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rhyangKautz Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2006

rhyang

Climbed with Mark under pretty much perfect conditions - a very lucky weather window.

Approached from Paradise on Friday via the lower Nisqually and Wilson glaciers (the Fan looked like it had a lot of debris in it) and camped around 10300' on the western edge of the Turtle.

Got a 4am start on Saturday, reached 11000' by 5 where we found ropes slung around boulders to descend to the start of the Kautz (about 20' drop down and then a traverse across gully below the ice cliff). Lower pitch was still just hard snow - easy to climb & descend. Second pitch was exposed glacier ice, nice and solid for screws, but took picks & points well. We pitched out this section, perhaps 40m of ice at around 40-50 degrees at most ? Lots of options for fun here - many good features to rest on and multiple variations. I led this pitch with about 3-4 screws (22cm) and basically went straight up the most obvious line.

Continued on up to Wapowety Cleaver and from there on to the summit crater, atop the summit by around 10:45am. There were some nice deep crevasses to cross, but good snowbridges and nothing really wide yet. The upper part from the top of the second pitch on to the summit was pretty well flagged with an easy-to-follow boot track.

The descent was the crux - back at the ice pitch we found an anchor in snow just above (probably buried pickets). This turned out to be about 75m from the base, and we only had a single 50m rope, so we rapped three times, using some Ti leaver screws (probably not very secure) and an ice pinnacle (bomber) as anchors. Probably could have made a couple of v-threads, but I was a bit worried about that with all the water running down the ice in the afternoon (probably a toss-up with the leaver screws though).

Returned to camp in the afternoon and decided to stay an extra night and hike out Sunday, which started out a bit windier and cloudier, but got hot and sunny down low.

Recommended eats in Ashford: Highlander Restaurant :)
--

July, 2005: attempted the Emmons route with a fairly weak team and poor weather. Took a long time to get up the Inter glacier and dragged into Camp Schurman, where we spent the night in a storm and then turned around the next day. The most fun part though was the 3rd class choss scramble down to the Emmons glacier from Camp Curtis (the "climber's trail" we'd read about was apparently in bad shape).
Posted Jul 11, 2006 12:39 am

monealDC up / Ingraham Direct down  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2006

moneal

Summited with RMI on 6/19/06. Beautiful weather/conditions above 8,000 ft albeit cold on the upper mountain. We were fortunate and only had 9 people in our group. The hut was downright luxurious with so few people. We were the first people to summit today after passing many groups. Take that all you non-guided climbers. ;)

http://mconeal11.tripod.com/hoodrainier3.html
Posted Jul 10, 2006 10:18 pm

IdaClimberWow, Success!!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2006
I cannot believe I did it. This mountin is huge!!!
Posted Jul 10, 2006 9:17 pm

BalletBoyRouted Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2006

BalletBoy

I flew from Colorado to Seattle on the 28th to meet up with a group of 7 from Utah. Took the remainder of the the day to get to Camp Muir. At Camp Muir we rested on Thursday the 29th and then began our Summit bid on the 30th at 12:40am. The weather was perfect and very warm. We had to leave a little early due to the soft snow conditions. What a beautiful mountain and a great view and experience. See my Pics by clicking on my profile.
Posted Jul 8, 2006 8:53 pm

brusyFuhrer's Finger
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006

brusy

Descended via DC, couldn't find the other way in white out...
Would never do it again though.
Posted Jul 8, 2006 3:52 am

tjbst47emmons glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2006

tjbst47

Went up Emmons glacier. Mostly selected our own path below bergschrund (~13,200 ft). Above this, a path was beaten in and heaviley wanded to summit, which allowed us to make it in whiteout conditions. Too bad I missed the views, ~30 m visibility.
Posted Jul 7, 2006 7:43 pm

daverobbWinthrop Glacier / Upper Emmons Variation  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006

daverobb

Finally kicked her in the nards! Third times a charm. High winds and low visibilty on the summit day, but went off without a hitch. Linked up an alternate variation below the seracs on emmons and up the winthrop ridge then connected back up with the upper emmons below the bergschrund.
Posted Jul 7, 2006 12:59 am

