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gimpilatorHigh Winds  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2006


This is my second time reaching the summit. Our party of 11, led by by Bill Link, ascended the Emmons route spending the first and second night at Emmons flats. There were several large rockfalls sloughing off of little Tahoma throughout the second day. By 12:15 AM on July 17 we we roped up and began the final push. The crevasses were all open and visible making for easy navigation.

Around 12,000 feet the wind began to pick up whipping down from the summit. It got stronger, the closer we got. When we came into view of the crater rim, gusts were blowing bits of ice and snow out over the edge of the bowl at 40+ mph. At this point two of our rope teams decided to turn back. Our rope of 3 continued up and along the ridge. One blast of 55 mph or so sent me flying off my feet onto the rocks. Walking was only possible while leaning far over to the side. It made for some wild fun.

Less rockfall danger than the DC route but many more crevasses and snowbridge crossings.
Posted Jul 18, 2006 4:28 pm

rkymtnRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006


This was the icing on the cake after finishing my 13-day alpine climbing course with Mountain Madness. Haliku, Axe, and Old Guide flew out to meet me in Seattle after my course, so we could attempt this together. Old Guide stayed at Camp Muir while the rest of us made our summit bid. The weather couldn’t have been better and I was thrilled to take in the views from the summit. I’m so glad the guys came out for this!
7/14/11 - Made a really good attempt in marginal weather with my wife and chicagotransplant. Unfortunately, we had to turn back short of the summit. It was, however, beautiful between the storm up high and the rain/snow mix at Muir.
Posted Jul 17, 2006 6:34 pm

HalikuDisappointment Cleaver  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2006


My fourth visit to the mountain. I climbed with Axe, Old Guide and rkymtn. We left Camp Muir at midnight and returned successful 11 hours later. The route was straight forward and in good condition.

We also ran into gurlyclimber, chicagotransplant and their friend Jody making the trip an accidental Summitpost gathering.

25 Sept 2003

My third visit to Rainier. Dad's goal during his 50's was to summit. Attempt #1 saw me on the top and Dad having turned around. On attempt #2 my brother Axe and I were turned around at 13,200 due to conditions. Dad didn't make it this year. Attempt #3 saw all three of us on the mountain. We woke up at dawn to high winds on the Ingraham flats. We decided to give it a go and enjoyed gusting winds that played with us by grabbing our packs and twisting us around or trying to knock us off the path and bridges. Fighting the wind drained us all more than the climb demands normally. Shortly before noon we made it to the crater rim and soon on the crest. Well Dad got his wish and we all got the mountaineering bug. Thanks Dad!
Posted Jul 17, 2006 6:30 pm

AnnekaDC  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2006


Beautiful weather, fun, fairly easy climb. Climbed it with Dad; what an awesome experience. I got to play mountain guide on this trip, since I was the only experienced climber in our group of 4 men ages 28-58, and me (19 year old woman). Funny combination. Everyone did great.

The Tetons have greatly changed what I view as steep. I expected this to be way harder than it turned out to be, and therefore it seemed very easy!

Now if I could only convince Dad to let me take him up the Grand....
Posted Jul 15, 2006 5:05 am

fieldbioTahoma Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2006


Posted Jul 14, 2006 5:18 pm

rhyangKautz Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2006


Climbed with Mark under pretty much perfect conditions - a very lucky weather window.

Approached from Paradise on Friday via the lower Nisqually and Wilson glaciers (the Fan looked like it had a lot of debris in it) and camped around 10300' on the western edge of the Turtle.

Got a 4am start on Saturday, reached 11000' by 5 where we found ropes slung around boulders to descend to the start of the Kautz (about 20' drop down and then a traverse across gully below the ice cliff). Lower pitch was still just hard snow - easy to climb & descend. Second pitch was exposed glacier ice, nice and solid for screws, but took picks & points well. We pitched out this section, perhaps 40m of ice at around 40-50 degrees at most ? Lots of options for fun here - many good features to rest on and multiple variations. I led this pitch with about 3-4 screws (22cm) and basically went straight up the most obvious line.

Continued on up to Wapowety Cleaver and from there on to the summit crater, atop the summit by around 10:45am. There were some nice deep crevasses to cross, but good snowbridges and nothing really wide yet. The upper part from the top of the second pitch on to the summit was pretty well flagged with an easy-to-follow boot track.

The descent was the crux - back at the ice pitch we found an anchor in snow just above (probably buried pickets). This turned out to be about 75m from the base, and we only had a single 50m rope, so we rapped three times, using some Ti leaver screws (probably not very secure) and an ice pinnacle (bomber) as anchors. Probably could have made a couple of v-threads, but I was a bit worried about that with all the water running down the ice in the afternoon (probably a toss-up with the leaver screws though).

Returned to camp in the afternoon and decided to stay an extra night and hike out Sunday, which started out a bit windier and cloudier, but got hot and sunny down low.

