Route Climbed: Kautz Cleaver/Emmons Glacier/ Liberty Ridge. Date Climbed: 15 June 2004/August 1999
A great moderate route. We did not see anyone else until we reached the summit. Climbed the Emmons in August of 1999. A straight forward glacier slog. Climbed Liberty Ridge 22Jun06. Great conditions, descent via Emmons was torture.
Dug in on the snow field just below Muir hut. My wife was falling asleep walking and it was icing up bad(we didn't have crampons). Wind started blowing so I put some big rocks in the corner of our cheap 3 season tent. It was a cool night. When I woke up in the middle of the night Adams and Baker? Looked like islands sticking out of the clouds. It was crystal clear above 8000 feet. The nest day we finished hiking to Muir base camp and then glissaded back to paradise in what seemed like minutes. Really a great time in the mountains.
Route Climbed: Ingrams derect Date Climbed: June 25 05
Camped below muir, Great weather clear and 50. Left at 11:30 PM up ice fall and glacier. the coldest ive ever been just before the sun came up. Summit @8:30 AM felt sick but a great view. Retuned to muir at 2:30PM lots of rock fall.
great epic climb, camel back froze, got altitude sickness, all alone at 13,000 very epic as I was disorientated and unforgettable and had to rope up with another climbing group going down as I was just sitting alone anchored to the mountain and getting covered by spindrift....lol
Perfect weather for the 3 days we were on the mountain, The route was in good shape. Some fun route finding above camp hazard at 2am.
Holsti97 - Nov 8, 2005 3:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2003
Route Climbed: Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Date Climbed: August 16, 2003
We started our climb from the White River Campground at 4400'. Hiked along the White River up to Inter Glacier camp at about 8000' and made camp. The next day we practiced self-arrest on the glacier and climbed up to Steamboat Prow and made camp at Camp Schurman (9500'). Started from Camp Schurman at 2:00 AM. Climbed with guides Jason Tanguay, Tap Richards, Heidi Eichner, and Mason Stafford from IMG under beautiful stars and a bright red planet Mars. Two members of our team turned around with a guide due to altitude sickness. I reached the summit with my friend Ed and Norm from Connecticut. Snow was slushy and crevasses dangerous on way down. Stayed one more night at Camp Schurman and then hiked down. Thought it was cool that 2 of my guides have recently completed the Seven summits (2006) and another has climbed Denali, Vinson, Kili, and Everest. Also had dinner with IMG owner Eric Simonson the night before our climb started. Nice guy. My first mountain climb ever. HP #1.
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: 1969
Part way up (13,500?) both of my climbing partners, Brian Farnsworth and Mike Contos got alltitude sickness, I continued to the crater rim, left my pack and went back down, one of my partners Mike Contos was feeling better so he came with me to the top, we had a hard time finding the summit register, it was my first big Mountain and I loved it.....I was 19
Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: July 16, 2005
Long approach to high camp half way up the "Turtle". We camped at approx. 9500 ft. Made for long summit day. We turned around at 9am, 200 ft from the summit. We were very concerned about climbing down through the icefall late in the morning.
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July, 2002
It was my first mountaineering experience and immediatly fell in love with climbing mountains. Reached the summit in perfectly clear skys, with lots of wind. What a great mountain to start on!
Route Climbed: Ingraham glacier Date Climbed: Late August 2004
This was my first climbing experience. It changed my life and showed me a new world. I can't wait to get into the more technical side of mountaineering.
Route Climbed: Ingraham glacier/disappointment cleaver Date Climbed: july 1979
My partner and I joined up with another team of 2 to make it safer. Made the top from Muir hut during a slim weather window between 2 storms. Fantastic mountain!
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: August 21, 1986
We arrived in Paradise on the 19th and decided on a spur-of-the-moment climb. The same day we headed up and camped on the snowfield after the big warning sign. The next day we headed up to Camp Muir. At 1:30am on the 21st we set out for the summit. I remember being very nervous. It was my first time on a heavily glaciated mountain and my first time above 11,000 feet. As we approached the top of the Cleaver, our flashlight's bulb burned out. Luckily there was a big moon to light the rest of the way. We made it to the top just after dawn. There was no wind or clouds and there were supremely great views. On the descent, coming around the base of the Cleaver, we had to run over verglassed pumice to escape heavy rockfall--it was a terrifying close call. All in all, a great experience but draining due to the dangerous conditions.
setrent - Dec 21, 2005 11:26 pm
Route Climbed: Kautz Cleaver/Emmons Glacier/ Liberty Ridge. Date Climbed: 15 June 2004/August 1999A great moderate route. We did not see anyone else until we reached the summit. Climbed the Emmons in August of 1999. A straight forward glacier slog. Climbed Liberty Ridge 22Jun06. Great conditions, descent via Emmons was torture.
hawkman - Dec 21, 2005 6:55 pm
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: Aug 2005Great trip. Gave me the mountaineering bug.
Rileywyna - Dec 21, 2005 7:37 am
Route Climbed: reg Date Climbed: aug 1997Dug in on the snow field just below Muir hut. My wife was falling asleep walking and it was icing up bad(we didn't have crampons). Wind started blowing so I put some big rocks in the corner of our cheap 3 season tent. It was a cool night. When I woke up in the middle of the night Adams and Baker? Looked like islands sticking out of the clouds. It was crystal clear above 8000 feet. The nest day we finished hiking to Muir base camp and then glissaded back to paradise in what seemed like minutes. Really a great time in the mountains.
