Mount Rainier Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|Drazil||Route Climbed: Disapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: 29-August-2002|
|Joined RMI, Inc. (and a great group of climbers) for a 3day Summit Climb including a day of instruction. We practiced basic mountaineering skills under the close supervision of our guides / instructors, J.J., Noah and Mario.|
The following day we hiked up to Camp Muir carrying 50-60 lb. packs. The pace set was a good one and the weather was warm. Once at Camp Muir we prepared ourselves for the summit bid. We were scheduled for an alpine assent departing CM at about ~12:30 AM.
Roped up and headed out under a half moon in really mild weather across steep snow, ice, volcanic scree and rock. Stepped over some crevasses, only one of which was spanned by a ladder. Once on the summit, those of us who were up to it, dropped our packs for a quick hike across the crater to sign the register and take some photos. The sky was nearly cloudless, but the haze prevented us from getting a view of Seattle.
Back down to CM for a break and to pack our belongings, then the long way down over 'snow buckets', ice, rock and the final hike down to Paradise.
Great fun! J.J., Garrett and Mario, thank you !! :) Enjoyed meeting everybody in the group.
This being my first experience over glaciated terrain, I learned a lot. Definitely a test in endurance.
|Posted Sep 5, 2002 8:17 pm|
|scot'teryx||Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: Sunday August 18, 2002|
|Arrived at Muir on Friday to a great day with blue skies. Rested on Saturday and waited for our 4th member to bring the rope. Left Sunday morning at 1230 and arrived at the summit at 7am. The cleaver was hell, and once above the cleaver it is just plain simple, no navigation and tons of switchbacks, probably because of the time of year and such, but it was still fun to share the summit with my wife alison. Got lost on the cleaver on the way down since there are so many wands marking various routes. Back at Muir at 12 noon and to the car at 345pm. Long summit day for sure.|
|Posted Aug 19, 2002 5:47 pm|
|Rich Park||Route Climbed: Emmons/Winthrop Date Climbed: july 29 2002|
|Reached Schurman Camp on the 28th and was greeted by blue skies and high winds. We planned on|
making our summit bid that evening but decided against it due to the increasing high winds. Next year for sure!!!
|Posted Aug 8, 2002 2:46 am|
|scot'teryx||Route Climbed: Emmons/Winthrop Date Climbed: July 24, 2002|
|Left Emmons FLats at 11pm, due to the high freezing level of 14k feet. Was not my call, but I would have left at 1am or so. With a slower group, my rope team froze in the caboose, but it was okay. Made it to the top at 615am. Hung out on the summit for abit until the clouds moved and we headed down. I was sick with AMS from 13K up, and did not feel better till after we packed up on summit day and retreated down the Interglacier. Ran out of there as fast as I could, it is always longer on the way out.|
|Posted Aug 7, 2002 12:46 am|
|rhlaird||Route Climbed: Emmons Date Climbed: August 3, 2000|
|Summitted via the Emmons with my dad, Steve Jobe, Chad Sageser and his girlfriend. This was a second attempt after being blown off the mountain by weather the previus June. August is definitely the time to climb weather wise. This late in the season, the route is pretty tracked up making route finding straightforward. Number of crevasses and fallen snow bridges made route circuitous. Took 8 hours from Schurman to summit.|
|Posted Aug 3, 2002 10:31 am|
|Michele||Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 11, 2002|
