad Sageser and his girlfriend. This was a second attempt after being blown off the mountain by weather the previus June. August is definitely the time to climb weather wise. This late in the season, the route is pretty tracked up making route finding straightforward. Number of crevasses and fallen snow bridges made route circuitous. Took 8 hours from Schurman to summit.
Posted Aug 3, 2002 10:31 am

MicheleRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 11, 2002

Michele

An awesome mountain. Unusually warm weather and very high winds. I climbed with just one other person and would have had more confidence with a more experienced team. His summit feaver was making me a little leery. I will be climbing Rainier again late this season or early next, with the cooler temperatures and more snow.
Posted Aug 1, 2002 11:54 pm

David P.Route Climbed: Emmons/DC Date Climbed: July 28, 2002  Sucess!

David P.

Our group of 3 left Emmons Flats (9800 ft) at 1:15 am and we reached the top of Columbia Crest at 7:30 am. In general, conditions were good, except for the intermittent blasts of intense wind and the warmish temps. We opted for traversing from the Emmons route towards the Disappointment Cleaver route which joined the DC route near 13,500 ft or so. The winds out of the west intensified throughout the day and turned around many parties. Between 11,000 and 12,500 ft, the whipping clouds soaked us and higher up we became thoroughly coated in ice. Glasses and goggles iced up so badly that they were worthless, even with frequent wipes. The winds on the crater rim were incredible, less so across the crater itself and negligible on the lee side of the rim. We reached our tent at 10:45 am after being blasted every few minutes or so by wind (up to 50-60? mph requiring us to stop and brace ourselves) and ice pellets, which filled in the track and quickly turned into slush. Each one of us punched through at least up to the ankle, inspite of our best intentions. In many places the boot track is not the safest or best line, particularly with the intense melting out of snow bridges and opening up of crevasses.

Posted Jul 31, 2002 8:17 am

mountaindogRoute Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: July 1998

mountaindog

Crap weather stopped us 1000 feet from the top. Too hot and the snow conditions were crap. How many snowbridges can fall in one day? Descended the Dis. Cleaver route. Must return to do this one.
Posted Jul 30, 2002 5:02 am

Fred SpickerRoute Climbed: Fuhrer Finger Date Climbed: 24 & 25 May 1975

Fred Spicker

Climbed with David Coughlin & Bob Walsh.
Posted Jul 25, 2002 9:52 am

kj1611avRoute Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 13, 2002  Sucess!
Excellent Weather, a few weak snow bridges, nice views of Adams and Hood, like an oven coming down
Posted Jul 22, 2002 10:55 pm

MrSheridanRoute Climbed: DC / Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2000  Sucess!
Awesome weather - clear skies 80-mile visibility. Start from Paradise, camp at Ingraham Flats. Windy night with loud rockfall, 12:30 am departure for summit. Cleaver very sketchy due to melt, so Ingraham direct was route of choice of guide services, we followed them. Glacial ice/snow of dubious quality due to unseasonably warm weather. Large, scary, overhanging seracs, and two crevasse crossings on guide-service ladders. Campers above Cleaver had been buffeted by winds overnight. Haggered-looking climbers here. Ingraham Glacier berschrund traverse only major objective danger. 12-inch wide footledge, 90+ foot icewall, 60+ foot traverse, 500+ foot drop into serac field down 80-degree snow slope. Scary and unnerving, but exciting, too. Grueling, never-ending, 30-degree sloping switchbacks lead to summit, 10:00 am. No walk to Western crater rim to sign guestbook. Departed summit roughly 15 minutes after arrival. Long, very tedious, trek to high camp. Tent blown free of glacier and into crevasse (no extraction). On to Camp Muir and thence back to Paradise. Incredible work-out, absolute exhaustion and euphoria. An incredible adventure. Bring snow flukes for your tent!
Posted Jul 22, 2002 7:52 am

BicRungeeRoute Climbed: Kautz & Emmons Date Climbed: July, 1997 & Aug, 1999  Sucess!


First climbed with Noonan via the Kautz. Spent first night just above the turtle then 2nd at camp hazard. Traversed into chute then easy conditions - frozen suncups. Summited at dawn. Second ascent with Peter & Matt via Emmons. Both times cold and windy on top.
Posted Jul 10, 2002 4:18 pm

HammerRoute Climbed: Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Date Climbed: June 22, 2002

Hammer

After camping at Glacier basin and then on Steamboat Prow, we turned around at 13400' due to getting pummeled by a quick forming lenticular cloud. With the winds picking up and visibility dropping drastically we aborted our attempt. Hindsight says we should have continued because it cleared about an hour or so later, but better caution on the safer side. After another night on Steamboat Prow we descended the next day out to the trailhead. Next time!
Posted Jul 9, 2002 1:00 pm

khalamaRoute Climbed: Emmons Glacier Date Climbed: July 5,2002  Sucess!