Then off to luxury and room service.
markmay - Dec 8, 2005 9:03 pm
Route Climbed: Ingraham Direct Date Climbed: July 2 2005Beautiful day in the mountains
markmay - Dec 8, 2005 9:00 pm
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July 31 2005Great route. Car to Summit to car in a day, no bivys.
glimmert - Nov 21, 2005 2:16 pm
Route Climbed: Ingrams derect Date Climbed: June 25 05Camped below muir, Great weather clear and 50. Left at 11:30 PM up ice fall and glacier. the coldest ive ever been just before the sun came up. Summit @8:30 AM felt sick but a great view. Retuned to muir at 2:30PM lots of rock fall.
alpinedan - Nov 15, 2005 10:56 am
Route Climbed: various Date Climbed: may 2001-2004great climbing, many storms and bad weather
alpinedan - Nov 15, 2005 10:54 am
Route Climbed: DC Date Climbed: may1999great epic climb, camel back froze, got altitude sickness, all alone at 13,000 very epic as I was disorientated and unforgettable and had to rope up with another climbing group going down as I was just sitting alone anchored to the mountain and getting covered by spindrift....lol
alpinedan - Nov 15, 2005 10:30 am
Route Climbed: jib ledges Date Climbed: may 2000great epic climb
dkmayhew - Nov 13, 2005 8:29 pm
Route Climbed: Kautz Date Climbed: July 2000Perfect weather for the 3 days we were on the mountain, The route was in good shape. Some fun route finding above camp hazard at 2am.
Holsti97 - Nov 8, 2005 3:02 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2003
Route Climbed: Emmons-Winthrop Glacier Date Climbed: August 16, 2003We started our climb from the White River Campground at 4400'. Hiked along the White River up to Inter Glacier camp at about 8000' and made camp. The next day we practiced self-arrest on the glacier and climbed up to Steamboat Prow and made camp at Camp Schurman (9500'). Started from Camp Schurman at 2:00 AM. Climbed with guides Jason Tanguay, Tap Richards, Heidi Eichner, and Mason Stafford from IMG under beautiful stars and a bright red planet Mars. Two members of our team turned around with a guide due to altitude sickness. I reached the summit with my friend Ed and Norm from Connecticut. Snow was slushy and crevasses dangerous on way down. Stayed one more night at Camp Schurman and then hiked down. Thought it was cool that 2 of my guides have recently completed the Seven summits (2006) and another has climbed Denali, Vinson, Kili, and Everest. Also had dinner with IMG owner Eric Simonson the night before our climb started. Nice guy. My first mountain climb ever. HP #1.
younkin - Nov 5, 2005 11:39 am
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: 1969Part way up (13,500?) both of my climbing partners, Brian Farnsworth and Mike Contos got alltitude sickness, I continued to the crater rim, left my pack and went back down, one of my partners Mike Contos was feeling better so he came with me to the top, we had a hard time finding the summit register, it was my first big Mountain and I loved it.....I was 19
esugi - Nov 3, 2005 11:55 pm
Route Climbed: Kautz Glacier Date Climbed: July 16, 2005Long approach to high camp half way up the "Turtle". We camped at approx. 9500 ft. Made for long summit day. We turned around at 9am, 200 ft from the summit. We were very concerned about climbing down through the icefall late in the morning.
thljr922 - Nov 2, 2005 11:12 am
Route Climbed: Dissapointment Cleaver Date Climbed: July, 2002It was my first mountaineering experience and immediatly fell in love with climbing mountains. Reached the summit in perfectly clear skys, with lots of wind. What a great mountain to start on!
outofstep80 - Oct 17, 2005 11:12 am
Route Climbed: Ingraham glacier Date Climbed: Late August 2004This was my first climbing experience. It changed my life and showed me a new world. I can't wait to get into the more technical side of mountaineering.
Seth Maciejowski - Oct 14, 2005 4:58 pm
Route Climbed: Ingraham Glacier Date Climbed: July 2000An interesting Climb, but a little long and tedious above dissappointment cleaver. Put your head down and go. Also get down early to avoid rockfall.
iceisnice - Oct 3, 2005 10:36 pm
Route Climbed: Gibraltar ledges Date Climbed: Nov '99Crazy winter climb. It was way above my head at the time.
Franko1946 - Oct 2, 2005 11:02 pm
Route Climbed: Emmons Date Climbed: July 1978Planned to climb it since the first time I saw it (1951, 4 years old). Was a gunea pig for one of Larry Penberthy's altitude sickness experiments.
Brian Frederick - Sep 29, 2005 9:49 pm
Route Climbed: Ingraham glacier/disappointment cleaver Date Climbed: july 1979My partner and I joined up with another team of 2 to make it safer. Made the top from Muir hut during a slim weather window between 2 storms. Fantastic mountain!
Kerstin - Sep 28, 2005 1:11 am
Route Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver Date Climbed: August 21, 1986We arrived in Paradise on the 19th and decided on a spur-of-the-moment climb. The same day we headed up and camped on the snowfield after the big warning sign. The next day we headed up to Camp Muir. At 1:30am on the 21st we set out for the summit. I remember being very nervous. It was my first time on a heavily glaciated mountain and my first time above 11,000 feet. As we approached the top of the Cleaver, our flashlight's bulb burned out. Luckily there was a big moon to light the rest of the way. We made it to the top just after dawn. There was no wind or clouds and there were supremely great views. On the descent, coming around the base of the Cleaver, we had to run over verglassed pumice to escape heavy rockfall--it was a terrifying close call. All in all, a great experience but draining due to the dangerous conditions.