Recommended eats in Ashford: Highlander Restaurant :)

July, 2005: attempted the Emmons route with a fairly weak team and poor weather. Took a long time to get up the Inter glacier and dragged into Camp Schurman, where we spent the night in a storm and then turned around the next day. The most fun part though was the 3rd class choss scramble down to the Emmons glacier from Camp Curtis (the "climber's trail" we'd read about was apparently in bad shape).
Posted Jul 11, 2006 12:39 am

monealDC up / Ingraham Direct down  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2006


Summited with RMI on 6/19/06. Beautiful weather/conditions above 8,000 ft albeit cold on the upper mountain. We were fortunate and only had 9 people in our group. The hut was downright luxurious with so few people. We were the first people to summit today after passing many groups. Take that all you non-guided climbers. ;)

Posted Jul 10, 2006 10:18 pm

IdaClimberWow, Success!!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2006
I cannot believe I did it. This mountin is huge!!!
Posted Jul 10, 2006 9:17 pm

BalletBoyRouted Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2006


I flew from Colorado to Seattle on the 28th to meet up with a group of 7 from Utah. Took the remainder of the the day to get to Camp Muir. At Camp Muir we rested on Thursday the 29th and then began our Summit bid on the 30th at 12:40am. The weather was perfect and very warm. We had to leave a little early due to the soft snow conditions. What a beautiful mountain and a great view and experience. See my Pics by clicking on my profile.
Posted Jul 8, 2006 8:53 pm

brusyFuhrer's Finger
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006


Descended via DC, couldn't find the other way in white out...
Would never do it again though.
Posted Jul 8, 2006 3:52 am

tjbst47emmons glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006


Went up Emmons glacier. Mostly selected our own path below bergschrund (~13,200 ft). Above this, a path was beaten in and heaviley wanded to summit, which allowed us to make it in whiteout conditions. Too bad I missed the views, ~30 m visibility.
Posted Jul 7, 2006 7:43 pm

daverobbWinthrop Glacier / Upper Emmons Variation  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006


Finally kicked her in the nards! Third times a charm. High winds and low visibilty on the summit day, but went off without a hitch. Linked up an alternate variation below the seracs on emmons and up the winthrop ridge then connected back up with the upper emmons below the bergschrund.
Posted Jul 7, 2006 12:59 am

Joseph BulloughLiberty Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006

Joseph Bullough

Made a quick hike into Glacier Basin on 6/30, then a strenuous 9-hour day under perfect blue skies to the bivy site at Thumb Rock on 7/1. Summit day on 7/2 began clear but we became enveloped in clouds on the upper ridge, and navigated to the summit in near-zero visibility conditions by map/GPS. As Brian said, this is an incredible route which fully lives up to its classic reputation.
Posted Jul 6, 2006 1:39 pm

dunsumLiberty Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006


Incredible route; fully deserving of its classic reputation. Climbed with Joe Bullough June 30th to July 2nd. The lower portion of the route, up to Thumb Rock, is suffering from the summer's heat and some snow bridges are near failure, but the upper route is in fine shape and the climbing excellent. We topped out in whiteout conditions and had to navigate the summit and the descent by map and GPS.
Posted Jul 6, 2006 2:58 am

RModelliwin/emmons summit
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006


great climb. no views on the summit, white out conditions. Great!
Posted Jul 4, 2006 7:17 pm

swampclimberDC  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2005


Two day ascent of the DC. Beautiful weather.
Posted Jul 4, 2006 6:06 pm

maraudersRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006


Summited with a great group of climbing buddies. Great weather and breathtaking scenery. Some slow groups caused a bottleneck at the cleaver because each person was clipping into a fixed line. We wasted an hour waiting behind them, so when they rested at the top of the cleaver we were able to get past them. Other than that frustration, the climb was tons of fun. My first time in glacier terrain. I loved it. I plan on returning to Rainier often to try other routes.
Posted Jul 3, 2006 5:06 pm

climbhighnowLiberty Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2006


kick ass cimb! man what a route, long sustained FUN climbing. weather was clear, sort of warm which meant some serious rock fall (mostly down low). the upper ridge was in great Alpine Ice shape and seemed to just keep going on forever. super classic! calve burner!
Posted Jul 1, 2006 3:14 am

shknbkevia Emmons Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2006


Climbed Rainier via the easier Emmons Glacier, but it is a serious haul with 10600' of vertical! Weather was perfect other than high winds up high. Crevasse danger was minimal early in the season. It took us 7.5 hrs to reach the crater rim from Schurman, a serious calf burner!
Posted Jun 27, 2006 6:09 pm

pjc30943DC up, Ingraham down  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2006
There are some mighty big seracs on this mountain:)
Very nice snow conditions; weather was flawless as well [aside from high winds near the summit]. Someone just in front of us fell about 20 ft into a crevasse while we were descending Ingraham. Plunged to the tune of no serious injuries fortunately, as his fall was arrested by his veteran-climber brother, and rescue was facilitated by several groups of canadians.
Posted Jun 27, 2006 5:51 am

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