khalama

"Summitted Mt. Rainier with three friends, via the Emmons Glacier route, after spending two days holed up at Schurman Camp by high winds and periodic whiteouts. The weather on summit day was absolutely spectacular!!! Skies were clear and the winds were light to moderate. The route at that time was very straight forward, straight up the glacier to the bergshrund and then right to a snow bridge, then up to the summit crater. The route was amazingly un-crevassed, but these conditions will change as warmer weather melts the overlying snow pack. Early morning snow conditions were perfect for cramponing, however by late morning and early afternoon crampons were a definite drawback. The wet snow balled between the crampon teeth and increased the risk of falling. Our early morning acent up "the Corridor" was greeted by a erie, yet spectacular, waning red crecent moon rising in the east. It turned out to be a good omen as our group, and another group of two climbers, summitted and returned to camp safely. "
Posted Jul 8, 2002 1:37 pm

AlexeyDRoute Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: july 2-6

AlexeyD

got to bergschrund at 13,850 feet on the uppermost part of the Kautz Route (the section on the upper Nisqually Glacier). Quite a trip - almost got hit by icefall on the descent gully to the Kautz Ice Chute; rappelled the chute in the dark with just one headlamp. Glad to be alive...





greetings to Greg if you're reading this :)
Posted Jul 8, 2002 12:55 pm

ZekeRoute Climbed: Emmons Direct Date Climbed: June 24, 2002  Sucess!

Zeke

Fantastic climb and a great way to summit the mountain. Less congested and very straight forward.
Posted Jul 8, 2002 6:53 am

Jerry LRoute Climbed: Disappoinment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 13, 2002  Sucess!

Jerry L

I climbed it with a buddy of mine. We roped up with two climbers that we met from California. We had great weather and near perfect climbing conditions. Spectacular views. We were nervous as five climbers had died the previous two weeks. The Park Rangers were stressing caution, we had never done the route, and we went without RMI Guides. No problem.
Posted Jun 30, 2002 5:10 am

VinnyRoute Climbed: Dawg Route Date Climbed: June 1998?

Vinny

From Seattle you can see why so many Americans get hard about this Mountain- it is impressive!



The goretex clad crowds though were unlike anything I've seen in the new world. That was before I moved to Europe ; )



First try to 12,800 ft, next to 14,000 on the DC (Dawg Route), due to weather- I'll have to try a more interesting way with more than just a weekend to run for it. Hopefully on skis.



Great experiences with the Vancouver Boys- Adrian, Perry, Pierre, Pierrot.



Posted Jun 28, 2002 8:07 am

Noah (Oregon)Route Climbed: Ingram Direct from Camp Muir Date Climbed: June 15th, 2002

Noah (Oregon)

It isn't very satisfying to write about a mountain we failed to summit but after all the deaths this year it doesn't bother me to admit we were overly cautious. The weather was great and there was no reason for us to not have summited. But because we got a late start from Muir (2:02 am) and sat in a traffic jam on Ingram Flats (for over an hour) there was no way we were going to make it up and back in a reasonable amount of time.



Words of advice:

Don't leave after the RMI guide groups;

Try to sleep more than 2 hours (six would have been nice);

Don't expect to be able to pass other rope teams on the glacier (if it is sketchy, people will be using running belays and moving very slowly over narrow snow bridges, so you have to wait your turn);

Boil your drinking water before, not after cooking beans and rice in your pot;

Safety first, using every piece of protection and all the running belays is slow but it beats falling off the mountain;

Use lots and lots of sunscreen;

Remember to save some energy for the decent. If you burn yourself out on a push to the summit and have nothing left, getting back through the Ingram Glacier and Cathedral Gap will not be fun or safe.



I will be back next year for another attempt and I will have learned a lot from this year's mistakes...
Posted Jun 17, 2002 11:24 pm

barryRoute Climbed: cleaver Date Climbed: july 27 2001  Sucess!

barry

lead 8 team members from fl. az. and wa. my first ascent on rainier, great weather above 9000 ft. for whole trip. everyone made it. we have a web page at snowandsports.com.
Posted Jun 7, 2002 6:26 am

AlexeyDRoute Climbed: Kautz Date Climbed: june 10 2001

AlexeyD

an epic...i'll have to write a trip report for this one. 3+ feet of snow, wind, 36 hours in a tent at high camp, incredible descent w/ near-death avalanche incident along the way, and more. The mountain really kicked our ass...
Posted Jun 6, 2002 10:24 am

AlexeyDRoute Climbed: ingraham glacier Date Climbed: labor day 2000  Sucess!

AlexeyD

very nice trip, not many people. The route was in surprisingly good shape for this late in the season. Unusually cold weather for this time of year and some snowfall overnight - didnt cause any problems, but enough to make the mountain look white, pristine and very alpine in character. Camped up near the summit - the overnight temperature dropped to about -15 fahrenheit (MINUS fifteen, thats right) but there was no wind at all so it wasnt too bad.





Posted Jun 6, 2002 10:21 am

WScottFRoute Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: May 27 2002  Sucess!

WScottF

Climbed Gib Ledges the day before, today had much better weather. Ingraham Direct was in great shape.
Posted May 29, 2002 11:43 am

WScottFRoute Climbed: Gibraltar Ledges Date Climbed: May 26 2002  Sucess!

WScottF

Gib Ledges was in good shape, but the weather deteriorated above 13,000 feet.
Posted May 29, 2002 11:41 am

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