|An awesome mountain. Unusually warm weather and very high winds. I climbed with just one other person and would have had more confidence with a more experienced team. His summit feaver was making me a little leery. I will be climbing Rainier again late this season or early next, with the cooler temperatures and more snow.|
|Posted Aug 1, 2002 11:54 pm|
|David P.||Route Climbed: Emmons/DC Date Climbed: July 28, 2002|
|Our group of 3 left Emmons Flats (9800 ft) at 1:15 am and we reached the top of Columbia Crest at 7:30 am. In general, conditions were good, except for the intermittent blasts of intense wind and the warmish temps. We opted for traversing from the Emmons route towards the Disappointment Cleaver route which joined the DC route near 13,500 ft or so. The winds out of the west intensified throughout the day and turned around many parties. Between 11,000 and 12,500 ft, the whipping clouds soaked us and higher up we became thoroughly coated in ice. Glasses and goggles iced up so badly that they were worthless, even with frequent wipes. The winds on the crater rim were incredible, less so across the crater itself and negligible on the lee side of the rim. We reached our tent at 10:45 am after being blasted every few minutes or so by wind (up to 50-60? mph requiring us to stop and brace ourselves) and ice pellets, which filled in the track and quickly turned into slush. Each one of us punched through at least up to the ankle, inspite of our best intentions. In many places the boot track is not the safest or best line, particularly with the intense melting out of snow bridges and opening up of crevasses.|
|Posted Jul 31, 2002 8:17 am|
|mountaindog||Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: July 1998|
|Crap weather stopped us 1000 feet from the top. Too hot and the snow conditions were crap. How many snowbridges can fall in one day? Descended the Dis. Cleaver route. Must return to do this one.|
|Posted Jul 30, 2002 5:02 am|
|Fred Spicker||Route Climbed: Fuhrer Finger Date Climbed: 24 & 25 May 1975|
|Climbed with David Coughlin & Bob Walsh.|
|Posted Jul 25, 2002 9:52 am|
|kj1611av||Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: June 13, 2002|
|Excellent Weather, a few weak snow bridges, nice views of Adams and Hood, like an oven coming down|
|Posted Jul 22, 2002 10:55 pm|
|MrSheridan||Route Climbed: DC / Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2000|
|Awesome weather - clear skies 80-mile visibility. Start from Paradise, camp at Ingraham Flats. Windy night with loud rockfall, 12:30 am departure for summit. Cleaver very sketchy due to melt, so Ingraham direct was route of choice of guide services, we followed them. Glacial ice/snow of dubious quality due to unseasonably warm weather. Large, scary, overhanging seracs, and two crevasse crossings on guide-service ladders. Campers above Cleaver had been buffeted by winds overnight. Haggered-looking climbers here. Ingraham Glacier berschrund traverse only major objective danger. 12-inch wide footledge, 90+ foot icewall, 60+ foot traverse, 500+ foot drop into serac field down 80-degree snow slope. Scary and unnerving, but exciting, too. Grueling, never-ending, 30-degree sloping switchbacks lead to summit, 10:00 am. No walk to Western crater rim to sign guestbook. Departed summit roughly 15 minutes after arrival. Long, very tedious, trek to high camp. Tent blown free of glacier and into crevasse (no extraction). On to Camp Muir and thence back to Paradise. Incredible work-out, absolute exhaustion and euphoria. An incredible adventure. Bring snow flukes for your tent!|
|Posted Jul 22, 2002 7:52 am|
|BicRungee||Route Climbed: Kautz & Emmons Date Climbed: July, 1997 & Aug, 1999|
First climbed with Noonan via the Kautz. Spent first night just above the turtle then 2nd at camp hazard. Traversed into chute then easy conditions - frozen suncups. Summited at dawn. Second ascent with Peter & Matt via Emmons. Both times cold and windy on top.