Joseph BulloughLiberty Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006

Joseph Bullough

Made a quick hike into Glacier Basin on 6/30, then a strenuous 9-hour day under perfect blue skies to the bivy site at Thumb Rock on 7/1. Summit day on 7/2 began clear but we became enveloped in clouds on the upper ridge, and navigated to the summit in near-zero visibility conditions by map/GPS. As Brian said, this is an incredible route which fully lives up to its classic reputation.
Posted Jul 6, 2006 1:39 pm

dunsumLiberty Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006

dunsum

Incredible route; fully deserving of its classic reputation. Climbed with Joe Bullough June 30th to July 2nd. The lower portion of the route, up to Thumb Rock, is suffering from the summer's heat and some snow bridges are near failure, but the upper route is in fine shape and the climbing excellent. We topped out in whiteout conditions and had to navigate the summit and the descent by map and GPS.
Posted Jul 6, 2006 2:58 am

RModelliwin/emmons summit
Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2006

RModelli

great climb. no views on the summit, white out conditions. Great!
Posted Jul 4, 2006 7:17 pm

swampclimberDC  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2005

swampclimber

Two day ascent of the DC. Beautiful weather.
Posted Jul 4, 2006 6:06 pm

maraudersRoute Climbed: Disappointment Cleaver  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006

marauders

Summited with a great group of climbing buddies. Great weather and breathtaking scenery. Some slow groups caused a bottleneck at the cleaver because each person was clipping into a fixed line. We wasted an hour waiting behind them, so when they rested at the top of the cleaver we were able to get past them. Other than that frustration, the climb was tons of fun. My first time in glacier terrain. I loved it. I plan on returning to Rainier often to try other routes.
Posted Jul 3, 2006 5:06 pm

climbhighnowLiberty Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2006

climbhighnow

kick ass cimb! man what a route, long sustained FUN climbing. weather was clear, sort of warm which meant some serious rock fall (mostly down low). the upper ridge was in great Alpine Ice shape and seemed to just keep going on forever. super classic! calve burner!
Posted Jul 1, 2006 3:14 am

shknbkevia Emmons Glacier  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2006

shknbke

Climbed Rainier via the easier Emmons Glacier, but it is a serious haul with 10600' of vertical! Weather was perfect other than high winds up high. Crevasse danger was minimal early in the season. It took us 7.5 hrs to reach the crater rim from Schurman, a serious calf burner!
Posted Jun 27, 2006 6:09 pm

pjc30943DC up, Ingraham down  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2006
There are some mighty big seracs on this mountain:)
Very nice snow conditions; weather was flawless as well [aside from high winds near the summit]. Someone just in front of us fell about 20 ft into a crevasse while we were descending Ingraham. Plunged to the tune of no serious injuries fortunately, as his fall was arrested by his veteran-climber brother, and rescue was facilitated by several groups of canadians.
Posted Jun 27, 2006 5:51 am

rockrat2Disapointment Cleaver  Sucess!

rockrat2

Climbed it in two days, no guide. Fun route but too much traffic. Will pick less travelled route on next trip. Awesome scenery.
Posted Jun 20, 2006 2:57 am

GMatthewsDisapointment Cleaver  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2006

GMatthews

I went on the 5 day RMI camp Muir seminar. It was great fun and we had some really great guides. It took are group a just under 11 hours roundtrip from camp Muir to reach columbia crest
(4,392M) summit. This was a great trip.
Posted Jun 19, 2006 1:32 am

sierramtngoatDisappointment Cleaver
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2001

sierramtngoat

Straight up, I will never again climb with RMI. I'm not sure what is more stupid, sending an unscreened team of newbies up a scree pile in crampons, or doubling the pace at 13,000 ft. to make up for lost time. Needless to say, no one on my rope summitted, but I did get the satisfaction of seeing our "leader" fall on his face down-climbing the scree I questioned him on going up. What a bone head operation. I would have easily summitted had he not changed the pace after everyone else had dropped off; in hind-sight, I think he did it on purpose so we wouldn't be just two on a rope.
Posted Jun 16, 2006 8:06 am

thenunzWhere's the sumitt?  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2006

thenunz

See Michael's comments below.
Posted Jun 9, 2006 3:58 am

iwlclmeverestBlast  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2003

iwlclmeverest

It could be a difficult climb, but we were blessed with great perfect conditions and fun people. Great climb.
Posted Jun 6, 2006 5:18 pm

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