|Posted Jul 10, 2002 4:18 pm|
|Hammer||Route Climbed: Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Date Climbed: June 22, 2002|
|After camping at Glacier basin and then on Steamboat Prow, we turned around at 13400' due to getting pummeled by a quick forming lenticular cloud. With the winds picking up and visibility dropping drastically we aborted our attempt. Hindsight says we should have continued because it cleared about an hour or so later, but better caution on the safer side. After another night on Steamboat Prow we descended the next day out to the trailhead. Next time!|
|Posted Jul 9, 2002 1:00 pm|
|khalama||Route Climbed: Emmons Glacier Date Climbed: July 5,2002|
|"Summitted Mt. Rainier with three friends, via the Emmons Glacier route, after spending two days holed up at Schurman Camp by high winds and periodic whiteouts. The weather on summit day was absolutely spectacular!!! Skies were clear and the winds were light to moderate. The route at that time was very straight forward, straight up the glacier to the bergshrund and then right to a snow bridge, then up to the summit crater. The route was amazingly un-crevassed, but these conditions will change as warmer weather melts the overlying snow pack. Early morning snow conditions were perfect for cramponing, however by late morning and early afternoon crampons were a definite drawback. The wet snow balled between the crampon teeth and increased the risk of falling. Our early morning acent up "the Corridor" was greeted by a erie, yet spectacular, waning red crecent moon rising in the east. It turned out to be a good omen as our group, and another group of two climbers, summitted and returned to camp safely. "|
|Posted Jul 8, 2002 1:37 pm|
|AlexeyD||Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: july 2-6|
|got to bergschrund at 13,850 feet on the uppermost part of the Kautz Route (the section on the upper Nisqually Glacier). Quite a trip - almost got hit by icefall on the descent gully to the Kautz Ice Chute; rappelled the chute in the dark with just one headlamp. Glad to be alive...|
greetings to Greg if you're reading this :)
|Posted Jul 8, 2002 12:55 pm|
|Zeke||Route Climbed: Emmons Direct Date Climbed: June 24, 2002|
|Fantastic climb and a great way to summit the mountain. Less congested and very straight forward.|
|Posted Jul 8, 2002 6:53 am|
|Jerry L||Route Climbed: Disappoinment Cleaver Date Climbed: June 13, 2002|
|I climbed it with a buddy of mine. We roped up with two climbers that we met from California. We had great weather and near perfect climbing conditions. Spectacular views. We were nervous as five climbers had died the previous two weeks. The Park Rangers were stressing caution, we had never done the route, and we went without RMI Guides. No problem.|
|Posted Jun 30, 2002 5:10 am|
|Vinny||Route Climbed: Dawg Route Date Climbed: June 1998?|
|From Seattle you can see why so many Americans get hard about this Mountain- it is impressive!|
The goretex clad crowds though were unlike anything I've seen in the new world. That was before I moved to Europe ; )
First try to 12,800 ft, next to 14,000 on the DC (Dawg Route), due to weather- I'll have to try a more interesting way with more than just a weekend to run for it. Hopefully on skis.
Great experiences with the Vancouver Boys- Adrian, Perry, Pierre, Pierrot.
|Posted Jun 28, 2002 8:07 am|
|Noah (Oregon)||Route Climbed: Ingram Direct from Camp Muir Date Climbed: June 15th, 2002|
|It isn't very satisfying to write about a mountain we failed to summit but after all the deaths this year it doesn't bother me to admit we were overly cautious. The weather was great and there was no reason for us to not have summited. But because we got a late start from Muir (2:02 am) and sat in a traffic jam on Ingram Flats (for over an hour) there was no way we were going to make it up and back in a reasonable amount of time.|
Words of advice:
Don't leave after the RMI guide groups;
Try to sleep more than 2 hours (six would have been nice);
Don't expect to be able to pass other rope teams on the glacier (if it is sketchy, people will be using running belays and moving very slowly over narrow snow bridges, so you have to wait your turn);
Boil your drinking water before, not after cooking beans and rice in your pot;
Safety first, using every piece of protection and all the running belays is slow but it beats falling off the mountain;
Use lots and lots of sunscreen;
Remember to save some energy for the decent. If you burn yourself out on a push to the summit and have nothing left, getting back through the Ingram Glacier and Cathedral Gap will not be fun or safe.
I will be back next year for another attempt and I will have learned a lot from this year's mistakes...
|Posted Jun 17, 2002 11:24 pm|
|barry||Route Climbed: cleaver Date Climbed: july 27 2001|
|lead 8 team members from fl. az. and wa. my first ascent on rainier, great weather above 9000 ft. for whole trip. everyone made it. we have a web page at snowandsports.com.|
|Posted Jun 7, 2002 6:26 am|